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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Recently, in another thread about the blade on my BS, the subject of coplanar of the wheels came up and was discussed. There seemed to be two opinions on whether or not the wheels need to be be in coplanar. Some said yes, some said no.

I finally was able to get in touch with Grizzly Tech Support and asked them about it.

About all that the guy that I talked to had to say is that there is no need to wroory about coplanar as long as the teeth on the blade are riding someplace on the tires and not making contact with the metal wheel, duh, is that right?. That sure did not sound like the issue on coplanar is much of a deal from his stand point. Maybe I was talking to the janitor and not a real tech support person, only kidding of course, but it does make me wonder.

He and I talked about my problem with breaking blades, then I talked to the tech at Lenox and in both cases the only possible reason for breaking blades, according the both of the people that I talked to is, if the saw is set up right is the issue of tension. The guy at Lenox didn't have a clue about how to set the tension without a a tension gauge. He just said that with a gauge that 30,000 lbs. of tension of the Tri Master blade was maximum. That doesn't mean much to me without a gauge of course.

So, and now I'm joking again, I need to buy half a dozen inexpensive blades and install one of them on the saw and run it until it either breaks or becomes dull at which time if it breaks, I would put on another blade and reduce the tension. If the second blade breaks, put on another blade and reduce the tension. Keep doing that until the tension is so loose that the blade won't continue to cut straight or stay on the wheels. That's if I don't run out of blades first. If the blades still break, I'll know that something else is wrong. There seems to be no way to know other that. Yeah, I know, I'm just being a tad sarcastic, the outcome of a being frustrated with the issue I suppose.

The truth is, I really think that I have the saw set up properly now with the right tension on the blade and I will be surprised if I have any more trouble with it. If this is true, I will have gained just a little more knowledge about band saws that will have come from personal experience.

Jerry
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 04:14 PM
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bowen View Post
About all that the guy that I talked to had to say is that there is no need to wroory about coplanar as long as the teeth on the blade are riding someplace on the tires and not making contact with the metal wheel, duh, is that right?.
Jerry
According to Alex Snodgrass in his band saw tune up clip, Band saw tuneup the teeth should not be riding on the tires as that can flatten the teeth. The should be just a bit forward of the tire.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 11:45 PM
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Jerry my neighbor said his dad has some HUGE bandsaw that he wants to sell . After reading all the issues with these things I didn't even bother checking it out . I never knew those wheels wore out etc . Seems like there's a lot to go wrong

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 01:16 AM
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Jerry, my first thought was the Alex Snodgrass video referred to by Brian. He states in his video many important aspects of setting up the bandsaw. He mentions that the blade should NOT be centered on the wheel. He says the deepest part of the gullet (space in between the teeth) should be centered on the wheel. So the teeth ARE to ride on the wheel with the gullet in the center of the tire. If the teeth are off the wheel, they will be damaged.

Regarding tension, he explains that the saw blade should deflect only 1/8" with the TAP of your finger. This is without the guide wheels touching the blade.

Regarding coplaner, he says NOT to try to adjust the wheels for coplaner. Leave it as factory set. If you have trouble, call the bandsaw manufacturer.

Please watch the video to which Brian provided the link.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 04:46 AM
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Looks like a blade tensioning gauge from eBay, jerry....

I agree however that there is a lot of contradictorily advice out there...

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 06:29 AM
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I have watched the Snodgrass viedo ( he is a master) but beware. I tried to set my Shopsmith bandsaw up the way he described and I could not get a straight cut was all over. Revisted the Shopsmith instruction, there is a track bearing that the back of the blade must ride on. When set per the Shopsmith way and with a Highland Woodworking 1/2" woodslicer it resaws great.
Read you saws manual to understand what the manafacturer intended
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 06:51 AM
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John, Alex is a very knowledgeable guy but I don't think he recognizes our SS Band saws as real band saws.


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I have watched the Snodgrass viedo ( he is a master) but beware. I tried to set my Shopsmith bandsaw up the way he described and I could not get a straight cut was all over. Revisted the Shopsmith instruction, there is a track bearing that the back of the blade must ride on. When set per the Shopsmith way and with a Highland Woodworking 1/2" woodslicer it resaws great.
Read you saws manual to understand what the manafacturer intended

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting how much variations there are in the thinking about the set up of something that should be simple and straight forward as setting up a BS.

What I got from Alex's instructions is that with the bottom of the gullet of the blade being centered on the top tire that this arrangement support the teeth so that they are not hanging out with no support.

One point that I had to make an adjustment to that I had not done was to set the guide bearins so that the front of them extend to a point 1/16" behind the bottom of the gullet. I had this setting right at the bottom of the gullet not that short distance back. Doesn't sound like muct but it was a point that I had missed.

Then the issue of "tapping" the blade with one's finger. To me that is not an exact description, what I call a tap may not be what Alex calls a tap, sooo, once again with out a gauge it's a guess in my opinion and subject to being the culprit in the whole issue and certainly a good chance that it is the most critical part of the set up as the setting of both the guide bearings and the thurst bearings can be set with out any guessing. The proper setting of all of the bearing can be verified, but not so of the tension setting, it's still a guess and by golly issue without a gauge in my opinion and is where the potential problem resides. Those guys that say that they have never broken a blade, just got lucky in their method of setting the tension and onece they hit that sweet spot and were able to duplicate what they had done from blade change to blade change just don't know how "lucky" they were and no matter how hard they try to communicate what they do to help others it's impossible to do. A person has to find it for them selves. At least this is the conclusion that I have come to which is, in my opinion, a good one and makes sense to me.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 09:29 AM
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As said by "John60": sometimes the manufacturer manual is our best friend!
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