Acclimating to my shop - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 04:23 PM
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I agree with both you guys; mine is a pin type and that stops me from using it sometimes when I should! I just hate to put holes in a planed surface.
In theory at least you'd think you'd be able to come up with a meter that has cables allowing a user to check the continuity/resistance right through the thickness of a piece of wood, ie front to back(?).
Wouldn't that be more accurate than across the face side? Also, for more accuracy, one would need a sample of the specific species of wood, dried of course, as a reference reading.
My gut feeling, having used mine for years to determine 'condo rot' issues, is that they're just an indicator. They seem to be more accurate at the lower end of the scale.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 04:26 PM
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*Wait...* It just dawned on me; I can do that with mine...it has cabled probes! I'm going to try that. Not at the moment...it's raining out there and the fireplace is on in here.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 08:05 AM
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If I remember correctly, and there's that chance I'm not these days, the meter calculates based on resistance and type of material. The thickness of the board will certainly have an affect on reading I would think. A 4/4 board versus a 8/4 board may read the same or close surface % but at the center may be a fair bit different. A thought would be to cut an end piece and read that freshly cut piece at different depths, especially the thicker boards but then I think it does matter between ends and center as I would expect it to dry faster at the open ends. So then I think maybe rough cutting the boards allowing for movement would allow more accurate readings and also allow the wood to acclimate faster if needed. Now this may be mindless ramblings but in my mind (don't go there if not absolutely necessary) it makes sense to me.

I also have to wonder if different woods expand/shrink differently depending on the species? So what is rule of thumb here? Do you acclimate based on a set range or by the average humidity of where the piece will be placed. What do fine furniture makers use as they have no idea where their products will end up? I suspect they have an acceptable range % and use joints that are most likely not to fail but then again that's all speculation on my part.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by sreilly View Post

I also have to wonder if different woods expand/shrink differently depending on the species? So what is rule of thumb here? Do you acclimate based on a set range or by the average humidity of where the piece will be placed. What do fine furniture makers use as they have no idea where their products will end up? I suspect they have an acceptable range % and use joints that are most likely not to fail but then again that's all speculation on my part.
you asked...

.
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf MOISTURE CONTENT AND MOVEMENT.pdf (236.7 KB, 29 views)
File Type: pdf Wood Moves, Get Over It.pdf (575.9 KB, 30 views)
File Type: pdf CHARACTERISTICS OF WOOD and DEALING WITH THEM.pdf (485.9 KB, 37 views)
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 08:12 AM
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I use a lot of Walnut that has to be re-sawed to get the boards I want. I usually saw the boards to oversize and before planing, I place "stickers" between the boards and let them acclimate to the garage for around two weeks. I use the Timber Check Moisture Meter shown below. Here is a link to where it can be purchased and a picture below.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Comprotec-Can...9519488&chn=ps

The pins on the moisture meter are not a problem because I check the boards before planing or at the ends. You will see that this unit is more expensive, but I wanted a meter that I could trust to give me accurate results. I have had it for many years.

I have just had my first problem with wood swelling. I completed a blanket chest which can be seen in one of my posts. I took off the lid and removed the bottom boards so my friends could carry the chest from the garage to the house. They were out about 2 days. When I tried to put the bottom boards back, they had swelled by approximately 1/16". I have not yet put the last board in. I am trying to see if it will dry out enough to insert with out taking to the garage and removing 1/16".

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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 08:18 AM
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you asked...

.
Well I should have known....Stick always has the scoop. This will be interesting and informative reading. Thanks Stick.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 08:19 AM
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I use the Timber Check Moisture Meter s

Frank
it is a good one...

Timber Check™ Moisture Meter - Lee Valley Tools

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 10:51 AM
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I don't like checking boards from the end because they just about have to dry out quicker than the bulk of the board. And that's one reason I got a pinless meter - I can check anywhere and not put pin marks in the wood. I know the pin type is more accurate, although the way technology keeps advancing that may not always be the case.

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Reading all of the posts, along with Stick's great detail, has given me an idea. The Walnut lumber for the table top is 8/4 and 9 feet long. Since the boards are rough sawn, I used a hand plane on part of the board to see what the figure looked like. More like skip planing. I'll do the same to the rest of the board. I ordered the pinless meter that I referenced in post #9 and it'll be here Sunday. If I can use the whole board, I'll wait until the moisture readings are the same on both sides of the board and consistent for a day or two. Then I'll cut the board into 3' lengths which is the rough cut for the 33" final boards. I'll then take a reading across each of the 4 cut ends to see how the moisture varies across the cut. Based on that I'll either resaw each piece to end up with the 6 boards I need for the top or wait a bit longer. The question is, since I don't expect the moisture reading to be the same across the entire cut, how much of a difference is acceptable before resawing?

Once I do resaw, I'll let he boards rest for a few days before the final milling and glue up.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Stick - I copied the 3 pdf's to my woodworking library on my PC. Two of them are good but the MOISTURE CONTENT AND MOVEMENT pdf has the right side of the page cut off. I don't know if it's me or the pdf. Would you please check that and, if it's not me, please repost it. Thanks.
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