Bowl blanks. - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 06:44 PM
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They say Weldbond is non-toxic but they also recommend not eating it.

I would be willing to bet Titebond has the same recommendation not to eat their glue.

Titebond III is waterproof and Weldbond is not waterproof so it would probably not be good for use if the item will be used around liquids.

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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JFPNCM View Post
The puff on their web site leads one to think that Weldbond is food safe. Your thoughts on that Stick. I know Titebond III is so that is what I’ve been using for boards and bowls.

I can go w/ their word...
I've been using it for decades and like the longer extended assembly time and versatility...
it is water proof..
and the thing that shines about WB is that it doesn't plasticize when warmed up like TB does and separate...
dried TB is heat soluble...
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 09:11 PM
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Mike, Stick: Appreciate the feedback,thanks. I will give it a go.

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 11:03 PM
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I have researched about glue and use the TiteBond III for most wood working in general. For segmented turning I use the original (Red) Titebond. The reason is the original Titebond is more flexible when dried than TItebond III. Titebond III is more brittle than I and during turning that is important. The shock of the turning process what counts. Later if the project is dropped the Titebond I is less likely to fail because it is more flexible. The WB brand is also a good choice but my experience with segmented turning is use Titebond Original.

The Titebond III is water proof but not for below the waterline. The Titebond I and II are water resistant but not water proof. So for outdoor projects use Titebond III, indoor use any. The Titebond III has about double open time over I and II. As with all PVA glues you better get your ducks in a row before starting gluing. Clamps ready, adjusted and sized properly. A dry run is always best because (from experience) if the part is too big to fit and you have glue all over it you are SOL.

I have bought blanks from EBAY and are usually about 20% moisture when I have gotten them. Turn your project but wait a week or two before finishing. You can also put a bowl blank in the microwave to dry but you run the risk of cracking it. If you use the microwave method do it slowly, several sessions in a day and DO NOT microwave the bowl for a long time in one go. That will almost surely crack a bowl as well as possibly burn it.

You have to use a moisture meter if you short cut the drying process, otherwise let nature take its course over months of sitting in conditioned environment.
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 11:31 AM
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Interesting. Looking for something else, and found this tidbit on
Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is the first one-part, water cleanup wood glue ever offered that is proven waterproof. The waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature. Titebond III is non-toxic, solvent free and cleans up with water - safer to use than traditional waterproof wood glues. It provides strong initial tack, sands easily without softening and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards). The ultimate in wood glues - ideal for both interior and exterior applications.

So, apparently indirect food contact means cutting boards.
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 07:32 AM
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What ever glue you use here is a good tip on getting it ready to turn.
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 11:41 AM
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I've been turning for only about 2 years so my experience acquiring bowl blanks is all over the place. I have gotten bowl blanks . . .

-Purchasing them from a Woodcraft Store - some are drier than others but mostly dry enough to do final turning without further drying.
-Buying bowl blanks online-again dried enough to just turn without further drying
-Purchased some partially dried blanks from another turner who acquires and buys logs which he saws up into blanks
-Free wood from a Woodworking Club fellow member which isn't dried and must be coated so that it doesn't just split apart.
-Glued up blanks from scrap hardwood in my shop-Glued in various configurations. You can get some interesting designs by gluing up blanks orienting the grain in various directions in each layer. You still see glue lines but it becomes part of the design.

As for drying...

-Any wood that is still green or not dry enough I coat with AnchorSeal (a water based sealer that just gets brushed on); at least all end grain but safer if the whole blank is coated. That keeps the moisture in till you're ready to turn the bowl.
-I purchased a Dry Fast kit from Rockler awhile back. It includes a pail with a sealed cover and silica beads which absorb moisture and can be regenerated in the oven after they have absorbed moisture (turn pink). It works well with green wood - rough turning a bowl, then submersion in the beads for a couple of days, then final turning. However, the pail will only work for bowls about 9" or less in diameter. The concept will work for larger bowls but you will need your own container and more beads. Anyway, so far, I've had excellent success with it. However, if you're looking for a system which will handle a large volume of bowls, this isn't it.

There are a number of online stores that sell both green and kiln dried blanks. However, you are, more or less, stuck with whatever they send you in the wood and size you ordered. One of them, seems to be fairly reasonable and the blank quality isn't bad.
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