Raw walnut slabs - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Default Raw walnut slabs

I got some freshly cut black walnut from a guy down the street. Mostly the edges but some cuttoffs and some slabs. See attached pics.

The question is how do I cure it for the best results? My plan is to cut it into small pieces for projects once it is cured.

I live in the high desert so very low humidity and fairly dry winters. I am thinking just stack it in my crawl space and leave it for a couple years...?

Realy don't have a clue as I have never delt with fresh cut hardwood.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009, 12:48 AM
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My dad dried his own Oak. He stacked it under a metal roof to keep the rain and snow off. He stickered it, pieces of 1x1 between each board for air flow, and let it dry until he almost used up what he had in the basement. Then he took some and stacked it in the basement the same way, covered it with plastic and ran a heat duct to it thru the winter. This did a pretty good job of drying it. Not like Kiln dried, but almost. I did shrink and expand with the seasons on the doors he made for his basement storage cabinets. Ther is something you can paint on the ends of the boards to keep them from cracking as they dry but I can't remember what it's called. Hope this helps.BTW he lived in central Wisconsin.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009, 12:55 AM
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Mike, here is an article from finewoodworking.com on how to air dry lumber. You have to be a member to view the PDF, but they have a 14 day free trial you can use to view the article. I'm certain there are even more articles there on this subject, but this was just the first one I found while searching.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009, 01:26 AM
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On the ends just use paint, anything to seal the ends. When you stack the lumber, the 1x1 separators’ need to be directly under one another that is so the weight is transferred directly to the ground and not on another board causing it to warp. Air drying will get it to about 12% kiln drying will get it to 8% but will rise when taken out of kiln to about 12%, at least here in Georgia that is the case. I am just learning about this and will know more after next week.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2009, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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Default drying

Thanks guys

I will get something on the ends and get it stickered. I have a larg walk area under my house so I will put it in there. Dirt floor but stays dry and well above freezing in the winter.

I will look at that artical. I have been meaning to take the free trial and look at there hand cut dove tail vidio.

Jerry, you said you will know more next week. Are you taking a class or what? I will look forward to hearing what you learn.

Thank
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2009, 10:44 PM
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Mike, you may have all ready seen these, but theres a good hand cut dovetail video on this page. Along with 40 other videos,and there all free.

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/category/podcast/

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2009, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Rusty, I did see that one. I appreciate the tip, always looking for more.

It's interesting see everyones little bit different way of doing it and then trying to make sense of it all. I started cutting some and it didn't come out bad. I like marking them kind of by eye and just picking an angle and a spacing that looks good.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2009, 06:00 PM
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Doesn't it take a long large time to air dry ?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-07-2009, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Duane

I was hopeing to figute out how long from somebody hear.

I am thinking at least a couple years.

Mike
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-07-2009, 08:50 PM
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I'm sticker drying some maple and was told to expect at least 1 year of drying time per inch

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