Hitachi M12V Parts list ? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
Default Hitachi M12V Parts list ?

Any body know where I can download the parts list pdf file? can't find the original manual or the link.
Thanks
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 03:07 PM
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Hi Router

Here's what you need
------
look down on the side,left hand bottom of the web page and you will see it listed I did post the other ones , but the manual is over 2MB, and the forum will not take it in that size...2mb max.


http://www.hitachipowertools.ca/en/P...pid=235&new=50

======

Quote:
Originally Posted by Router is still my name
Any body know where I can download the parts list pdf file? can't find the original manual or the link.
Thanks


Attached Files
File Type: pdf HITACHI%20M12V2%20template.pdf (15.3 KB, 111 views)
File Type: pdf M12V2_BD_7892.pdf (313.8 KB, 188 views)

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Bj

I'm sure the parts will cost more than I paid for this router. I bought it new for
120 and now they are 320.
go figure, I should've got two of them.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 04:22 PM
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HI Router
One of the members just got a great deal at Lowes,I think it was 80.oo and one that was out of the box but with all the parts for 50.oo bucks...but he didn't buy both.. 3 or 4 days back I think...

I don't recall of the top of my head who it was but I wil dig for it if you want me to, I sure they are gone by now but it may give you a way to get one at a great price..
BUT b/4 I go on the hunt may I ask what part is bad or broke, I have fixed many routers....

Sometimes it's quicker to make your own part and a bit less money..

Give me the part number and I will take a look at it on the PDF file..



===========
Quote:
Originally Posted by Router is still my name
Thanks Bj

I'm sure the parts will cost more than I paid for this router. I bought it new for
120 and now they are 320.
go figure, I should've got two of them.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 10-06-2007 at 04:36 PM.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Well since I always use my Dewalt and mostly use the Hitachi for hand held, I canít believe when I got this router I never bothered checking the base rods/plunge accuracy with respect to the base. Well I had to do few joining operation on 1 inch wood this week and noticed the router bit is not 100% perpendicular to the base. After closer examination I noticed that when you plunge the router all the way down, on one side there is a gap.Also there's a difference between the distance from the top of the rods to the bottom of the rods. It seems that one of the plunge rods; the longer one is slightly off. And thereís a pin in there that holds it in the base and not an Allen screw so Iím not sure how to remove it or replace it.
The base is #61
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 09:07 PM
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Hi Router

Many use a roll pin,,some use a small drive pin, take a Small drill bit or wire and see if you can push it in the hole, if it goes in it's roll in, you will need a small drive punch to drive it out,it must be the right size ( the same as the OD of the roll pin) the norm is about 1/8" (metric suff) BUT IT MUST BE THE RIGHT SIZE ,you don't want to stake it in place..if you don't have the right size use a old drill pit backwards, but with care the drill bit is hard and will break easy..the best way to use the dill bit way is to drill a hole with the drill bit in some scrap stock about 1 1/4 long this will give you a handle and a safe guard if the bit breaks...if you have a grinder ,grind the back end of the drill bit flat,you don't want to go inside of the roll pin..

Then just TAP it out, just a bit but not all the way,so you have about 1/8" of the pin in the hole, then remove the rod and repair the rod..use thin washer to get them the same,,,it can be gasket stock,sheet metal, what ever you have around..gasket punchs work well to make the hole in the shim stock.


By the way the snapshot of the parts break down you posted is not the same one as I posted... did you look at that one ?




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Last edited by bobj3; 10-06-2007 at 09:14 PM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Bj,
The one you posted is for M12V2 the new router. I have the original M12v. I found the link for it.

http://www.hitachipowertools.ca/en/P...cat=46&pid=108

With regard to the pin, Unfortunately, the pin hole is not through as is on my Dewalt so it canít be knocked through. It has to be drilled out or something.
This router has a 5 year warranty on it. I have to see if they will replace the base for free or else I have to get a used one and hope the base is 100%.
I canít believe I never checked this. Usually, thatís a first thing I look for in a router. Man o man did I blow it.
Any way, I havenít seen one of these at Lows or even on eBay in a long time. They only sell the V2 now.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 09:34 PM
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Hi Router

Hold for just a bit ,, I will go out into the shop and check the one I have.


=========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Router is still my name
Thanks Bj,
The one you posted is for M12V2 the new router. I have the original M12v. I found the link for it.

http://www.hitachipowertools.ca/en/P...cat=46&pid=108

With regard to the pin, Unfortunately, the pin hole is not through as is on my Dewalt so it canít be knocked through. It has to be drilled out or something.
This router has a 5 year warranty on it. I have to see if they will replace the base for free or else I have to get a used one and hope the base is 100%.
I canít believe I never checked this. Usually, thatís a first thing I look for in a router. Man o man did I blow it.
Any way, I havenít seen one of these at Lows or even on eBay in a long time. They only sell the V2 now.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 09:53 PM
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Hi Router

It's roll pin,, it's one that tricky to get out because you can't drive it out, you will need to pull it out,, take a #39 or #40 drill bit and tap it in to the roll pin,, the drill flute must slide in the slot of the roll pin, drive it in about 1/2" or so then take a pair of vise grips and hook on to the drill then with a SMALL hammer tap on the vise grips, it will take a bit to get it to move out but once you have it out by 1/4" put the vise grips on the pin then tap on the vise grips again.

They can't be drilled out the norm they are spring steel and as hard as the drill bit..the norm. drill bit will just break off because of the slot in the roll pin,, it takes a bit to get this type out...but once you do drill the hole all the way b/4 you put a NEW roll pin back in... for a 5 cents part it's a pain.

NOTE ROUTER

It may not need to be removed, you may just need to rework the springs..

see how below
http://www.routerworkshop.com/mark1.html?list=me01--

===========




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Last edited by bobj3; 10-06-2007 at 10:30 PM.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Well Bj, if I can't get a replacment base then I'll have to do it the hard way.

see the gap in the picture where the ruller is? that translates to 1/64" angle when joining 1" thick wood.
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