Jointer technique - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Default Jointer technique

Iím trying to clean up the edges on some (quarter sawn) White Oak. For the most part, the results are as expected but inevitably there are a couple pieces where the grain runs both ways and I end up with some tear out. Is there a way to minimize / eliminate this?

I donít think I will have any better luck manually with a plane but would a final cleanup pass with a router take care of this since it would be cutting at a higher RPM? There are new blades on the jointer and Iím taking as little material off as I can per pass
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 11:59 AM
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The only way I know to reduce it is to use a Shellix type head on the machine which has segments that hit the board at an angle which produces a shearing type cut instead of the straight cut the normal heads do. Reducing feed speed, especially where the grain is bad might help and spraying the surface with water and letting it soak in a few minutes might help if the wood is very dry. I have a lot of white birch that has been sitting around for years and the water will help some with it.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 01:00 PM
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Set your infeed table to take a small cut, less than 1/16". Take slower passes. While this won't eliminate tearout by 100%, it will substantially reduce it.

The other option is a hand plane. The trick with that is to not hold it straight one, otherwise you will get the same tearout as you are on the jointer. Hold it at an angle so that you get the shearing action, similar to if you have a Shellix head on your jointer.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 01:44 PM
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in this case use your router as the joiner w/ Downshear Helix Flush Trim Router Bit...
Woodworker.com: Freud174 Downshear Helix Flush Trim Router Bit, 34 Diameter X 2 Down Shear Flush Trim Bit

.
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File Type: pdf R4 JOINER SUBSTITUTE.pdf (34.4 KB, 49 views)
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 03:11 PM
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I know that I make some statements that cause a lot of eye brows to be raised when I say them, but what if you were to cut the work piece longer than you need it to be and then after you mill the piece, cut it to the final length that you need for it to be.

Heck, I don't know, just seems logical to me. By the way I have the helix head on my jointer and have milled a lot of QS white oak and have never experienced any tear out, I did not know until now how much better they must be.

Anyway, that's my two cents worth.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help guys. Chuck's suggestion for dampening the wood before cutting seems interesting - may do one more pass to see if it does the trick.

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in this case use your router as the joiner w/ Downshear Helix Flush Trim Router Bit...
Woodworker.com: Freud174 Downshear Helix Flush Trim Router Bit, 34 Diameter X 2 Down Shear Flush Trim Bit
.
Thanks but I just blew my monthly router bit budget and the deadline for the project is the end of the month. I do have up and downshear bits - but they are not flush trim configurations. I was just thinking of a straight cut (tried the jointer type use on the RT, haven't had great luck) - maybe I can figure another good way to guide the router.

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what if you were to cut the work piece longer than you need it to be and then after you mill the piece, cut it to the final length that you need for it to be.

Heck, I don't know, just seems logical to me. By the way I have the helix head on my jointer and have milled a lot of QS white oak and have never experienced any tear out, I did not know until now how much better they must be.
Jerry
Nice thought but the tear-out (not snipe) is about 1/3 way down the needed length. I can't afford a helix cutter for my planer, the jointer is way down on the list
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeTime View Post

Thanks but I just blew my monthly router bit budget and the deadline for the project is the end of the month. I do have up and downshear bits - but they are not flush trim configurations. I was just thinking of a straight cut (tried the jointer type use on the RT, haven't had great luck) - maybe I can figure another good way to guide the router.
I trust you read the PDF...
free hand rout instead of using the RT...
straight edge guide and your shear bit...
that one I linked you to is an asset...

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, that's probably where I got the idea - I think you put this on another recent post? Anyways, I will be using it to clean up the sheet goods cuts
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeTime View Post
Thanks for the help guys. Chuck's suggestion for dampening the wood before cutting seems interesting - may do one more pass to see if it does the trick.



Thanks but I just blew my monthly router bit budget and the deadline for the project is the end of the month. I do have up and downshear bits - but they are not flush trim configurations. I was just thinking of a straight cut (tried the jointer type use on the RT, haven't had great luck) - maybe I can figure another good way to guide the router.



Nice thought but the tear-out (not snipe) is about 1/3 way down the needed length. I can't afford a helix cutter for my planer, the jointer is way down on the list


Sorry, my assumption was that the tear out was at the end of the cut, I did not think of it as being snipe, sure hope that you figure it out. That QS White Oak is really nice material isn't it.

Jerry
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 07:58 PM
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Forum members please correct my "Guess" to the tear out problem.

If I had both edges go through the jointer and there was tear out on one or both sides, I would take it to the table saw and take off a hair to clean it up.

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