How do I prepare a walnut slice for end table? - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 01:10 AM
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Look into the polyethylene glycol products.

As pointed out, the problem is, you need it dry and drying is its enemy.

If you can replace moisture that is lost as it's lost, you win. That's where the glycol can help. However, it can fight with some finishes.

You can also experiment. Thin some motor oil and apply it, as the wood dries. Be religious about it. The oil swells the wood, just as water does.

Start out with about a 30% thin. When the wood seems to have stabilized, seal it with a poly.

The reason I have what you want is, I never lent it out before.

Scraps are a myth.

Last edited by Dejure; 09-07-2017 at 01:13 AM.
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post #22 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 01:36 AM
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Look into the polyethylene glycol products.

As pointed out, the problem is, you need it dry and drying is its enemy.

If you can replace moisture that is lost as it's lost, you win. That's where the glycol can help. However, it can fight with some finishes.

You can also experiment. Thin some motor oil and apply it, as the wood dries. Be religious about it. The oil swells the wood, just as water does.

Start out with about a 30% thin. When the wood seems to have stabilized, seal it with a poly.
You serious???

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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post #23 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Last night I ordered some canning wax from Amazon (because it's easy to get that way) and I will be applying wax to both sides of my piece of walnut. I'll stash it in an out of the way place and let it sit, and if it does crack up I probably will still use it, as been mentioned here it'll add character. Or it would make nice cutting board pieces (also mention).

What I don't want it to become is an obstacle that I have to keep moving from place to place because it's in the way so I'll have to find a good out of the way place.
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post #24 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 10:46 AM
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Maybe someone can offer some V.o. E. advice, but how about storing it on edge? Still not in direct contact with concrete though.
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post #25 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 11:23 AM
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If that end cut has the pith in it - it will craCK, NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO. Sealing the ends with even latex paint can slow it down, and AnchorSeal is probably the best OTC sealer out there. Expensive. Paraffin or canning wax can help, but with the center of the tree still on the end cut, sorry - you will have at least a very pronounced crack radiating from the pith outwards. As a woodturner of fresh cut locally salvaged wood, I've learned the hard way. It really pithes me off sometimes :-).
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post #26 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bryansong View Post
Last night I ordered some canning wax from Amazon (because it's easy to get that way) and I will be applying wax to both sides of my piece of walnut. I'll stash it in an out of the way place and let it sit, and if it does crack up I probably will still use it, as been mentioned here it'll add character. Or it would make nice cutting board pieces (also mention).

What I don't want it to become is an obstacle that I have to keep moving from place to place because it's in the way so I'll have to find a good out of the way place.
I have never heard of the motor oil thing, but I have used PEG. It is a wood stabilizer and will replace the moisture. All you need is a container big enough for the wood, and PEG. Rockler sells it in granular form. Its safe, it will help keep the piece from checking, splitting etc., and it will be ready to use in a relatively short time period. Soak it in the PEG and your ready to go. The pdf I attached is from 1972, but is the best instructional I have ever seen on the process. I have never used it on a large piece but there is no reason it won't work.
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post #27 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryansong View Post
Last night I ordered some canning wax from Amazon (because it's easy to get that way) and I will be applying wax to both sides of my piece of walnut. I'll stash it in an out of the way place and let it sit, and if it does crack up I probably will still use it, as been mentioned here it'll add character. Or it would make nice cutting board pieces (also mention).

What I don't want it to become is an obstacle that I have to keep moving from place to place because it's in the way so I'll have to find a good out of the way place.
make sure you store it flat, solidly stickered/supported.....
also give it a goodly amount of all around air flow....
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #28 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I have never heard of the motor oil thing, but I have used PEG. It is a wood stabilizer and will replace the moisture. All you need is a container big enough for the wood, and PEG. Rockler sells it in granular form. Its safe, it will help keep the piece from checking, splitting etc., and it will be ready to use in a relatively short time period. Soak it in the PEG and your ready to go. The pdf I attached is from 1972, but is the best instructional I have ever seen on the process. I have never used it on a large piece but there is no reason it won't work.
Bob, thanks, I'll check into it.

Bryan
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post #29 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Adams View Post
I have never heard of the motor oil thing, but I have used PEG. It is a wood stabilizer and will replace the moisture. All you need is a container big enough for the wood, and PEG. Rockler sells it in granular form. Its safe, it will help keep the piece from checking, splitting etc., and it will be ready to use in a relatively short time period. Soak it in the PEG and your ready to go. The pdf I attached is from 1972, but is the best instructional I have ever seen on the process. I have never used it on a large piece but there is no reason it won't work.

Bob, that looks like quite a bit to deal with on this project. I'm just going to wax it and take whatever I get.

Thanks
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post #30 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 03:13 PM
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Bob, thanks, I'll check into it.

Bryan
careful...
no sense square dancing in a mine field...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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