Scroll Saw - Router Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Dennis
Posts: 8
 
Default Scroll Saw

Hi
I do have my scroll saw bolted down on wood and yes the legs are metal. I table is sitting on a rug also off the floor. I have found pads that are used for furniture legs that are 1/2" thick which the manual calls for so I'm going to try that and see if it stops the vibration. I have been trying different types of vase and they have come out not bad. Some have small areas which were difficult but I managed to get through not bad. I even made bird cage ornaments before Christmas and sold two out of ten that I had. I wish I new how to sell year round on the computer but I'm know computer expert. they were not around in my school days. I bought a new computer and find it difficult. I manage to get want I can do but with who ever designs them they're more for the younger generation. I think they don't care about the older generation...Dennis
dslote is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 11:44 AM
Marine Engineer
 
kp91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Country: United States
First Name: Doug
Posts: 4,494
 
Default

Dennis,

My next suggestion is try a few different types of blades. I use Olson PGT blades, because they seem to work best for me. A lot of other guys use the Flying dutchman blades, but my saw already has an agressive cut, so they were a little hard to control.

I've also had vibration problems when using duller blades, and even worse... when I installed blades upside down!

Hopefully you can find a solution that works for you, without having to upgrade your saw.

Doug
1 John 1:9
Fredericksburg, VA




http://disasterreliefeffort.org/
kp91 is online now  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-26-2014, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Dennis
Posts: 8
 
Default

Hello again
I' using #7 reverse wright now which is not back, but I had to expand my project from 4" to 6". The 4" well I had a problem there. One area was 1/8" and when I tried taking the tape off it broke. So now I'm trying the 6" which gave me another 1/16th. So I'll see how that goes. And thankyou I will keep that in mind...Dennis
dslote is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-26-2014, 01:42 PM
Moderation Team
 
Semipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Country: United States
First Name: John_*
Posts: 6,426
 
Default

Dennis
You did not state what brand scroll saw you are using?
Semipro is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Dennis
Posts: 8
 
Default scroll saw

Hello
The scroll saw I have is a Ryobi 18" with variable speed. The only other problem I'm having lately is the knob, it's round and hard to tighten the blade. I contacted the Ryobi people about it when I saw another Ryobi they had which had a t knob. I asked them about that knob if I could use it on my machine and they said no. If I could find one that would fit it would be get. I find the round knob is hard on the fingers. And I don't think it tightens enough...Dennis

PS: Oh I have been using olson blades. There the only ones I can find around here
dslote is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 11:18 AM
Registered User
 
CharleyL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Charley
Posts: 1,983
 
Default

The smaller and lower priced scroll saws all seem to have this same excessive vibration problem, especially when cutting at higher speeds, and it doesn't seem to matter which brand or model saw. They all seem to be prone to this. The only exception that I know of are the Hegner saws. The larger saws like the DeWalt , Delta, Porter Cable, and Excalibur 18-24" saws vibrate much less and are much easier to use at all speeds.

I own a Delta Q3 and a Dewalt DW788 saw and am very satisfied with their low vibration and how well they will cut at any speed. I have used several of my friend's Excaliber and Hegner saws and I like how well they cut, and I have tried to help some friends with the smaller saws without much success. The best improvement that we made was to bolt a Dremel 16" saw to an 24" square steel plate 3/8" thick. It made quite a difference in reducing the vibration, but it also made the saw too heavy to move easily.

Look online for PGT (Precision Ground Teeth) scroll saw blades for the best cuts. Most of the standard Olson blades that I've tried had more tooth set on one side of the blade than the other and this caused them to cut at an angle and produce a rougher cut. No two of their standard blades ever seemed to cut the same way for me either. Their PGT blades cost a bit more, but produce a much higher quality cut higher quality cut that far outweighs their slightly higher cost. I now use Flying Dutchman PGT blades because I've found their quality to be even higher than the Olsen PGT blades.

Take one of your Ryobi thumb screws from your saw to one of the larger hardware stores (if you have one nearby) that have the specialty parts section. They may have a knob in stock with the same metric thread, but with a wing type handle, but be careful that the new knob doesn't interfere with the operation of your saw. It might also be possible to use socket head cap screws in place of your knobs and then use an Allen wrench to loosen and tighten them.

Charley

Central North Carolina
CharleyL is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-09-2014, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Dennis
Posts: 8
 
Default

Thanks Charley for the advise.
I was working on my scroll saw yesterday. I had no problem cutting around piece, but when I started cutting small areas in side my blades kept coming loose. I worked on it five times tightening the blade but no success. So I gave it up for the rest of the day. I used reverse tooth 2 and 2/0 which the pattern called for. I believe there too small for the clamps to hold on to. I do not no what other blade sizes to use to cut small and curved areas.
dslote is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-09-2014, 12:22 PM
Registered User
 
Gene Howe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Country: United States
First Name: Gene
Posts: 9,558
 
Default

I had some thick (3/8?) rubber floor covering that came out of an Air force maintenance back shop. Used a hole saw to make disks and bolted the saw to a 3/4" cabinet top. It's a Delta. No more vibration.

As to the smaller blades coming loose, I have to make sure they are dead center of the clamps and tighten really tight, or mine come loose also.

Gene Howe
Snowflake, AZ

'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum.
Gene Howe is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-09-2014, 04:24 PM
Registered User
 
CharleyL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Charley
Posts: 1,983
 
Default

When cutting intricate parts it's best to cut the inside areas of your pattern first while the material is stronger. The un-cut outside area stiffens the work and leaves you material to hang onto. When the inside areas are all cut out, then move to the outside of your pattern and cut the excess away. You will be surprised how much better things go for you.

Charley

Central North Carolina
CharleyL is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Dennis
Posts: 8
 
Default inside cut

Hi Charley
I always do inside cuts first. Better grip on the wood. The job I'm doing is Layered songbird coasters and cutting the inside has small areas. When I kept loosening and tightening and changing holes that's when the blade starts to come loose when I start to cut the wood. Perhaps I should work on bigger material.
dslote is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Scroll saw stand question. JOAT Wood Scrolling 15 02-13-2014 03:46 PM
PORTER-CABLE 16" Variable Speed Scroll Saw with Stand Noob Wood Scrolling 18 03-03-2012 06:01 AM
Making a Custom Scroll Saw work surface wbh1963 Wood Scrolling 3 01-29-2012 04:46 PM
Scroll Saw Help CanuckGal Tools and Woodworking 13 04-04-2009 10:00 AM
Help identify scroll saw & Band saw Kristin D Tools and Woodworking 11 11-29-2007 09:11 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome