I’m tired of tripping over the flex pipe from the DC , so I was going to go with the 4” flex piping I have now from my General DC to a 4” vertical section of ABS secured to the wall ,
then I read you should use two 45 degree pieces to make the 90 degree turn less aggressive at the top where it turns .
My question is , it would look prettier if I went right to the 10’ ceiling height with pipe before I dropped back down at the end of the table saw ,but I’m wondering if having such a high piece of tubing would give me less performance?
I could use hangers and have the 4” ABS at 6.5 feet instead , as I could still walk underneath it , but I think that would look strange ?
The DC is going to be located to the side of the table saw , but against the wall .
I was at WP, and I found out the outside coupler on a 4” piece of ABS fits the flex hose he sold me before ,as I was concerned about size issues .
Not sure how I’m going to build the piping where it comes out of my saw , and hoping I can use a 4” ABS 90 . I’m also going to need a splitter on the table saw pipe so that I can get suction on an overhead arm I bought from SawStop for on top of the blade.
First suggestion, Rick, is to pick your feet up when you walk over the flex hose. :wink: I have two 4" hoses on the floor and step over them all the time.
What HP is your DC? Does it have the power to add the extra length and vertical rise piping?
Pick your feet up :lol:
I just find it a nuisance is all . Best case scenario would be a dust collection system build right under the tablesaw extension.
I would think that if you have sufficient replacement air at the saw that you can maintain the velocity needed for the lift. The dust particles will rely on velocity of air to keep moving rather than suction/vacuum. Once they get to the lateral run and down run to the DC, they don't have a chance. Whatever you do, don't seal the saw too much...
I'll be doing the same thing in my garage...up 9 1/2', lateral for about 15 and then down to the DC. And I don't think I'm going for a raised floor...:surprise:...I'll be using 6" ducting...
It’s cheap too, but not sure how well the bag filters out the dust .
It could be located directly under the table saws extension.
Seeing as it would be connected up almost directly, maybe 600 cfm would be enough?
Update
This 13" x 24" bag is an ideal replacement for the KC-1105C. It filters saw dust and debris 35 microns and larger.
Rick I don't want to sound ignorant but the unit you have is a portable one it seems. Why pipe out at all if you don't need to. This unit has wheels, yes? The shorter the run the better airflow you'll likely maintain but one other thing I seldom see talked about is keeping the impeller clean. My studies in HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) taught me that a dirt laden fan has a reduced airflow. I'm not saying you need to wipe it down after every use but at least a couple of times a year I would think. There are charts showing air curve performances and the flow clearly reduces with dirt on the blades. Just saying. Also as far as the bags filtering capabilities, check with the manufacturers for specs. Most have accessory bags with lower rating available as well. I know my old Shopsmith vac had like 3 choices, 7, 5, and 1 micron filter hoods. My CV1800 5HP delivers 1,701 with the 16" impeller and filters at .5 micron to 99.99%.
If you do decide to pipe it out use 2-45's to make a 90 degree turn if you can't find long radius ells and use wyes for the takeoff from the primary line, not tees. Make transitions as far from the equipment as you can and eliminate as many turns as possible. I can't say for your unit but the CV1800 required a minimum 6' pipe before entering the separator for stable air flow. And of course if piped you'll want blast gates so only the tool being used is getting all the air flow.
My shop is narrow, and found that the flexible ducting laying on the floor was dangerous as a trip hazard. So I modified a Harbor freight DC, and use ceiling drops to my tools. I used 5" ducts for the main runs reduced to 4" at the tools. I violated the DC rules by using 90's for the drops and corners (to save money). The longest duct run is 41', and drops from an 11' ceiling. I added a Dust Deputy and eliminated the filter by exhausting outside. Using a using a handheld anemometer, I have 1125 cfm at the DC, and an average of 640 cfm at each of the 3 drops. The system does a reasonable job, barely. If I were to do it over I would buy a larger DC, but not change the duct layout.
Your saw will cut slivers of pieces off at times and with a wide insert they'll go down into the cavity. These tend to get hung up after a while and plug the saw up so keep in mind that you'll need to be able to clear jams from time to time. I agree with Nick's statement to step over. My saw has the same issue but the piping is on the side I don't walk over constantly so I've learned to step over. If I could just train my son to do it and stop kicking the pipe off it would be perfect. You could also make a ramp over it.
If you're going up and over consider using an HVAC elbow. They come as a radiused bend and you twist the different sections to give you the angle that you need. Once done apply that metal foil tape for metal pipe runs to all the joints. I used all metal pipe on my system to make it easy to ground. The high velocity air and particles create static electricity. The solution for all plastic piping is to run a wire down the pipe. Lee Valley has a grounding kit in their DC parts I think.
I have thought of going with tin , but don’t see it implemented often. I’m almost debating to just keep stepping over the pipe , as I suspect these smaller systems are not really designed for overhead , as their too small .
Especially after seeing that cyclone system. WD does have theirs overhead, but I can’t remember what they use for a DC
I think having the piping go straight up to the ceiling shouldn't affect it much. But, I can see why you're concerned about it looking a bit off. To be safe, you could always use hangers to keep the piping at a more manageable height. That way, you can still walk underneath it and it'll look neat and tidy. When it comes to the 90-degree turn, I get it about wanting to avoid an aggressive bend. Using two 45-degree pieces sounds like a good solution. Also, if you ever have any pipe issues, sewer pipe relining is a great solution that can save you time and money compared to traditional repiping methods.
Welcome @DanaLowe. This is a pretty old string. I've found that connectors for DC units are not always accurate so fitting odd sizes together is incredibly annoying and you wind up with a lot of aluminum duct tape to seal the system. Also, I can't recall the source anymore, but it stated that in airflow tests, 90 degree connectors lose a significant amount of fow on a 90 degree turn. Better to use 2 45s, or a pipe coming in at an angle (Like a Y which goes off at a 45. Add a second 45 to make a 90);
Here are some samples. Don't forget you can use metal curves which allow you to crimp the ends, insert and then duct tape (with the shiny aluminum tape) to seal them up. No leaks!
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