Craftsman router help - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2017, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Default Craftsman router help

Hello - I have an old Craftsman 315.25060 router that I use very occasionally, but now need for a fairly ambitious project (making about 80 slots/pockets). Putting aside whether I'll be successful with this tool, I think a part is missing and I'll need to replace it or get a new tool. I've also looked at the manual, and don't see a reference to what's missing.

As I remember there is a cone shaped 'collar' that fits inside the threaded shaft to allow bits to be exchanged and tightened into place, there is nothing in the shaft, there might have also been a nut (it's probably been 10 years since I've used the router, but seem to remember it having all the parts). I included a couple pics.

So, is this something that can still be obtained? The 'Craftsman' support site seems based on part numbers and as I said, I don't see this part in the diagram. Is this a generic item that might work with other routers? Finally, I seem to mostly have 1/4" shaft bits and was going to buy another, but the threaded shaft of the router seems large enough to accept larger shafts, possibly with a different collar?

As you can tell, my knowledge of this tool is slipping, any help you can give would be appreciated. Thanks - Bruce
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2017, 02:02 PM
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Bruce, what you are missing is the collet/nut. The router shown is the 25070 which is very similar to yours. If you enlarge the second photo you will see the collet/nut installed. For the most part the collet/nut is unique to a particular router but there are some interchanges. The model you have is intended to work with 1/4" shank bits and is low hp. No advantage to using a larger shank in this model. You may not be able to order the collet/nut anymore except from an aftermarket place.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2017, 04:28 PM
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Hey Bruce, welcome to the community...

Yep, that's an oldie but goodie ya got there. The collet and collet nut are the missing parts.
the Collet nut is Part #: 1-623792-03, and its no longer available.
the Collet is Parts #: 1-623791-01, also no longer available

Here a link to the exploded parts diagram. Your part is #44 & #45

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mode...7/0740000.html

but going back and cross referencing the 3 digit prefix, it appears that Ryobi made that router for Craftsman. You might try following up with a Ryobi service center.
Might be alot more bother than its worth in the end. If a smallish router is what you like, give the DeWalt 611PK a look.

Hope this helped
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2017, 07:36 PM
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Hi Bruce and welcome. That router if it had a collet and nut would be worth at most $25 so if you have difficulties finding the parts or they are costly it won't be worth it.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2017, 07:57 PM
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Hi Bruce. Welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

As others have mentioned, might be more bother than it's worth. However, one possible source might be Ebay or Craig's List, or another online sale source. You might find one that is broken in other ways that you could scavage for the parts that you need. I wouldn't waste a lot of time on it... newer and much better routers are available for a very reasonable price today.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2017, 09:02 PM
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Hi, Bruce; welcome!
Seriously, if you value your time, invest in a new router. That one ( I still have my original Craftsman, like yours) is ancient, and seriously under-powered at 5/8 HP
A modern decent router would be in the 2+ HP range.
The one pictured looks like it's been through the wars. You can try and find the parts but there's no guarantee that it'll work properly even if you locate them.

A lot of us here like the Bosch 1617EVSPK, but it's by no means the only decent one out there. (Bill mentioned the DeWalt 611PK)
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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Wow! Thanks for all the input guys, Mike et. al. Nice welcome and good info, now that I know what I'm looking for I see Sears sells one, but it doesn't list my model, I suppose it might work? (oh, see I can't post a URL yet)

So if I can't find the part in the garage (or my wife can't, and she's pretty good), it looks like it would be about $20 with shipping to try the part.

Now may be the time for a better question, my goal is to create around 80 1/2" wide slots in 3/4" cherry plywood (around a foot, half under, half over). I planned on drilling a 1/2" hole in each end and routing between them with a flush cut bit, possibly two passes, first 1/4", then 1/2". Obviously a lot of work for me, the drill, the router, and the bit (oh, did I mention it's been around 100 almost every day).

As I said above I'm a pretty casual woodworker (I'm sure you couldn't tell), so even decent bits seem expensive, and this project has lots of pieces, thick cut glass, a welded caster base, and some doors that make this part seem easy. So is this router even up to the task of cutting almost 100' of slot? Anything special I should look for in a replacement (knowing it might not get used again until after I again loose the colett AND nut). I'll check out the suggestions above, especially like the idea of something used, sounds like I should be looking around 2HP? Is 1/4" shaft ok, that could use my existing bits, but I haven't bought bits for this project.

Ok, have at it ... really though, thanks for the help, suggestions, and warm welcome! - Bruce

Here's what I'm building (the slots are in the bottom and top) ...
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 01:43 AM
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Drilling a hole and then trying to rout to a predetermined stop point will leave marks where the router bit takes over on possibly many of the grooves and certainly on a few. What is a better plan is to use a plunge router and use it for the whole groove using a down spiral straight bit from the top side or an up spiral from the backside. The up spiral clears chips better but I would want to try it on some scrap first to make sure that it didn't blow some grain out as it emerged through the front face.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
Drilling a hole and then trying to rout to a predetermined stop point will leave marks where the router bit takes over on possibly many of the grooves and certainly on a few. What is a better plan is to use a plunge router and use it for the whole groove using a down spiral straight bit from the top side or an up spiral from the backside. The up spiral clears chips better but I would want to try it on some scrap first to make sure that it didn't blow some grain out as it emerged through the front face.
Thanks for your suggestion Chuck, it begs a question. I'd looked at spiral bits for the chip clearing quality, but it didn't seem you could get a 1/2" cut on a 1/4" shank (one of the reasons I was asking about shank size). It generally seems with a spiral bit that the cutting size is equal or less than the shank size? Am I looking in the wrong places? Or are you suggesting a slot template that I would follow around the edges?

I had thought by drilling a whole at each end I would have a slight buffer at the end point and wouldn't need a stop. By clamping a long board as a straight edge, or possibly two for a channel, I could cut 4 grooves with each setup. Though I'd like these to look nice the precision is not critical, they're just for air flow.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so found a used Porter-Cable 7529 on Craigslist for $40, said to be in good working condition. Around 2HP I think, could it handle this job? I looked at the Bosch and DeWalts mentioned, which are very nice (near or over $200?), but I suspect after this I'd have a nice router sitting on the shelf for a while.
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