Tongue and groove pine boards for shop walls - Router Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Default Tongue and groove pine boards for shop walls

I am in the process of milling some 1" rough cut pine boards to be used as the interior walls of my garage workshop. My current plan is to yield as much width as each board will allow and have boards of varying widths - some as wide as 8"+. i originally intended to go with board and batten, but am now considering tongue and groove because I think the varying widths will look better as t&g. And it should help ensure the wider boards stay flat.

I had planned to mill the t&g on the table saw with a dado stack and add a "v" (or maybe a bead) to the profile with a router. I already own the required equipment, blades and bits to complete the milling this way.

I am looking for suggestions of alternative methods that will reduce the number of passes required and / or simplify the milling process. I briefly considered a t&g router bit set, but don't want to spend $100+ and I'm not sure if it would save a great deal of time over my current plan.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Edit: much of the lumber has been thicknessed to 3/4"

Last edited by tullochmurray; 07-06-2015 at 01:54 AM. Reason: Add info
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by tullochmurray View Post
I am looking for suggestions of alternative methods that will reduce the number of passes required and / or simplify the milling process. I briefly considered a t&g router bit set, but don't want to spend $100+ and I'm not sure if it would save a great deal of time over my current plan.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Edit: much of the lumber has been thicknessed to 3/4"
Welcome to the forum John...

spline them instead...
faster...
better accuracy and fit...
no guess work...
no muss, no fuss and a lot less waste...
collective higher yield...

an arbor and a 3 or 4 wing slot cutter is all you need...
rip your waste and drops into splines...

Freud Tools

mark the faces of the boards w/ chalk...
route from the faces to make everything the same...
walk the router down one edge, around the end grain and then back down the other side...
if you spline the end grain, where the butts break in your wall won't matter in the least.. less waste here too...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf SPLINES.pdf (100.1 KB, 109 views)
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 04:29 AM
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Welcome to the forum John. Follow Stick's advice and you won't go wrong.

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Enjoy the knowledge of others that can be found within.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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I like that idea a lot. One reference surface, fewer passes and ripping strips on the table saw is much simpler than setting up for a tongue. And a slot cutting set is on my list of bits I'd like to have - much more versitile than a t&g set.

A spline hadn't occured to me. I had decided on traditional t&g and was trying to figure the easiest way to skin that cat. Never thought about trying another cat.

Thanks for your input.
John
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 06:04 AM
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G'day John, welcome to the forum.

One thing to consider is what to use for the spline and how to cut it...

Some use 1/4" ply.

James
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tullochmurray View Post
I like that idea a lot. One reference surface, fewer passes and ripping strips on the table saw is much simpler than setting up for a tongue. And a slot cutting set is on my list of bits I'd like to have - much more versatile than a t&g set.

A spline hadn't occurred to me. I had decided on traditional t&g and was trying to figure the easiest way to skin that cat. Never thought about trying another cat.

Thanks for your input.
John
you still can blind nail if you wish...
no need for glue either...
as wide as your planks are, I wouldn't...
make the splines fit the slot snugly but mot tight...
make the splines ¼'' think and you should be golden...
perpendicular the spline grain to the planks grain....
length of spline isn't critical and if you use a lot of short one in one slot leave a little space between splines...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 06:37 AM
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G'day John, welcome to the forum.

One thing to consider is what to use for the spline and how to cut it...

Some use 1/4" ply.
John should have lots of rips abd drops from his original material to make splines w/....

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 06:58 AM
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John,

Welcome to the forum.

One thing you didn't mention is where the material is coming from. Is it seasoned? Since you mention it will be various widths, then I'm assuming that it is from logs that you are running through a mill, then stacking and drying, or buying rough cut.

Pine can be problematic as it is susceptible to greater expansion and contractions then some other woods; it will move. If it is not well seasoned and you don't properly acclimate it to the shop it will shrink and open gaps after it is installed.

Another method you might consider is to use a ship lap joint. If the wood moves it won't be a noticeable gap like a T & G.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 10:36 AM
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Hey, John; welcome!
The shiplap sound like less work, but not as secure in place. You will see the nails, another consideration. Mind you, if you air nail with 18ga or 23 ga they'll not even be noticeable.
On the wide boards at least, you might consider making shallow cuts lengthwise to relieve the cupping tendency (same as flooring and trim).
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 10:45 AM
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105 siding is what I put on a garage when i built it in 1973. 'Course that was the outside walls. But like Dan said, it was shiplap.

It seems it would be easier to mill into a final product. Lap joints with maybe a slight chamfer to ease the edges.

Try a couple of different styles on some scrap to see what will work for you, both in ability to mill and final look of the pieces attached.

Good luck. Post some pics. We like pics.

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