Making A Stub Haunched Tenon & Mortice??? - Router Forums
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By Cherryville Chuck
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-14-2015, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Gaia's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: Peter
Posts: 599
 
Default Making A Stub Haunched Tenon & Mortice???

I want to put a mortice in 40mm thick stock. Using the rule of 3rds the tenon should be close to 14mm wide.
I propose making the mortice using my floor standing pillar drill, the timber used will be the hardwood Utile.
Using a 14mm wide brad point drill bit to drill a starter hole to the depth of the mortice. Or perhaps a Forstner bit?
Then use a 14mm two flute straight cutting router in my 1/2" router to make successive
passes to get down to the depth of the mortice. Would I be better using a different cutter, perhaps an upward spiral cutting bit?
Then use a hand morticing chisel to square out the ends of the mortice. A 14mm mortice chisel is available.
Where I've mentioned 14mm is it alright to have it all 14mm, all fit together, machine ok?
Also when I come to make the stub haunched tenon, or stub tenon. As the mortice is 14mm wide how wide should I make the tenon to allow the glue to get in properly to make a secure glue join, 12mm, 13mm?
Also how far from the bottom of the mortice?
I'll be using a Grizzly tenoning jig on my cabinet saw to make the tenons. Do I need to make a haunched mortice to accept the haunched tenon, If so how could I go about doing that?
Thanks.

Last edited by Gaia; 07-14-2015 at 10:24 AM.
Gaia is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-14-2015, 10:23 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 26,963
 
Default

I like snug but not tight and zero slop...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 12:39 AM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 15,618
 
Default

Hi Peter. The chances of you drilling and then routing using 14mm bits and keeping it all perfectly in line depends on your set ups (jigs). You might be better off to drill about 12mm and then rout 14mm. It won't affect the routing much to be under size on the hogging out that much. Depth should be about 3mm more than tenon length. Too tight means glue starvation, too loose means that you need to use a gap filling glue or use cheesecloth in the joint or something similar to get the fit back. You shouldn't have to pound it in (with great force that is, a few taps is fine) nor should it fall in on its own. There is an ongoing debate about whether it is better to round off the tenons to match the mortise or whether you should square the corners out. Which means to me that it is personal choice.
ksidwy likes this.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Gaia's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: Peter
Posts: 599
 
Default

Ok.
Gaia is offline  
post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Gaia's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: Peter
Posts: 599
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
Hi Peter. The chances of you drilling and then routing using 14mm bits and keeping it all perfectly in line depends on your set ups (jigs). You might be better off to drill about 12mm and then rout 14mm. It won't affect the routing much to be under size on the hogging out that much. Depth should be about 3mm more than tenon length. Too tight means glue starvation, too loose means that you need to use a gap filling glue or use cheesecloth in the joint or something similar to get the fit back. You shouldn't have to pound it in (with great force that is, a few taps is fine) nor should it fall in on its own. There is an ongoing debate about whether it is better to round off the tenons to match the mortise or whether you should square the corners out. Which means to me that it is personal choice.
Ok thanks.
Gaia is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Dirty Little Secrets with Sign Making... newmexico Sign Making 45 06-18-2016 02:59 PM
making a tenon and mortise benjamin cundiff Jigs and Fixtures 2 08-08-2011 03:50 AM
best bit type for tenon making dodo Router Bits - Types and Usage 3 09-07-2010 03:05 PM
Tenon making phillipd11 Table-mounted Routing 22 02-14-2010 01:01 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome