Polyurethane glues have their use but I recall reading a magazine test that showed PVAs have considerably better strength. As note above Gorilla sells both PVA and PU but when someone says "Gorilla Glue" I think they are talking about PU.
PU cures due to exposure to water so you can accelerate it's curing by wetting the workpieces - I've used a mister. Humidity is what kills PU in a bottle. To slow down a PU bottle from going bad, you can store it in a ziploc freezer bag which reduces the (but doesn't eliminate) the moisture getting to the glue.
Frankly, I hate PU and avoid for the most part. It's so easy to use too much and get massive squeeze (expand) out which gets on everything, even Herbs fingers! (mine, too). The one place where it makes sense is gap filling. But even then, it's not a very cleanly filled gap with all the bubbles and it doesn't sand or paint well so it's best if it's used where the seam isn't visible. Those expanding-foam-insulation-in-a-can products are PU formulations. It's handy for that!
White vs Yellow is kind of a blackhole of discussion. As I understand it, there is some correlation between yellow glue using modified aliphatic resins though the color is just dye. You could, in theory, have white MAR glue. The MAR glues are supposed to have higher initial tack and soften at higher temperature than non-MAR. Unfortunately, there is so much semi-conflicting info out there. I've had good luck with TB II and TB III so I'm sticking with them.
Measure twice, cut once and CROSS OUT THE WRONG MARKS.