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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-06-2005, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
 
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Default buying exact size lumber

ok, next question.

cherry tree sells a plan for a Napa Wine Rack #23-285. i have recently have purchased it and have these couple of questions. has anyone ever made this or atleast attempted it?

i am considering making this either out of cherry or white oak? is there some advice that you can give on which would be the better wood to use?

i was looking at rockler and they sell some white oak but the cost is in linear inch rather than board feet. if i have my totals in board feet how do i translate that into linear inch?

also, if i have to have a board that is 13-3/4" wide and i can't buy it that wide, if i have no planer to plane the surface once glued, do i have any options? until i can get a planer im kinda stuck with buying certain wood that comes in the sizes i need like laminated pine. what can i do for a peice of wood that does not have the width i need and has to be glued?

with the last question in mind, if i was in a toss up between a table saw and a planer, which one should i buy first if i don't have either? what would benefit me the most as of right now........or do i need both!!!!!

shawn
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-06-2005, 01:39 AM
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Shawn, the table saw comes first. Check around for a used one. Dont waste your time with one of the small models, they dont offer enough support. Get a full sized table. Gee, I even know someone selling a full sized Craftsman table for $100.
Right now Rockler has the 12-1/2" Delta planer for $199, and you get a $25 Rockler gift card with it.
You can edge joint your wood on your router table. Clamp the table down to your bench, add a 1/16" shim behind the outfeed fence and adjust your fence so it is flush with a straight cutting bit. Several passes and you will have a good edge to guide off of on your table saw. After ripping the wood you will have two edges you can glue to other boards prepped this way to get the required width.
For your wood choice visit Woodcraft. They have Lyptus on sale this month for $4.99 a board foot. Lyptus is dense like hard maple, looks like mahogany and has the color of cherry. You can view it on their website. I think this would make an excellent choice for your project. Ask them for places you can get the wood sized for you, perhaps customers or professional shops in the area? You can handle glueing the boards for width.
As far as Rocklers price on the white oak, ask them what the price is for the pieces you are considering.

Mike
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-06-2005, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
 
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is there any forum questions you do not respond too? you have an answer for everything!!!!! as for this table saw, can you email me a picture of it so i can see what i'd be getting into???? i mean honestly, whats wrong with it??? if anything. why do you wanna part with it?

why do you have to add a shim to the fence of the router? why can't you use the fence as is? i see more times than none that people have some type of a backing clamped to the fence that i don't understand. is there something wrong with the fence itself? whats the reason for this?

as for gluing, what if i get the wood glued together and there ends up being a lip that protrudes up and the surface is no longer flat? tehn what do i do? again it would take me back to the planer part of it right?

shawn
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-06-2005, 10:55 AM
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The reason for the shim on the outfeed side of the fence will make sence when you think about it. A jointer has 2 flat tables with a rotating set of knives in between. The knives are set to exactly the same height as the outfeed table. The infeed or right side table is lowered the amount you want to shave off the wood to get a true surface. The imperfections are trimmed down by the knives and the wood is supported by the outfeed table at the same height. Making a couple very small cuts will remove all the imperfections leaving a true flat edge.
Now turn this set up 90 degrees. The outfeed side of your router fence has to be higher than the infeed side. By placing the shim behind the sliding fence section you accomplish the same thing as lowering the infeed side of the jointer. The straight cutting bit has to be lined up with the outfeed side of the fence to support the work as it is trued.
There could be several reasons why people have something clamped to their fence. One could be they are cutting a tall piece and want more support for the wood to lean against. Another reason could be they have a one piece fence with a small hole in it for dust extraction, but need to use a larger bit without damaging their fence. By adding a board to keep the work away from their fence they can cut a larger hole to allow for dust extraction. You have a sliding fence so you can adjust the right and left sides for a bigger opening. Some people might clamp a stop block to their fence so they make a cut end at a certain depth. By moving the fence back they can duplicate this depth across the end of a board. If this operation was one they would do on a regular basis they might design an auxilliary fence with the stop block attached to save on set up time in the future.
When you glue up boards to make a wider section they need to be the same thickness. Small imperfections will happen but this will be taken care of by sanding.
You need to use a jointer and a planer for surfacing rough cut lumber. The jointer gives you a true flat edge on one wide surface of the board and the planer will make the other side conform to it. If you try using just the planer to smooth the wood you will end up with two sides that are an equal distance from each other but not flat. They could be up and down like a roller coaster, or simply a big curve.
Now for the table saw. I bought it because it was a very good deal and in showroom condition. I planned on setting up my dado blade in it and leaving it. Then I added some other tools and suddenly I have no room to move in my garage. It makes sense for me to part with it and do the set ups on my good table saw. I am offering it for what I have into it. $100 will buy you a brand new small portable Delta or other brand of table saw. A full sized table offers several advantages such as more support for your work. This one is complete with the manual, wrenches, push stick, sled, and castors for moving it. I will send you a pic of it later today. If you can find a similar deal on a full sized table grab it. This one will find a good home eventually.

Mike
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-08-2005, 07:52 PM
 
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The table is one of the most used tools in any woodworking shop. Don't even consider one of the table models. Any of the three Craftsman hybrids is good, I think the Rigid at HD is a good saw, Delta has a contractor saw that HD sold for $399 but I think theye're all gone. The fence is a very important part of the saw. If it doesn't line up correctly and stay that way you will never get straight rips. I bought the mid priced Craftsman and like it. The saw just above mine has one of the best fences ever. They go on sale often and get yourself a Craftsman Club card and at some stores you'll get an additional 10% off. If you don't have a Sears credit card and decide to buy one of their saws...........make the saw the first purchase on the card and you get another 10%off. If you don't mind buying on the net there are several good contractor saws available. Check Amazon for one but there are many others.
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