Thin kerf saw blades??? - Router Forums
 10Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
hawkeye10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Country: United States
First Name: Don
Posts: 2,603
 
Default Thin kerf saw blades???

I have an Infinity thin kerf saw blade ".097". I was wondering what your opinion is for these thin kerf blades. I have heard they deflect and vibrate more than .125 blades. Is this a problem?

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
hawkeye10 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 08:24 AM
Registered User
 
Gene Howe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Country: United States
First Name: Gene
Posts: 9,829
 
Default

I've been using Freud 24 T thin blades for ripping 8/4 white oak and have not seen any deflection.
I'm wondering if those who do see deflection and/or vibration have a saw with a slight arbor defect.
Herb Stoops likes this.

Gene Howe
Snowflake, AZ

'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum.
Gene Howe is offline  
post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 08:24 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Country: Canada
First Name: Keith
Posts: 1,151
 
Default

There's two sides to that argument.

Firstly, the blade removes less wood than the thicker blade, which makes it easier to push wood through your saw.

The flip side is that if you are cutting difficult wood, the blade will tend to heat up more, which in turn causes the edge of the blade to expand slightly. This is what gives the blade that characteristic wobble.

I find that if you make sure the blade is kept sharp and you don't push it too hard, that the blade will stay flat and do an excellent job. Don't be tempted to run the blade once you notice that it is starting to dull and you should be fine.
Herb Stoops likes this.

OK, fess up...which one of you clowns stole my sig? It was right here a second ago.
cocobolo1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 08:30 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Country: Canada
First Name: Keith
Posts: 1,151
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Howe View Post
I've been using Freud 24 T thin blades for ripping 8/4 white oak and have not seen any deflection.
I'm wondering if those who do see deflection and/or vibration have a saw with a slight arbor defect.
Gene, you beat my post by a few seconds.

Your theory does sound plausible, although I think that most saws these days have essentially perfect arbors.

More than anything, I find that it will be a stubborn knot that starts the trouble with these blades. But for everyday typical cabinetmaking use, the thin blades work well.

OK, fess up...which one of you clowns stole my sig? It was right here a second ago.
cocobolo1 is offline  
post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 09:06 AM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 15,065
 
Default

I used a thin rim Freud ripping blade for several years and the cut is not as smooth with them as with the glue line Freud I use now and that's on a unisaw so the arbor is good. I did find that using saw blade stabilizers improved the cut when I needed it and the stabilizers definitely improved chop saw cuts at 45* on hard woods.
timbertailor likes this.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is offline  
post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 09:33 AM
Retired Moderator
 
Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Country: United States
First Name: Mike
Posts: 11,921
 
Send a message via Skype™ to Mike
Default

Don, when I hear about blade deflection the first thing that comes to mind is "Don't force it, let the tool make the cut." This is also true for other types of saw blades and router bits. You need to move just fast enough to prevent burning with a smooth and steady feed rate. This will give you the cleanest cut possible.

Vibration occurs when a tool is out of true. If you are getting vibration stop using the tool and find out why. A bent saw blade or router bit shank could be the cause; the cutter may not be properly tightened. Safety first!

I am currently using a Forrest Woodworker II thin kerf blade and have had no problems with it; the cuts are first rate. Forrest recommends using a stiffener with all table saw blades to improve the cut. I used the Forrest stiffener with a Guhdo-Gmaxx standard kerf blade and I believe the cut was smoother.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Guhdo GMAXX blade.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	60.5 KB
ID:	207257  


Mike
"Living in the D" (this means Detroit!)
"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"
Mike is offline  
post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
hawkeye10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Country: United States
First Name: Don
Posts: 2,603
 
Default

That is a new brand of blades for me.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
hawkeye10 is offline  
post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 01:13 PM
Registered User
 
PhilBa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Country: United States
First Name: phil
Posts: 1,067
 
Default

I've used both but prefer the cut of the normal kerf blades. Though, I have a 3HP TS so don't have to worry much about bogging down.. I would use thin kerf if I was cutting a lot of thin pieces as it would yield 20% more (or take less wood to get the same amount).

If you are experiencing vibration, try a set of stabilizers.

Measure twice, cut once and CROSS OUT THE WRONG MARKS.

Visit my shop website.
PhilBa is offline  
post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 05:37 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 44
 
Default

Quote:
if you are cutting difficult wood, the blade will tend to heat up more
I must respectfully disagree. I've seen the comment made more than once that thin kerf blades will build up more heat, since they have less thermal mass. I have not seen any documentation to support that idea, and as a [retired] scientist, it makes no sense to me.

The amount of work required- and the amount of heat generated- is proportional to the amount of wood required; a blade with, say, half the kerf width will use half the power, and create half the heat of a full kerf blade. So, even if the mass of the thin blade is less (by half), the heat build up (temperature) will be the same in the two blades. In fact, since the total surface area of the two blades is virtually identical, with less mass- and less heat- the thin blade will theoretically dissipate heat faster than the thicker blade.

I'll get off my soapbox now!
jdonhowe is offline  
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
hawkeye10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Country: United States
First Name: Don
Posts: 2,603
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdonhowe View Post
I must respectfully disagree. I've seen the comment made more than once that thin kerf blades will build up more heat, since they have less thermal mass. I have not seen any documentation to support that idea, and as a [retired] scientist, it makes no sense to me.

The amount of work required- and the amount of heat generated- is proportional to the amount of wood required; a blade with, say, half the kerf width will use half the power, and create half the heat of a full kerf blade. So, even if the mass of the thin blade is less (by half), the heat build up (temperature) will be the same in the two blades. In fact, since the total surface area of the two blades is virtually identical, with less mass- and less heat- the thin blade will theoretically dissipate heat faster than the thicker blade.

I'll get off my soapbox now!
John you make some points and they make since.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
hawkeye10 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What saw blades do you like? Mike Tools and Woodworking 40 10-15-2015 11:06 PM
Bosch 4100 EQUINOX400 Tools and Woodworking 23 09-16-2014 02:39 PM
A suggestion from Maurice harrysin Woodturning and Lathes 48 12-08-2013 10:16 AM
Availability Of 235mm Blades With 3.5mm kerf Gaia Tools and Woodworking 8 01-15-2013 05:25 AM
Forrestt II thin kerf blade Birch Tools and Woodworking 22 04-11-2009 12:59 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome