General purpose table saw blade - Router Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-10-2015, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Default General purpose table saw blade

I have a Dewalt DWE7480 job site saw. As a hobbyist, I work almost exclusively with hard woods except for pine and MDf for jigs. Most of the wood I cut is under 1" thick but with cutting boards I can go over 1 1/2 inches.

I have a Dewalt 24 tooth thin kerf blade that came with the saw. I bought a Freud Diablo 60 tooth thin kerf from HD. The 24 tooth leaves a rough edge which is fine for rough cuts or breaking down larger boards or panels. The 60 tooth does a decent job crosscutting but doesn't work well as a general purpose blade. When I rip lumber with the 60 tooth it frequently leaves burn marks regardless of the feed rate. I've been doing a lot of reading on line and most of the recommendations say that I should have a 40 tooth, thin kerf, Hi-ATB for a general purpose blade. I then read some reviews that say the more expensive blades are well worth the difference in cost due to the quality of the cut which saves additional milling steps. The prices vary widely. For example, on Amazon the price of a Freud Diablo 10-inch, 40 tooth, ATB, thin kerf is about $30. The Freud P410T 10-Inch by 40-Teeth 30-Degree Hi-ATB Premier Fusion Thin Kerf goes for almost $75. That's a big difference but if it reduces burning and additional planning it could well be worth it. So, the question is, at well over twice the price, is it worth it? Does anyone have any experience with both lower priced and higher priced blades and seen a difference that's worth the price? One additional note, the very high priced blades, that go for over $100 are out of my price range.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-10-2015, 10:56 AM
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Barry; whichever blade you choose, it's probably fair comment to note that the original factory sharpening isn't necessarily the best possible honing job. That is to say that if you have a good blade/bit sharpening shop available to you, the performance, after they've worked their magic, will be substantially better than new.
I expect to pay in the range of $80 to $100 for a decent 10" blade. That doesn't mean that they're the best...I'm not running a commercial cabinet shop. Everyone has a budget.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-10-2015, 02:31 PM
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A thicker saw blade may give better performance as it is less like to wander. I'm not particularly a believer in one blade for all jobs. By definition they are a compromise between all jobs. You do get what you pay for from my experience.

One thing to watch for on 60 tooth and plus blades is that some are only designed for a 1" cut depth. This might be the reason you are getting burning. I have a Freud 18 tooth rip blade that is guaranteed to make a glue line cut and it does a pretty smooth job. It was around $105 at the time.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 06:59 AM
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I am using an Irwin Marples 50T Combination blade and it is great. Clean cuts and no wandering. Price is reasonable; about $45.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 09:04 AM
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I am using an Irwin Marples 50T Combination blade and it is great. Clean cuts and no wandering. Price is reasonable; about $45.
+1 What he said.

The Marples blade works pretty well.

I also have a cheep 24T thin kerf blade from the big box store that I use for ripping stock to rough widths. like you said, it also leaves marks but that is OK by me. The stock will end up on the jointer anyway.

And I have a Freud glue line rip blade also. It makes a smooth, clean rip.

Hope this helps.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 10:04 AM
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Barry,
Our late good friend Dick Willis told me that he just used inexpensive $20 blades. When they became dull, he just bought new ones. As I recall they were the Marples brand. I tried one of them, a thin kerf blade and it seemed to work as well as my full kerf combination Forrester $120 blade. However, I simply put in the saw to try it but then after doing so, I put the full kerf combination blade back on.

Jerry
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Barry; whichever blade you choose, it's probably fair comment to note that the original factory sharpening isn't necessarily the best possible honing job. That is to say that if you have a good blade/bit sharpening shop available to you, the performance, after they've worked their magic, will be substantially better than new.
I expect to pay in the range of $80 to $100 for a decent 10" blade. That doesn't mean that they're the best...I'm not running a commercial cabinet shop. Everyone has a budget.
Dan,
I recently had my Forrest blade re-worked by Forrest. Do you think that your comment on factory sharpening is applicable to that company and if not, who would suggest if you think that the blade could be touched up after leaving Forrest's shop.

I can't be sure but it does seem that the blade is not as sharp as it was when it was new, however it is satisfactory, but your comment did get my attention.

Jerry
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 01:48 PM
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Hi,

I have a freud glueline rip blade that needed sharpened. I took it to a tool sharpening place and he gave it back with mirror polished teeth. It now cuts so smooth that oak seems like pine. I highly recommend finding a good sharpening service close to where you live, mine services factories as well as wood butchers like me. Everything I take him comes back performing better than new.

Wayne
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 02:13 PM
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynecochran View Post
Hi,

I have a freud glueline rip blade that needed sharpened. I took it to a tool sharpening place and he gave it back with mirror polished teeth. It now cuts so smooth that oak seems like pine. I highly recommend finding a good sharpening service close to where you live, mine services factories as well as wood butchers like me. Everything I take him comes back performing better than new.

Wayne
Where does this guy live. To get good service I'd spring for the postage.

Jerry
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