I’ve been working with Stick on making saddles for my shop. Here are some pics of the pieces to make an 8x6 saddle with some guiding tips written on the sheet metal.
I will be making templates and better instructions on these, but decided to get these rudimentary photos while I was in my shop. More refined photos, instructions and templates to follow.
I was thinking that with solder you could seal the joint in one step. Clean it thoroughly, rivit to hold in place, then flux, then solder with a propane torch.
I'm not a fan of caulk in DC piping.
One other question, could you use a nibbling tool to cut that ovoid opening?
I was thinking that with solder you could seal the joint in one step. Clean it thoroughly, rivet to hold in place, then flux, then solder with a propane torch.
completely forgot about the hazards of heating/soldering/welding galvanized steel...
BTDT, once, in a former life...
never again...
vaporized zinc coating, and if you breathe in the smoke/fumes, absolutely raises Hades w/ the kidneys and sinuses...
it's called ''Metal Fume Fever''... you will become one sick puppy... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever
I ask because thin 30 ga pipe does not hold up well for dust collection and that pipe looks quite thin in your photos. 26 ga pipe would survive dust collection, but would be much more difficult to cut and shape. The 30 ga works well in heating and ventilation ducts because the flow is an outward positive pressure, but does not do well when it's subjected to vacuum. It implodes. You also want the joints to be as smooth as possible inside, so the air and dust can move freely and without restrictions or rough surfaces inside that cause turbulence.
sounds like splitting hairs on the turbulence
just the same..
I wouldn't consider using 30GA...
I have no issues working w/ 24/26GA....
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