Here two identical (except for the type of wood) boxes were made by stack cutting walnut and poplar, then mixing the cut pieces up a bit. The elk images were cut on an angle so they would fit into each other without a gap due to the thickness of the blade.
Each of the 4 sides were cut on a scroll saw, with the light and dark woods stacked together. Each pair of sides was cut on both ends with that squiggly pattern, blade at 90 degrees. The walnut end cuts were combined with the poplar center piece; the poplar end cuts were combined with the walnut center piece. This resulted in two boxes instead of one. The original pattern that inspired this project (by Gary MacKay) only had one box, since the final end cuts were from small pieces and the original corners were discarded. Once the 4 sides were whole again, they were miter jointed together. Here's a close-up...
After. The two different woods (3 pieces) of a side were glued together, planed a bit, and then mitered on a table saw. If reversed, I would probably harm the miter edge -- scrolling takes a lot of movement!
It's just a squiggle -- one can make any design that looks good. The attached pattern is what I used. Made 2 for each side stack (8 total), one at each end. Put clear self-adhering shelving plastic on the wood; covered the plastic and paper with rubber cement, attached the two; made sure the blade was at 90 degrees (else the walnut and poplar pieces would not fit together) and cut with a #5, 17 tpi, double teeth blade at a fairly slow speed. the boards in a stack were each ~3/8" to start with, then hand-planed to 1/4" after glue-up, to make sure the side was flat and square.
I'm new to scroll sawing (bought a saw in Feb), so I don't know if that was the best blade to use. It worked, though. If anyone has ideas on better blade choices, I would sure like to learn from you!
The lid inlays were also from ~3/8" boards, stacked. The table was angled to 4 degrees. It couldn't be at 90, since the image would fall through the background -- there would be a gap due to the blade thickness . At 4 degrees, the image nested into the background and was able to be glued up. That meant the image was co-planer with the background, but not even. To fix that, I planed each side until it was smooth -- down to 1/4" or so.
Nice looking Boxes Dave. Great Idea on the corners.
That is how I used to do my inlays on the scrollsaw but I did not like seeing the backside of the inlay inside the box so I used thinner material for the inlay then glued that to a solid piece for the stock, then I thicknessed the top by taking thickness off the underside.
Nice looking Boxes Dave. Great Idea on the corners.
That is how I used to do my inlays on the scrollsaw but I did not like seeing the backside of the inlay inside the box so I used thinner material for the inlay then glued that to a solid piece for the stock, then I thicknessed the top by taking thickness off the underside.
I agree with this. It makes me appreciate the router-based inlay method I use, demonstrated at https://dmasterman.com/wood/inlay/, where the inlays can be extremely complex. Some are online at https://dmasterman.com/wood/projects/.
Most of these more complex inlays were made just for fun, using things my wife crocheted / knitted (http://irresistiblecreatures.com/). Some day soon, I'll attempt a more serious scene...
It's great to see the scrolling sub-forum used...it would be nice if more scrollers posted their projects...who knows, maybe it'll become an active sub-forum...
As soon as I start my RBI disassembly and cleaning, I will post description and pics of the process.
look great I was thinking of doing the reindeer Fred that Steve Good had up but have not had time yet. Great job on all
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