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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Question Drill Press Table

I'm in the process of making a new DP table. At this point the 2x 3/4"thick plywood panel is 28" side to side and 21" deep (front to back).
Seems a bit oversize, front to back. Is there a normal dimension for that?
I'm trying to keep it large enough to do euro hinge drilling on cab. doors. I haven't done the hardwood edging yet so reducing it isn't a problem.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 01:09 PM
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That's a pretty sizable table, but since you are doing doors, larger is probably better. I have been looking at a laser guide to help with positioning the bit, this one on Amazon is $40. https://www.amazon.com/DRILL-PRESS-L...ss+laser+guide

The other picture is of a large table, which seems very practical for door hinges, if you have the space. You would have lots of support, and I'd imagine it will be easy to level at that size.

Did you put in a replacable insert?
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 01:14 PM
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Mine is 24" wide and about 14" deep. This size works for me but I would think it depends on what your drilling the most. I also have a replaceable center piece [4" X 4"] that I really like. Before I had the center piece I laid a piece of wood on top of the table to drill into. I didn't like that at all. I also have some centers made up so will not have to stop what I am doing and make one.
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Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 01:15 PM
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That's pretty big in depth. When I drilled the holes for my doors, i cobbled up a jig to support the overhanging weight.

Lemme see if I can find the pic.
Mike

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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 01:35 PM
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My drill press table build thread
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-t...ess-table.html

Dang, I can't find the picture I was looking for. Basically, it was a pair of 2x4's attached to the underside of the drill press table and they extended outward towards the operator. A shim block the thickness of the table was screwed to the 2x's and thus provided support.

I will say that since building my table, I have had no regrets. The T slots and the open slots provide a variety of clamping positions for just about anything I need to drill.

The flip stop blocks make it easy to drill consisent holes, especially on doors. Just flip to the other stop and drill away. I usually drill all of the holes on one end of the doors, then switch the stops and drill the other ends.

Note: I made a jig using a piece of scrap. I bored the hole the correct depth and exact distance from the fence and the end of the cabinet door where it should be drilled. All I have to do is lower the bit into the hole, set the fence and the stop block and I am ready to start drilling.

Hope this helps.
Mike
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 01:51 PM
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@DaninVan -

Here is the door drilling jig I was talking about.

It is only a set up tool. Note that the distance in between the holes is irrelevant.

The important stuff is:
1) The distance from each end of the door to be drilled (for stop block set up),
2) The distance from the edge of the door to where the hole will be bored (3-4mm)
3) The depth to bore the hole for the hinge cup (for setting the stop on the drill)

Mike
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, guys; yes, a lot of help!
That pic in Tom's comment is pretty much what I had in mind...I like those rounded front corners...great safety feature. Any idea why they cut down the fence? Seems like it'd be desirable to have stops available on either side(?)...
I thought I'd laminate some scrap 3/4" ply as well, when I laminate the top, to make a bunch of disposable inserts. I was just going to use the holesaw in the DP to get the location where I need it maybe a 2" ? ...3"?
Mike's idea for a jig to preset the hinge locations and depth is a keeper.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
I'm in the process of making a new DP table. At this point the 2x 3/4"thick plywood panel is 28" side to side and 21" deep (front to back).
Seems a bit oversize, front to back. Is there a normal dimension for that?
I'm trying to keep it large enough to do euro hinge drilling on cab. doors. I haven't done the hardwood edging yet so reducing it isn't a problem.
Is there a normal this is a rhetorical question.. correct???

wrecked angle ~ 1/3rd rule...
make the table slideable (T slots length wise on the bottom) to the left and right and you get more usability come large doors...
go w/ a phenolic covered BB ½'' top and a ¼'' bottom w/ a torsion box frame and you'll get a flatter, stronger, more stable, and lighter top...
use adhesive instead of glue...
add an adjustable leg to the end for support when the table is slide all the way to one side...
painters adjustable/telescoping/compression style pole.. cheap and made to order...

.

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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That ship's sailed, Stick. The only thing I can change now is the length and width. The sub panel has been routered out to accommodate the 11" diameter cast Iron DP OEM table.
Tee bolts down through the OEM table's vise mtg. slots, with threaded locking knobs below.
The DP is on a castored machine base; lots of width for stability. And adjustable to accommodate the garage floor slope.
Pics later...I hear the coffee shop calling.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Mike. As Stick says, 'keep it simple'...can't get simpler than that. What a time saver! No measuring or calculating means less chance of screwing up.
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