Mike is right .090 should work with most thin kerf 10" blades.
Don't force a larger riving knife to become a wedge, and force the kerf apart... nothing good will come of that!
This becomes a problem when using smaller blades. I frequently use a 7 1/4 or 8 inch really thin blade(about .067"). Works well but not compatible with most riving knives. But, with many of the small pieces I use, it really reduces stock waste. I like CMT blades for this purpose.
For most other general purpose cutting on larger stock, I use a Freud 50 tooth combo blade. Sometimes full 1/8" kerf sometimes thin kerf. With modern blades, I don't see much if any difference in cut quality. 24 years or so ago thin kerf blades had noticeable runout/wobble issues. Don't really see that any more as long as you buy a reasonable quality blade.
The riving knife should be several(maybe 10) thousands narrower than the kerf.
A short fence will really help with the kickback issue when a riving knife can't be used. The wood won't bind where there is no fence to trap it!
I have found that hand tools are the best choice when I want to make mistakes at a slower rate of speed.
I don't suffer from insanity. I enjoy every minute of it.