The little ornaments were designed by Diana Thompson and published some years ago by her through Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts. She recently put out a new version of this book. It's called Compound Christmas Ornaments for the Scroll Saw. Some of the ornaments from the first book are in this one, but there are a whole new bunch of them included in this new version. I just received my copy last Friday, so I doubt I'll be making many of them this year, but I'm already planning to do them next year, probably a few at a time from August on.
The reindeer plan is available free on the internet from Woodworking for engineers
. I have cleaned it up, modified it slightly to suit me, and re-sized it so that the 3" reindeer fits a piece of 1 X 2 stock. A copy is attached of the sheet of reindeer that I print out on my laser printer. Hopefully it will print in the right size for you.
Each reindeer is printed out as two images attached together, a face view and a side view, with a fold line between them. I cut them out and crease them along the fold line, then apply common stationery store rubber cement to a piece of 1 X 2 stock (usually pine) that's about a 1/4" longer than the reindeer image. Don't separate the face and side view. The fold keeps the two images in line with each other. Then I stick the paper reindeer image to the face and the edge of the piece of wood and move the image around it to get the reindeer's feet right at the edge of the block of wood. This is necessary to make him stand up correctly when you have completed cutting him out. Holding the block and pressing here and there all over the image until it sticks and lays smooth and in the right position is necessary. Any air bubbles under the image will cause it to lift off during the cutting process. Let the reindeer and block sit for at least 5 minutes for the glue to dry.
I use a #1R reverse tooth Flying Dutchman blade for cutting these. The Flying Dutchman blades last 2-3 times as long for me than the same size Olsen blades do. I rarely break a Flying Dutchman blade, but you can use whatever blade you choose.
Just be sure it's a small enough blade to take the tight turns around the antlers and neck needed for making these reindeer.
I also have made a clamp to hold the pieces of the reindeer together while I'm cutting them, and I use a similar clamp for cutting the little ornaments. You can see a picture of this clamp on the table of my DeWalt saw. It's just two 3/4 X 1" pieces of cabinet birch plywood about 6" long, two pieces of #10-24 all thread 6 or more inches long, and nuts and wing nuts to fit the all thread. Clamp the two pieces of wood together and perfectly aligned with each other. Mark and drill over size holes through both of the wood strips near the ends with the exposed grain of the plywood positioned facing up and down. Keep the holes in each end at a perfect 90 deg angle to the wood so the pieces can slide easily along the all thread.
Now separate the pieces of wood and put one piece of all thread through each hole just far enough to put a nut on each side of the board. Now tighten these nuts against the board using wrenches. Now slide the second piece of wood onto the long ends of the all thread rods and add washers and wing nuts. You may need to open the all thread rod holes slightly in this board so you can easily slide the board back and forth
on the rods.
You are now ready to clamp the reindeer block between these pieces of wood. To start , I like to cut the face view of the reindeer first, so place the block between the clamps with the face side up and center the block of wood roughly between the all thread rods. Slide the wood strips together and tighten the wing nuts evenly, about as tight as you can get them with your fingers. Thread the blade through the clamp between the antler end of the reindeer block and the all thread rod of the clamp. Lock it into the saw and put tension on it. It will need to be tight. On my Dewalt saw my idea of tight Is to hold down the upper blade arm while tightening the blade screw. Then pull the blade tension lever to 3 1/2. No the blade is ready to cut. If the blade isn't this tight you will not get a proper shaped reindeer.
I like to start at the upper right antler tip and cut all the way down the right side of the reindeer and out of the block at his foot. Then tighten the wing nuts on the blade clamp because they will be loose. They are loose because you have removed wood from the block. Now cut up between the legs and back down and out of the block again. Tightening the wing nuts will not be necessary this time because you have not removed wood from the full length of the block. Now cut up the left side of the reindeer to the top end of his antler and out of the block. Now tighten the wing nuts again. Now cut down the inside of the right antler and back up to the top of the right antler and back out of the block. You are finished cutting the face view of the reindeer. It's best to keep the piece from between the legs and the piece from between the antlers in place for the rest of the cutting.
Now loosen the wing nuts and open the clamp wide. Holding all of the reindeer pieces together and in proper alignment, turn the entire reindeer so his side view is facing up.
Make certain that every piece is in the right place and tighten the clamp wing nuts, again as tight as you can get them with your fingers.
Again, I like to cut clockwise around the reindeer, starting from the top of his right (rear) antler. Again, cut all the way down to his foot and out of the block. Again, tighten the wing nuts. Now cut up between his legs and back out of the block. Again, it's best to keep all of the pieces in place as best as you can. Again, when cutting between the legs you won't need to tighten the wing nuts.
Now cut up along his front leg and around his head, but continue back and forth cutting out each antler, all the way to the point on the last antler where you started.
You have finished cutting him out.
If you have done all of the cutting correctly and kept the clamp tight so no pieces got out of position you can loosen the wing nuts and remove the clamp. You now have kind of a reindeer egg with a lot of loose shell pieces surrounding the reindeer. The reindeer is in the center of the block, but some of the pieces kind of look like a reindeer so don't throw anything away until you have found the real reindeer. The pieces between his antlers and between his legs usually need to be pushed out carefully. I took a 6" long piece of dowel rod, sharpened the ends, and use this to push these pieces out. A pencil will work, but it may leave marks of the reindeer.
I use a jet of compressed air to blow the reindeer off, then look for and remove any fuzzies on their legs, etc. carefully using a very small knife. I then put a tiny black dot
for each eye and a large red dot on his nose (Rudolf) with marking pens.
He is now finished as far as I go with them and he is ready to give away. Most women have a little girl inside who loves to receive little things like these. Little girls old enough to be able to use them safely also love to receive them. Most men (unless they are woodworkers) don't appreciate them at all, so I don't usually bother even trying to give them one.
OK, the reindeer plan for this size reindeer is attached. Cut one reindeer (both face and side images as one, fold the views along the center line between the views, glue him to the block of wood, and have fun. It would be great if I could get more woodworkers cutting these out and giving them away too.