Help Identifying Table Saw Blade - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Default Help Identifying Table Saw Blade

I've got a SEARS 10" Table Saw blade and I'm trying to identify its use. It's from the late 1970's.
It is a steel blade with 28 teeth.
The printing on it is:
KROMEDGE
CHISEL TOOTH
9- 32668
113B

Can any body tell me what cutting application it would be best used for.
Thank You
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 07:27 PM
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positive hook angle combination blade best suited for ripping on your table saw...
no matter what the package says...
this the blade...

.

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If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Last edited by Stick486; 07-20-2016 at 07:30 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
positive hook angle combination blade best suited for ripping on your table saw...
no matter what the package says...
this the blade...

.
Thank You.
A ripping I will go.
I was doing some clean-up and sorting my saw blades. I found the original blade from my Delta Miter Saw too....a Cross Cut Flooring blade.
I've kind of replaced these steel blades with carbides.
I had found a local sharpener and he did a really nice job on my blades....they all came back sharper than when they were new.
Unfortunately he retired.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 03:16 AM
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28 teeth would still be a ripping blade like Stick says although that tooth count is on the high side for ripping but lower than the 40 -50 that is normally associated with combination blades. I would use that one for cutting something that you wouldn`t use one of your good carbide blades for.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
28 teeth would still be a ripping blade like Stick says although that tooth count is on the high side for ripping but lower than the 40 -50 that is normally associated with combination blades. I would use that one for cutting something that you wouldn`t use one of your good carbide blades for.
That's my plan. I have to rip a bunch of 2 X 4's for shelf brackets that I am making.
Thank You
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 08:57 AM
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JIMMIEM, I believe I have had the exact same blade you have described. I discarded it because of all the vibration it created when using it. I have since replaced it with the Freud Blade. I did not replace the same type blade. The blade you described for the work I do was too aggressive and did not leave a clean good cut. Like has been mentioned before, I went to a blade with more teeth. I am still a very early beginner with Wood Working, even though I am probably much older than most who use this forum. So I may not be giving the best advice.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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JIMMIEM, I believe I have had the exact same blade you have described. I discarded it because of all the vibration it created when using it. I have since replaced it with the Freud Blade. I did not replace the same type blade. The blade you described for the work I do was too aggressive and did not leave a clean good cut. Like has been mentioned before, I went to a blade with more teeth. I am still a very early beginner with Wood Working, even though I am probably much older than most who use this forum. So I may not be giving the best advice.
Thank You. You are correct....the blade is basically a throw away....not high end at all. As you know it's old and steel. I'll just use it for rough cuts in 2 X 4's.....don't need a really clean cut. When it gets dull....which should happen pretty quickly I'll send it to the metal recycler. FWIW rip blades will have less teeth than a crosscut blade.....I've got some very good 24 tooth carbide ripping blades.
To belabor the point I also have an old Sears steel hollow ground planer blade which does give a fairly good cut.
A lot of these are from back in the day when SEARS was the go to place....at least for DIYers...pre-internet days.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 09:28 AM
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I have my dad's Craftsman Kromedge dado set he purchased for use with the Montgomery Ward RAS he had that I also inherited. I don't believe he ever used the dado set. I have saved it in case I need to cut dado's in construction grade lumber or older lumber that I don't want to use the carbide dado blades for. I also have the original Delta flooring blade for the chop saw that I keep for the same lumber. No sense in dulling the nice carbide Woodworker blade.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagwatts1 View Post
JIMMIEM, I believe I have had the exact same blade you have described. I discarded it because of all the vibration it created when using it. I have since replaced it with the Freud Blade. I did not replace the same type blade. The blade you described for the work I do was too aggressive and did not leave a clean good cut. Like has been mentioned before, I went to a blade with more teeth. I am still a very early beginner with Wood Working, even though I am probably much older than most who use this forum. So I may not be giving the best advice.
More than Stick? I dont think so.

BTW Stick what was the price of that blade?, I barely see a little tag there.

Cheers.

Joe
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 12:01 PM
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Jim; That packaging features the blade mounted on a radial arm saw. Pretty sure that was it's intended application...
Blades for Radial Arm Saws and Compound Miter Saws / Rockler How-to
The writing on a Radial Arm saw/SCM saw blade is on the reverse side of a normal table saw blade.
ie reverse tooth direction.
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