Kitchen Table Top glue up help. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Default Kitchen Table Top glue up help.

I was looking around and saw a few pictures of table tops I liked and wanted to try them out. I might incorporate them into counter tops when I redo my kitchen if I like the results enough. Being I haven 't relied on strictly glue before is using just glue alright for doing something like this or should I toss in screws with each board or use dowels? Or would glue and clamping be enough (I'd be using Titebond III). I only have four 48" Bessey Clamps though. I do have pipe clamps but no pipes for them if its an issue.

Also would I be better of doing the entire top at once, or in three separate sections then sending each section through my planer then connecting the three sections after going through my planer? Or assemble in one big piece then sand entire thing?

First picture is the table base I will be using. (Not a fan of the 2x4 being flat in center though.) The second photo is the table top I will be using. Basically 28 2x4's glued together.
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post #2 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 11:55 AM
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Hey, Eric; pipes for the pipe clamps would be the best place to start. You'll need 'em!
-Glue alone, if done properly should be more than just OK.
-Better would be splines in the butt joints; you wouldn't need to run the slots right to the ends if you didn't want to see the splines when it's finished.
-Doing it in sections or all at once is really your choice, but as you suggested, being able to run the glued components through the planer before the final glue up might be really helpful.
It's going to reduce the amount of time spent surfacing the finished assembly substantially!

You'll probably get as many opinions as there are active members, but in the end it'll be your choices and really that's the fun of woodworking. None of the choices you proposed are wrong or potentially disastrous.
But in the end, yeh, you need the pipe clamps...or a huge work bench which would allow you to use wedges and cauls to clamp the perimeter.
(You might find Titebond II easier to use than the III...but again, there's no right or wrong on that.)
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post #3 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Would 4 48" clamps not be enough? My work table is 4x8 so it's large enough. So far I've only used titebond 3 on my projects so not familiar with the differences. I was thinking of cutting the outer most border 2x4s at 45 and capping the end of all of the 2x4s with a 2x4 running perpendicular to them. Wast sure if it would ruin the look I was going for.
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post #4 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 01:12 PM
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5 by my reckonin' at a bare minimum...
3 on top...
2 to the bottom side equally spaced apart and alternated...

7 would be way better...
4 top...
3 bottom...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #5 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 02:50 PM
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What is the final dimension of the table top?
And the 2x4's will be glued on edge, flat side to flat side. Right?

Just thinking out loud...Can you pick up 28 2x4's? That is going to be heavy.

The table top I built was almost too heavy for two men. It was 1 1/2 inch hard maple..38x67 inches.

Are you going to mill the 2x4's so they all have flat sides and edges?

I have seen tops built in sections to make the work easier. You have to work fast because the glue will start to set up. Maybe four sections of 7 each, then glue the sections together.

I see a lot of sanding in your future. (experience talking).

I attached the pics of the maple top I built for a lady. She provided the dimensions so it would fit her frame. All I had to do was build it. Whew!

This is when I realized I needed a bigger table saw.

The last pic was sent to me after they got the table set up in their dining room. She loves it.

Hope this helps.
Mike
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post #6 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 03:05 PM
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splining will help tremendously w/ flush alignment...
and I MEAN TREMENDOUSLY....

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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 03:43 PM
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How to make a wooden counter top.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
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post #8 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
5 by my reckonin' at a bare minimum...
3 on top...
2 to the bottom side equally spaced apart and alternated...

7 would be way better...
4 top...
3 bottom...
Well I only have 4 to work with so looks like I might need to go buy some pipes to go with my pipe clamps. I believe I have 4-6 pipe clamps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Stringer View Post
What is the final dimension of the table top?
And the 2x4's will be glued on edge, flat side to flat side. Right?

Just thinking out loud...Can you pick up 28 2x4's? That is going to be heavy.

The table top I built was almost too heavy for two men. It was 1 1/2 inch hard maple..38x67 inches.

Are you going to mill the 2x4's so they all have flat sides and edges?

I have seen tops built in sections to make the work easier. You have to work fast because the glue will start to set up. Maybe four sections of 7 each, then glue the sections together.

I see a lot of sanding in your future. (experience talking).

I attached the pics of the maple top I built for a lady. She provided the dimensions so it would fit her frame. All I had to do was build it. Whew!

This is when I realized I needed a bigger table saw.

The last pic was sent to me after they got the table set up in their dining room. She loves it.

Hope this helps.
Mike
The 2x4s are going to be glued together so that the 3.5" side is butted against each other. The glue time did worry me a bit. I do own a 20" planer so I was thinking if I had to I could do three sections then attach them together. As for the table. I haven't exactly figured out the dimensions yet. Roughly 42" wide and 6.5-7' long. More than likely 6.5'. I've already built 3 decent sized picnic tables and sanded all of them multiple times so I am not worried about sanding. Biggest worries are making sure the pieces stay together and don't come apart. I was tempted to glue two pieces clamp them, then put in some deck screws and repeat with each 2x4 added but wasn't sure if it was necessary.

Oh, and I do realize its going to be very heavy. Could I pick up 30 2x4's. Yes. Would it be safe or easy. No. I do have a very large work table though luckily. I retrofitted my old pool table with casters and a plywood insert table top.
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post #9 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 05:37 PM
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Eric, the individual glue faces are basically 6' x 3.5"...that's a lot of glued surface. If you own a 20" planer you're in way better shape than most of us *drool*!
The two critical factors are as you already noted, the quality of the two planed glue faces, and adequate glue (not starved).
Personally, I'd do the spline thing. Bomb proof. :0
Can I borrow your planer...

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post #10 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Eric, the individual glue faces are basically 6' x 3.5"...that's a lot of glued surface. If you own a 20" planer you're in way better shape than most of us *drool*!
The two critical factors are as you already noted, the quality of the two planed glue faces, and adequate glue (not starved).
Personally, I'd do the spline thing. Bomb proof. :0
Can I borrow your planer...
I wish some of you guys were closer so you could teach me to use all of these tools I have. I learn as I go I guess. I haven't used my planer once (other than to test it) since I got it. It sparks on start up and I wanted to have the motor looked at so I didn't burn out a $400-$500 motor. No one in my area does it anymore. For this table though I'll use it.

I wish some of you did live close to me. You'd be more than welcome to use my tools. I have a lot of tools but still missing much of the knowledge to use them all properly.

As for splining. Each 2x4 is only 1.5" wide. Wouldn't cutting into each side on every 2x4 to insert a spline weaken the wood? Wouldn't inserting several deck screws into each board have the same result?

I am sure it is ridiculous but I figured I could just take 10 boards or so. Glue each one and screw each additional board I add to the 10 board section clamping as I go before screwing each new board. After I got to 10, running it through the planer. Then flipping it over and planing down the other side as well. After I do each section attaching the three sections together with wood glue and then clamping.

If needed for structural integrity (after clamping several boards together) drilling through them and inserting/gluing wooden dowels? I know what splines are but I don't see how that is going to really help anymore then using dowels or deck screws to keep alignment. You guys know more than me though is why I ask.
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