Hello na Glad that You found us. If You can give us a bit more input, it might help. Also, where Your name should be, Your page says n/a. It may be helpful if You could add Your name and where Your from, I believe that You will get more information.We do not know what country Your from. Thank You!

 

Hi Mike - Welcome to the forum
For joinery - Half laps are quick, simple, strong and stable. would be my preference.
What concerns me about your plan is 1/2" plywood spans 6 ft. long and 22" deep. My guess is you will get a bunch of sag. For that long a span, 3/4 would be much better. You may try this little calculator to aid in our planning:
The Sagulator - Shelf Sag Calculator

 

Mike,

You don't say what you're going to put on these shelves, so its tough to answer but I strongly recommend you follow John's advice and check the sagalator. You'd get about 1/8" of sag (recommended max) with just 9 lbs evenly distributed on the shelf. To get 30lb/ft you'd need two laminated layers of 3/4" plywood with that span.

Look carefully at what you need for distance between verticals because 6' is quickly gets unrealistic even with 3/4" plywood. If you really need 6' spans I'd consider running angle iron front and back and placing the plywood on top.

 

Greetings and welcome to the router forum. Thank you for joining us.

 

Keep in mind that 10 foot shelves will require a set stool to reach the top shelves. Use sturdy material for the shelves. The guy that built the shelves in my house used particle board then had to nail a 2x4 on the bottom to keep then from sagging. This cuts down on the space between shelves by the thickness of the 2x4.

 

built something similar although along the wall in my garage, The front has 8' vertical 2x4's with the 1-1/2" facing out and the horizontal members are notched into them for half the depth - i.e. the notches are 3-1/2" high x 3/4" deep. The verticals were clamped together and notches cut on the RAS. I screwed ledgers to the wall at the same height as the notches and nailed down 1/2" sheathing plywood to act as the shelf. That's been over 20 years ago, and I store a lot of weight on them - full tool boxes for example - and they're rock solid. Mine is about 12" deep, with 22" I'd probably put cross pieces every so often. However, I'd be a little concerned about shelving that long and high, unsupported & freestanding, as it may be a little tippy and I can see it falling over pretty easily.

This is the only photo I can find, taken when I was adding rolling pegboard panels to the front to give me more wall hanging storage.

 

Good point on the tipping risk, Tom. With 2' deep shelving maybe not as bad, but 1' deep, very likely to tip.
Incidentally, ripping 2x6 lengthwise yields very functional actual sized 1 1/2" x 2 5/8" rails for the shelf supports.
2 x 4 's use up too much vertical ht.....you have to use a spacing that allows you to put the largest object you want on the shelf, and the ht. of the rail is dead space.

 

Guys I think your a little late to the party . Last post was 7 years ago

He hasn't been active since 2011

 

It's all about 'content', Rick! We need to revive these old threads so you young guys can get up to speed...

 

Gotcha , now it's all making sense :|

 

So, Rainman, what's your point? DaninVan has the right idea. If we don't bring a thread up, then the replies are lost. Actually, I liked the rolling doors with perf board.