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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Default cutting blow down maple?

Hello

I have a chance at some maple from a buddy. Question is what part of tree produces the best grain pattern?

The small stuff is gone but there is about 12' from the roots up, about 3' across, and a piece about 10' long and 2' across that had several branchs coming off it.

I have limited space to store as I already have some walnut drying. Regular maple is relativly cheap so like to use my limited space to get the best grains I can.

Anybody milled this befor? Appreciate the help.

Thanks
Mike
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 05:54 PM
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Hi Mike

Call 4 or 5 mates up and have them give you a hand loading it up on a trailer or use a eng. cherry picker to load it ,take it down to a lumber mill and them cut it up for you, then pick it up and stack it for a year or so..

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Hello

I have a chance at some maple from a buddy. Question is what part of tree produces the best grain pattern?

The small stuff is gone but there is about 12' from the roots up, about 3' across, and a piece about 10' long and 2' across that had several branchs coming off it.

I have limited space to store as I already have some walnut drying. Regular maple is relativly cheap so like to use my limited space to get the best grains I can.

Anybody milled this befor? Appreciate the help.

Thanks
Mike



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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 06:05 PM
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It all depends on where the tree was growing. If it was in someones' yard, you may not find a sawyer willing to risk a blade to saw it up.
They don't like nails, screws, etc. coming near those blades.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 06:18 PM
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Hey Mike... sounds like you have access to a few board feet of maple *S* this is a good thing. Rule of thumb is anything below the first branch should provide clean wood. Crotch wood, where the tree branches out can be extremely attractive, but very difficult to work with.

Avoid branch wood if at all possible. Branch wood tends to be stressed, even after drying can have a tendency to twist and/or cup. Not that this isn't workable wood,
but can require a big time investment.

With a little bit of luck, you might find some nicely figured wood in that tree...
good luck...
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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I can't afford to have it milled now so probably cut it into managable pieces with my chain saw and let it dry. I will finish it on the band saw in a couple years when it is dry.

I will hopefully have a bigger bandsaw by then.

"avoid branch wood" do you mean where the tree branchs out or the branchs themselfs?

Thanks all
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 08:31 PM
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Mike... branch wood, primarily the branches themselves. If you can do it, cut your wood 2-3 inches thick. rule of thumb is that it takes about 1 year per inch of thickness. If you can sit on it for a couple years, then resaw it. Sticker the wood, rotate couple times a year, keep covered. and keep an eye out for bugs and beetles getting into the bark and wood. I usually just skin my wood (remove the bark) before airing out. There are many who prefer air dried lumber over kiln...
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 08:30 AM
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I cut a maple down (Silver) last year it did cost some to get it cut up I think 75.00 hr and 10.00 for each nail my garage is full with drying lumber IMHO its the way to go here its selling for 9.00 something a bf I got somewhere round 4000 bf from the tree.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by drasbell View Post
I cut a maple down (Silver) last year it did cost some to get it cut up I think 75.00 hr and 10.00 for each nail my garage is full with drying lumber IMHO its the way to go here its selling for 9.00 something a bf I got somewhere round 4000 bf from the tree.

+1, absolutely!!

It's rather kinda cool to be able to have a little bit of 'history' of the wood behind the project.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 10:02 AM
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Since you have a chainsaw, buy the attachment and mill it yourself? Not too terribly expensive. HF or Northern Tool has these.

Just a few links, they have a few more on the web site, you'll see them if you look.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._152334_152334

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_22874_22874

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...6891_200316891

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 10:15 AM
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Thats the ticket Ken!! Never used one myself but would love to have one! Limited only by bar size length/size.

damn I wish I was born wealthy instead of so good lookin..
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