Anyone use a Festool track saw ? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Default Anyone use a Festool track saw ?

Although Makita is a great option I have my heart set on Festool , so I was hoping someone here used a Festool track saw .
I just about bought one today and there vacuum also , as I have there 1400 series router .
They have both track saws in stock , the 55 and the 75 . The 55 is about $150 cheaper , so that's not a concern between choosing between the two of them , but my concern is power. I think most of my cutting will be mdf ,occasionally 1" mdf at the thickest .

On Amazon, some reviews had people complaining about the 55's power as I guess is bogs down a bit . When you put the two track saws side by side though , the 75 feels like a boat anchor as its frigging big . The 75 comes with a longer track which is nice , but the blade is a little thicker so I'm not liking that .
But it has a 13 amp motor as opposed to a 10 amp motor in the 55 . I guess seeing as the 55 has a smaller blade they should seem similar power wise?

One guy mentioned if you had to cut a section off a door that the 75 was the better choice.

Track Saw TS 55 REQ Plunge Cut Track Saw 561556 - Festool Power Tools

Track Saw TS 75 EQ Plunge Cut Track Saw 561438 - Festool Power Tools

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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 04:10 PM
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Ok so maybe not the best review but I'll have a go.

I have quite recently bought a Festool TS 55REQ track/plungesaw.
I've been thinking of getting one for years now and could never justify the hefty pricetag, then Festool were fined 8.2 million Euros for price fixing and that now means that in Europe at least the dealers can set their own prices...

That meant there were better deals on their products, that coupled to me getting some tax back this year and not having to spend it on paying the mortgage meant I was in the market for a plungesaw.

Initially I opted for the saw and one 1400 guiderail in the kit which cost me 355, plus I got the 1080 rail, thinking that 1400mm plus 1080 = 2480mm is more than the 2440 (8' plywood sheets) that are the mainstay of my cutting needs.
Anyone who has a plungesaw will be shaking their heads now because as soon as I got the saw and read the instructions I realised that I needed more length of rail for that eight foot cut as the adjusters on the saw baseplate BOTH need to be on the rail at the start and the end of the cut.
It is possible to get a 2700mm guiderail and if I was workshop based I'd do that for rips but I'm not and 2700 is a bit long for the van.
I use my six foot level as a straight edge when I'm setting the two guiderails up together but basically they just butt together and I tighten the grubscrews on the joining bar things. Its been spot on every time I've set them up but I always check anyway.

So, I kept the 1400 and bought another 1400 rail, this time I bought the LR32 rail with the holes as I eventually plan on using that to place shelf brackets using my router. Also I kept the 1080 rail because its a nice size for cutting the bottoms off doors.

In use the saw is exemplary, first things I used it for were a few doors where the rooms had been carpeted and they just needed the bottoms trimmed, no bother at all and where the splinterguard goes to, it cuts to.

Then the next job was on some showerboard, not sure if you have used it but its plywood with a waterproof facing on it. Usually to look like marble. Its very splitty stuff and I was cutting it face up so the sawblade was lifting that hard laminated facing away from the plywood.
Again the cut was perfect on the good side and the waste side cut was almost perfect. As yet I've never needed the guard for the waste side fitted but its in the box for when I need it.

Then the next job was in a very large open plan office setting.
The place had underfloor heating laid underneath chipboard flooring and they had masses of channels where they wanted to be able to add and move electrical wiring and so on in a modular fashion.
Obviously if I don't cut deep enough I can't lift the boards and if I go too deep the underfloor heating pipes get damaged.
Very expensive if I damage those.
Again no problems doing hundreds of metres of cuts although after hitting a few nails the cheap rip blade I bought specially for the job wasn't the sharpest. Nevermind the company I was contracted to bought another one for me.

Then I've been accurately cutting 25mm thick MDF sheets up with it and its millimetre perfect.
No problems at all cutting 25mm MDF.
Fast and clean and that's with the 18 tooth rip blade. Not tried it with the 48 tooth standard blade as the rip blade was the one I had left in the saw and it cut the 25mm MDF like a hot knife through butter.

I would say that it doesn't half chuck out some dust from the rear extraction port when cutting and at the moment I have a good dust mask, eventually I guess I'll be getting an extractor/shopvac to keep me and my work area clean.

If my van was broken into and it was nicked I'd buy another tomorrow and I am by no means rich. Even with the deals on the prices its still and expensive tool (when the lads on site mention how expensive it was I just tell them its all the money I should have spent on my van this year) but I wish I'd bought one sooner now.

I've not even scratched the surface of what it can do yet and there's various multifunction tables that make the saw into a sort of dimension saw setup for small shops and worksites.

Then there's the boxes they come in, if you are workshop based these might not seem that special but I'm on the move all the time and the T-Loc boxes stack well, fit in my van toolsafe perfectly and I've made a little cart so I can push the box stack around on.
Although I only have one Festool tool, I have bought quite a few of the boxes and have pretty much all of my other powertools in them.
Expensive at first but each time I use them I save time and that adds up.

Oh and one thing, the guiderail clamps? Most of the time they are simply not needed as the guiderails are surprisingly grabby on the underside. I hardly ever use the clamps.

Down side? Expensive at first. So far that's it for me.
Its not hugely powerful but the blade diameter isn't so big that its got leverage against it.

I'll likely come back to this thread as and when I think of things to add and if there's any questions just ask and if I know the answer I'll post it up.

Scott.
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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 05:12 PM
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I have both the Makita and Festool tracks and they seem to be identical. I tried both with my OF2200 router with very good results. Same story on the clamps. I am considering getting one of the saws so I will try to keep an eye on this thread.

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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 05:27 PM
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Great post, first real user post I have seen. Based on your post they must be all what they say they are.

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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike View Post
I have both the Makita and Festool tracks and they seem to be identical. I tried both with my OF2200 router with very good results. Same story on the clamps. I am considering getting one of the saws so I will try to keep an eye on this thread.
If I were to buy any more of the rails I would be buying the holey rails now, I heard they cost the same as the non holey rails in North America and they only cost a tenner or so more in the UK.
Looking at getting the LR32 kit but not after the 1010 router as I'm fairly sure that I can make a sub base for my plunge 26204k router (which I believe is the same as the DW611 is in the US?

I asked to see what size the base was on the Festool 1010 and the measurements were smaller than the base on my De-Walt so I reckon I can make a phenolic base up to suit.... Maybe...with luck...

One thing I thought wasn't going to be much use was the Fastex blade change thing on it.
You pull that lever thing and then plunge the saw and it stays at the plunged depth to change the blade.

I honestly thought that I would only use that once in a blue moon but when I was cutting the chipboard flooring (22mm thick so a 21mm cut) channels I moved the rail on a length, set the saw back on the rail, plunged the saw into the end of the previous cut and as it was in the cut it stayed put while I set the other end of the rail to the other end of the new cut. I used it all the time.

Saved on all that move rail at one end and it moves the rail slightly at the other end business and saved a lot of time.
I doubt that would have worked had I been cutting 18mm chipboard flooring with underfloor heating as the cut would have been 17mm and the Fastex system wouldn't engage at that depth.

Handy all the same though.

There are more powerful saws out there and I've not used the other plunge/track saws so I can't offer up a balanced review, I chose this as there was some local dealer support and the boxes worked better for my level of mobility.
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you very much for the in depth review Scott

I was thinking that the track could help me guide my Festool 1400 router too so that makes it even more appealing staying with Festool .
Although as mentioned it seems as though other manufactures tracks may be identical?
It is a little dismal that the Festool comes with a short guide , and there crazy expensive .
I want to build a corner computer desk someday , so I thought being able to cut long mitered cuts would be a real plus

In the very near future I need to cut that stone board that you use in bathroom showers . Not sure if that would destroy the blade though? I cut a piece on a table saw before for a friend and the dust was unbelievable

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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 07:20 PM
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Carbide tipped tools will cut cement backer board but it take the life right out of them. You are better off getting a cement cutting wheel of the right speed to mount on your saw. I wouldn't want to trash a bunch of router bits on it.
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Carbide tipped tools will cut cement backer board but it take the life right out of them. You are better off getting a cement cutting wheel of the right speed to mount on your saw. I wouldn't want to trash a bunch of router bits on it.
Thanks Mike I'll look into that

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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Scott I just watched a video on the blade changing system , looks like a nice addition

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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainMan1 View Post
Thank you very much for the in depth review Scott

I was thinking that the track could help me guide my Festool 1400 router too so that makes it even more appealing staying with Festool .
Although as mentioned it seems as though other manufactures tracks may be identical?
It is a little dismal that the Festool comes with a short guide , and there crazy expensive .
I want to build a corner computer desk someday , so I thought being able to cut long mitered cuts would be a real plus

In the very near future I need to cut that stone board that you use in bathroom showers . Not sure if that would destroy the blade though? I cut a piece on a table saw before for a friend and the dust was unbelievable
I would be very leary of cutting any of that on my expensive Festool and the grit alone would shorten the life of any tool. we always scored it and broke it.

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