A how to do jointer question. - Router Forums
Old 07-11-2016, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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A how to do jointer question.

I have a walnut board 10" wide and 30" long that I am going to make a cutting board from. My jointer is 6" wide so I know I will have to cut it down to 5" wide. The board is bowed so would it be better to to shorten the board to 15" then get it unbowed. How's that for a new word???

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:57 AM
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How big are you making the cutting board...? (L and W)

How much of a bow...?

Any twist...?

If you make thinner panels (say 3 1/3") and reverse every other one, will the bow come out (splined, of course)...?

Nick

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Last edited by Nickp; 07-11-2016 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 07-11-2016, 11:00 AM
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If you can live with the shorter length, you'll wind up removing less material - for example, if the board has a symmetrical 1/4" bow, you'll wind up with a full length board that's 1/2" thinner than when you started. Cut the board in half, the bow will be 1/8" and you'll wind up losing 1/4" on the thickness.
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Old 07-11-2016, 11:38 AM
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"Unbowed" is a perfectly good word...very literary in fact.

Re the walnut; why not rip it into 2"-3" strips, then reassemble but flipping every other board upside-down? that should relieve a lot of the internal stress.
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Old 07-11-2016, 11:43 AM
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what are the dimensions of the cutting board?

cutting it to reduce the bow will save you thickness, but if thickness isn't an issue than I might leave the piece long to compensate for any snipe on the ends after jointing or planing.

Another option is to support it under different corners on a piece of MDF and 'joint' it with a 12 inch planer, or plane it on one face using router skis, then send it through the planer.

Doug
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Old 07-11-2016, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
"Unbowed" is a perfectly good word...very literary in fact.

Re the walnut; why not rip it into 2"-3" strips, then reassemble but flipping every other board upside-down? that should relieve a lot of the internal stress.
and spline it back together...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...

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Old 07-11-2016, 04:56 PM
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I guess it depends on how it's bowed - I assumed it to be bowed along the length (hence the suggestion to cut it on half before rework) rather than cupped across the width, difference in terminology I guess. If cupped, ripping it into narrower strips, flattening the concave face on the jointer and then finishing up on the planer would be the way to go, still have to joint the edges square to get a good glue up when assembling the parts back into a board.
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Old 07-11-2016, 09:20 PM
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I have an idea, it's probably flawed or it would have been mentioned already, but goes.

Don you did not say how thick your original board is, I'm thinking that it probably is no more than an inch thick, but this is due to my experience in buying rough cut lumber.

Anyway, why not cut the board into six parts, each one being about 5"x14" or son x whatever the thickness of the board is. Then mill each part so that all six of them are flat and straight. Once done, face joint two of the parts together until you have three pieces 5"x15" x twice the thickness of the final thickness of the six milled parts. Then join them together with spines and cut the resulting piece to suitable dimentions.

This would or should get you back to about the original thickness of the board.

Just a thought from somebody without any experience at doing what I'm suggesting.

Jerry
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Old 07-12-2016, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bowen View Post
I have an idea, it's probably flawed or it would have been mentioned already, but goes.

Don you did not say how thick your original board is, I'm thinking that it probably is no more than an inch thick, but this is due to my experience in buying rough cut lumber.

Anyway, why not cut the board into six parts, each one being about 5"x14" or son x whatever the thickness of the board is. Then mill each part so that all six of them are flat and straight. Once done, face joint two of the parts together until you have three pieces 5"x15" x twice the thickness of the final thickness of the six milled parts. Then join them together with spines and cut the resulting piece to suitable dimentions.

This would or should get you back to about the original thickness of the board.

Just a thought from somebody without any experience at doing what I'm suggesting.

Jerry
Over the 30" length it is bowed 1/8" and the board is 13/16" thick. I was thinking about cutting it's length to 15" and that would reduce the bow on the board. Where I buy lumber you can buy it rough which is 1" thick or straight run which is 13/16" thick.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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