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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-22-2010, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Talking New To Scrolling

Hello all! I just found an old Atlas 24" Jig/Scroll Saw on Cr*igslist for $50...it's heavy!
I hope to have it painted up and running in the next week or so.
I thought I would ask and see if any of you are using old iron like this?
Have any of you had one such as this in the past and have since "upgraded" for one or more reasons?
Any info you have would be appreciated.
I'm excited to get into scrolling

One very similar to mine can be viewed at:
OWWM - Atlas Press Co. Serial Number Registry - Jig/Scroll Saw No. 000807

Best Regards,

~Kristofer
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 12:47 AM
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I have an old 24" Delta with the spring head good old machine, made in the USA. I plan to clean it up, make a new strand and use it. It was given to me earlier this year by a friend.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 04:40 AM
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first thing get good blade's here is the link Mike's Workshop selling Flying Dutchman brand fret and scrollsaw blades Also when you start . If you don't know why the saw doesn't saw streight ? The blades are punch out and have blade set only on one side. That is the reason so don't think their is simething wrong with the saw. FYI good luck I use a 18" hagner scroll saw here

del schisler
port st. lucie, florida
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 11:18 PM
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I got an old solid cast iron Foley-belsaw it weighs a ton but it is awesome still have to add oil to it everytime and all that good stuff but the serial number is 128 lol from what ive been able to research they wear hand made but I wouldn't trade it for a new one unless i just cant find parts if needed.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies! I've searched online for information for the type of oil needed for the oil bath. The suggestions range from 10w to 20w to 30w all the way up to 80-90w oil...
Does anyone care to add their opinion? I also thought about going synthetic?

Thanks in advance!

BTW I posted 3 pictures of how it looked as purchased. I hope to have it back together this week and looking good!
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~Kristofer
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 08:58 AM
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Hi Kristofer

I will suggest 30 w non detergent oil, you don't want it form up, the same that many compressor use..

=========
Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaTermite View Post
Thanks for the replies! I've searched online for information for the type of oil needed for the oil bath. The suggestions range from 10w to 20w to 30w all the way up to 80-90w oil...
Does anyone care to add their opinion? I also thought about going synthetic?

Thanks in advance!

BTW I posted 3 pictures of how it looked as purchased. I hope to have it back together this week and looking good!



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 11:15 AM
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Default Oils

Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaTermite View Post
Thanks for the replies! I've searched online for information for the type of oil needed for the oil bath. The suggestions range from 10w to 20w to 30w all the way up to 80-90w oil...
Does anyone care to add their opinion?
I also thought about going synthetic?
You could try used vegetable oil from a local fast food place, so you'd be known as the burgermeister of scrolling.

Somewhere between 10W and 30W, depending on your climate, seems right to me. You want it to lubricate without hindering motion, I'd think.

Synthetic oils are mostly designed for the high-heat environment of engines and such, so I wouldn't see an advantage there. Unless, of course, you replace the motor with that from your router.

[edit]FWIW, I have a '50s-vintage Delta Homecraft scroll saw that I inherited from my father. But, it hasn't been used in decades. So, the oil discussion reminded me that I need to clean out the old oil before attempting to use it. My '80s-vintage Hegner MultiMax-2 has been seeing all the action.

- Ralph

Last edited by Ralph Barker; 10-25-2010 at 11:26 AM.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Default Getting it together...

Thanks for the info, I ended up finding some 30w non-detergent variety at Tractor Supply...
I've got it almost together, but now am struggling to get the blade attached to the top AND bottom chuck...I am not sure if it's all there... I'll try to post some pictures of what IS there and maybe you all can tell me if I am missing something?

(edit) Jerry: Thanks for your good pictures... I noticed the way the blade attaches to yours appears to be different from mine...I think something is just missing on mine...

(edit) Also thanks BJ & Ralph for your oil suggestion...it confirmed what I was already leaning toward...
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~Kristofer

Last edited by FloridaTermite; 10-25-2010 at 04:18 PM.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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I gave up for today and then searched online a bit more and came across an old manual for a similar Atlas jig/scroll saw....it appears I am missing the "floating jaw" shown in the diagram I attached...

I'm going to have to get creative I guess
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~Kristofer
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 07:10 PM
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HI Kristofer

Looking good, some key stock may do the trick,round it on the grinder and test for fit and then heat treat it.. then cut to the right size..but a little bit long.

==========




Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaTermite View Post
I gave up for today and then searched online a bit more and came across an old manual for a similar Atlas jig/scroll saw....it appears I am missing the "floating jaw" shown in the diagram I attached...

I'm going to have to get creative I guess



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 10-25-2010 at 07:14 PM.
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