Anyone ever use a router on dymondwood. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-03-2009, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Default Anyone ever use a router on dymondwood.

Hello, I'm free hand routing templates out of dymondwood and I'm having terrible tear out. I'm using a new bit and have slowed the speed down but it's still happening.
What particular techniques should I use when free hand routing?

I sand down to 1/8" of the edge, climb cut to 1/16", then make a final pass to clean up the edge. But it's hit and miss.
Does anyone have any advise on how I could be more consistant?
Anyone ever work with dymondwood before?
Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-03-2009, 01:54 PM
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Welcome, Dusty..

I haven't worked with that product before, so I'll leave it to others answer. I have ideas, but would be guessing. We've got great experts here.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-03-2009, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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I hope so Big Jim. It's getting pretty expensive ruining pieces.
I just came back in from another frustrating session in the garage.
Pieces are flying off of the table so much I should put up a goal net to catch them.
I think I'll try to use a shear cut bit. Hopefully it will do a better job
by slicing rather than chopping.
If that doesn't work I'll have to pony up the funds for a spiral cutter.
I'm hoping I wont have to but it may be cheaper in the long run.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-03-2009, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty D View Post
I hope so Big Jim. It's getting pretty expensive ruining pieces.
I just came back in from another frustrating session in the garage.
Pieces are flying off of the table so much I should put up a goal net to catch them.
I think I'll try to use a shear cut bit. Hopefully it will do a better job
by slicing rather than chopping.
If that doesn't work I'll have to pony up the funds for a spiral cutter.
I'm hoping I wont have to but it may be cheaper in the long run.
Dusty,
I have no experience with that type of wood either, but I have found that buying/using cheap tools will end up costing you more than if you get the best you can afford to start with.

George
Fort Worth, Texas
City where the west begins.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-03-2009, 04:54 PM
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Dusty,
+1 on quality bits especially if you're having problems with less.

I have no experience with that type of wood either, but I have found that buying/using cheap tools will end up costing you more than if you get the best you can afford to start with.
That's where i was going to head too, George.. I'd try a Whiteside spiral bit. Expensive but spiral sure will help and IMO, Whiteside makes the best bits.

I was just hoping someone would come in with something simple... like rubbing banana peel on the bit or ????

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-03-2009, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the lead on the Whiteside bit BigJim.
They seem pretty affordable compared to the other spiral bits I've priced.
I think they would work pretty well for making the templates.
It's too bad they only have the bearing on the tip.
They may only postpone the solution to the origional problem though because once the template is made I still need to shape another piece
of dymondwood off of the template.

Can anyone chime in on their experience in the difference between a straight cut bit and a shear cut bit?
I'm hoping I can reduce the bit grabbing by slicing rather than chopping.

A few more posts and I can post some pics of what I'm talking about.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-03-2009, 08:44 PM
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MLCS solid carbide router bits
Spiral Flush Trim Router Bit
MLCS solid carbide router bits

========


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty D View Post
Thanks for the lead on the Whiteside bit BigJim.
They seem pretty affordable compared to the other spiral bits I've priced.
I think they would work pretty well for making the templates.
It's too bad they only have the bearing on the tip.
They may only postpone the solution to the origional problem though because once the template is made I still need to shape another piece
of dymondwood off of the template.

Can anyone chime in on their experience in the difference between a straight cut bit and a shear cut bit?
I'm hoping I can reduce the bit grabbing by slicing rather than chopping.

A few more posts and I can post some pics of what I'm talking about.



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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered a Amana #47094 bit today.
(I'd add a link but I don't have enough posts yet.)

I can use it for template and pattern cutting and hopefully the shear cut
will take care of the grabbing and tear out.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty D View Post
Thanks for the lead on the Whiteside bit BigJim.
They seem pretty affordable compared to the other spiral bits I've priced.
I think they would work pretty well for making the templates.
It's too bad they only have the bearing on the tip.
They may only postpone the solution to the origional problem though because once the template is made I still need to shape another piece
of dymondwood off of the template.

Can anyone chime in on their experience in the difference between a straight cut bit and a shear cut bit?
I'm hoping I can reduce the bit grabbing by slicing rather than chopping.

A few more posts and I can post some pics of what I'm talking about.
Dusty,

If you need the bearing for template work, would it be feasible to create an oversized template using a router guide bushing instead of a bearing and then using the same bushing to cut original-sized pieces in dymondwood?

Guides aren't always the solution but sometimes they greatly simplify the problem. When used in a plunge router, you can place the guide in place before lowering the bit.

If on the other hand, you have a 1/2" long cutter with a 1/4" bearing above it and are trying to use a 1/2" thich template to cut 1/2" thick stock with a plunging cut, you're likely to nick the template or cut out away from the template.

With bushings, you normally just use straight bits, reducing the collection of specialty bits.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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I tried to use a straight cut but the dymondwood is a really tough laminate. The straight cut bit just digs into it and sends it across the garage.
I'm hoping the down shear cut will slice it rather than chop it.
I'll find out friday or saturday when it gets here.

In the meantime I'll just mess around with my mill.
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