Hi Ken and Sid,
Here is the tall sliding fence I promised to show you. I got it from a tip on another web site. The first pic is the fence. 7" high mdf, jointed top and bottom and parallel. This can be clamped to your regular fence. Click to enlarge

Next pic with the sliding fence attached and a workpiece clamped in place.

Sliding fence details. The 2nd one is the back.


Here is the cut. You should do the cut in one go unless you are using plywood. Keep in mind that this is just construction quality Fir. Notice the blowout on the trails end. This is normal, but might be avoidable with a thin ply backer. I haven't tried it yet. When you run a piece through you have to apply medium hand pressure to the lower part of the workpiece, but not near the bit!


You can also do tenons with this fence. The workpiece is clamped for the face cuts. For the edge cuts I just left one of the workpieces in the clamp to act as a backer and I hand held the workpiece with the edge against the fence and the face held against the clamped piece. It worked just fine. The 2nd pic shows the tenon rounded for the poorly routed mortise in the 3rd pic.



What do you know, a perfect fit!

I hope this will help you guys out. let me know if you need any help with it.
Here is the tall sliding fence I promised to show you. I got it from a tip on another web site. The first pic is the fence. 7" high mdf, jointed top and bottom and parallel. This can be clamped to your regular fence. Click to enlarge

Next pic with the sliding fence attached and a workpiece clamped in place.

Sliding fence details. The 2nd one is the back.


Here is the cut. You should do the cut in one go unless you are using plywood. Keep in mind that this is just construction quality Fir. Notice the blowout on the trails end. This is normal, but might be avoidable with a thin ply backer. I haven't tried it yet. When you run a piece through you have to apply medium hand pressure to the lower part of the workpiece, but not near the bit!


You can also do tenons with this fence. The workpiece is clamped for the face cuts. For the edge cuts I just left one of the workpieces in the clamp to act as a backer and I hand held the workpiece with the edge against the fence and the face held against the clamped piece. It worked just fine. The 2nd pic shows the tenon rounded for the poorly routed mortise in the 3rd pic.



What do you know, a perfect fit!

I hope this will help you guys out. let me know if you need any help with it.