You see Rob, there are several differences between our two methods, whilst a dial vernier is never out of my hand when using my metal lathe, I never use anything like that when making pens and I have found that so long as the finished product LOOKS good, it is going to look good to the recipients. As for finishing, on wood I only use one coat of Shellawax followed by one coat of Ultrashine. A few days ago I got feedback from an accountant that I gave a pen to several months ago (onto second re-fill) and she told me that it's used all day and feels great to use and looks like when I gave it to her.
It was from seeing other members methods plus some experimenting that I ended up with my present methods, so you see, it is important for members to post photo shoots, it's so true that a picture is worth a thousand words.
I'm too cheap to buy myself a good digital camera. The one I have is about $25 or $30 and was just to document a few items for insurance and a larger project I'm working on for my sister and new nephew. I'd rather spend the money on good wood for a project.
So far I've only done two finishing methods. One was using the Mylands sealer and friction polish at the pen-turning class I took one evening. But I wanted to spend a little bit less on getting started so I took a chance on the BLO/CA method. I already had everything for BLO/CA except I've purchased a second, larger bottle of CA for $7. For the same cheapskate reason I'm only turning pens from wood I already have, not going to buy any blanks, at least for the short term.
Like I said, I'm torture testing a blank by carrying it around with pocket change. And I have one pen that I'm using as a daily writter. But I know that my skin is pretty dry and the oil isn't particuarly acidic. Other people are going to be murder on the finish.
And I'd expect the plating to give out on the less expensive types before the finish fails.
As to using the micrometer, yeah I know it's wood and wood moves but unless a person has quite a lot of nerve damage in their hands, they should be able to feel a 0.01" ridge and quite possibly a 0.005" ridge. If I get the diameter of the wood and the hardware to within 0.005" that means the ridge can be 0.0025" on average and should be below the threshold of sensitivity.
Or I may just punt the whole thing and trust the bushings but from the small sample set I've checked, that may not be the best idea. Also read that some of the more hardcore pen makers are using Delrin to make their own bushings.
What did you think of the YouTube presentation on the CA finish? Over on the right side should be Russ Fairfield's presentation too. Pretty similar but some differences. So far, the WOY method has worked fine for me but I've got a statistically insignifican sample set.