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Fold down router table

20K views 21 replies 17 participants last post by  GusGustin  
#1 ·
My shop space is limited and I have always used a small 24" wide portable router table that I just set on top of my work table when I needed it. While designing a new work table I decided it would be convenient to combine a router table extension that could fold out of the way when not in use.

The work table is 24" x 36" x 34" tall and rides on four locking casters. The table top is extends to 54" long with the router leaf raised and supported by two arms. The main table top is 1 1/2" thick with a top layer of masonite hardboard. The router table is 1 1/4" thick with a top layer of formica and pivots on two arms held in place by 1/4" cabinet bolts which screw into threaded inserts in the main table top.

The router table is supported by two triangular brackets when in the raised position. Each bracket is held in place by a 1/4" hanger bolt and a 1/4" steel pin which was made by cutting the head off of a bolt. A quick release knob locks the bracket in place when the table extension is raised.

The front of the table cabinet has shelves and will eventually have drawers in the large open area on the left. The back of the cabinet has pegboard storage for my table saw miter gauge, the router table fence, various push blocks, and other stuff that never had a real home and were constantly moved from place to place.

I installed a Kreg plate in the router table extension and since my Dewalt router has both a plunge and fixed base, the fixed base is attached to the router plate. The motor is kept in the plunge base when I'm not using the table. I was able to scavenge the router table fence and on / off switch from the Ryobi portable table I had been using.

My old work table was just a piece of 3/4" x 24" x 36" pine that rested x-shaped legs. It was convenient and I've used it for many years but it wasn't all that sturdy. This new table gives me a strong, stable work surface that can be extended to 54" as well making table mounted routing much more convenient. Plus, the table can be easily wheeled around the shop when necessary.
 

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#4 · (Edited)
#8 ·
Very nice...more ideas, less time...

I wonder what a router table would look like if it incorporated everyone's ideas...hmmm...

:)
 
#11 ·
Good job,Oliver, Very creative and well thought out, and simple too. I think you will find that you will utilize it just as much as added table top space for assembling as for routing. One thing about the open below any chips not caught in the vacuum will be on the floor easy to sweep up and not into the shelves below as in a conventional table.
I like those cabinet bolts very handy and versatile. They even make them with wood threads too.

You are going to get lots of use out of that table,and enjoy every minute of it.
Herb
 
#12 ·
very nice and functional Oliver. :smile: I will apply this to my future side, infeed and outfeed support systems...
specially the hinge assembly and your collapsible bracket. I have questions though, for both:
1) the thing where the bolt is screwed on, is it another type of insert? [I may try to use either an ordinary threaded insert or t-nut, if I can't find this type]
2) on the collapsible bracket, will a cross bracket [as in truss system] provide more strength?
 
#14 ·
@Pandai

1) the thing where the bolt is screwed on, is it another type of insert? [I may try to use either an ordinary threaded insert or t-nut, if I can't find this type]
2) on the collapsible bracket, will a cross bracket [as in truss system] provide more strength?
Any insert will work, Edil. I chose the ones with a shoulder because when I combined it with a washer I have metal-on-metal contact as the hinge moves.

My bracket is not collapsible. It is a fixed bracket that stores under the fold down table when not in use. A truss-type backet may provide more strength but I'm not sure how necessary that may be.

.
 

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#15 ·
another 1st class methodology Oliver..

could you piano hinge those two brackets to the table???
place the hinges to the inside side of the bracket and fold the brackets in when not in use...
also add a flat neoprene faucet washer to the top of the elevator bolt... vibration and wear dampening...
drill a pocket hole into the bottom of the table to receive the elevator bolts as retainers/holds for the brackets...
 
#17 ·
could you piano hinge those two brackets to the table??? place the hinges to the inside side of the bracket and fold the brackets in when not in use...

Yep. That was my original idea but they are too long and would overlap each other creating a problem.

also add a flat neoprene faucet washer to the top of the elevator bolt... vibration and wear dampening...

Hmmm. Might be nice idea.

drill a pocket hole into the bottom of the table to receive the elevator bolts as retainers/holds for the brackets...

Another part of the plan, just haven't done it yet.As usual, Stick, great minds think alike.
 
#19 ·
Do you set up any dust collection? (When not using the fence)
Nope, my alternate dust collection is the floor. I think something like the Rockler router table dust collector could be made to work but it requires a 4" dust collection system and my dust collection is based on a shop vac which isn't powerful enough.
 
#20 ·
Just an added thought . When I used those cabinet bolts on my Harp project, I found out I needed a couple of longer ones so I got them from IKEA spare parts window,(no Charge) and when I got home and put them in they were metric,as opposed to the standard thread on the inserts. I searched all the hardware stores for metric inserts to not find any. So I ended up tapping out the standard thread to metric equivalent and then both metric and standard worked in the same inert nut.
Herb