Getting back to the original post, I think a table saw would be a great item to purchase. There are several portable style table saws that can be stored out of the way. After using one of the old Craftsman saws for several years, I bought a 3 hp Grizzly cabinet saw. It will outlast me and maybe someone else. I use it almost every day.
Note: Before you buy a table saw, make sure it will accept a stacked dado blade. Some do and others don't.
Take some time and search You tube for table saw uses. There are many.
Also, check out
Ron Paulk's videos. He is a custom home builder and designer. He has numerous videos of portable work tables that are easy to set up and incorporate a portable table saw, miter saw and a built in for a router. His plans are cheap and his videos provide a lot of construction details. With a set up similar to his, you could get hooked into woodworking for a long time.
To cut the opening in your box for the glass, a jig saw can be used to rough cut the interior waste away. Just stay inside the line by 1/8 - 1/4 inch. Then, use double sided tape to attach some 1/2 inch mdf strips so they outline the mark for the inner portion of the opening. Use a router with a flush trim bit to cut a clean rectangular opening. A router such as the Dewalt Compact 1 1/4hp router would be perfect for this. The plunge base will make it easy to start/stop your cuts. Other routers with more hp are a little bigger and have the capability to do more. I have a Bosch 1617EVSPK that will do just about anything use ask of it, including cutting raised panels for doors. See pic below of the Bosch used to cut half blind dovetails for drawers.
Once your opening has been cut, reposition the mdf strips so you can cut the recessed rabbit for your glass to sit in. This is where the plunge base really shines because you can set the depth adjustment, turn it on and plunge the bit to make a safe cut. Again, search YouTube for examples.
Since the router cuts a rounded corner, you will need a sharp chisel to clean out the corners.
I use Titebond original glue for most of my projects. Once the joints have been glued and the glue has dried, it will not fail at the joint, the wood around it might break, but not the glue joint.
I have also used several nailers purchased at Harbor Freight. I still use a 15 gauge nailer, but I replaced the 18 gauge nailer/stapler combo. It shoots 18 ga nails and 1/4 inch staples with no problem. But the hammer is wider so it can drive the staple so it leaves an indention when it drives the nail. I didn't like that so I now use a pair of Bostitch tools, the 18 ga brad nailer and the 3/32 inch crown stapler. They have been flawless for several years.
Drills and drivers - I have three Dewalt 12 volt cordless tools, two drills and an impact driver. These work really well and the batteries last a long time. I know more powerful tools are on the market, but these do everything I ask of them. I don't know how I made it so long without an impact driver. I also have a Ryobi 14.4 volt cordless drill. It is heavy compared to the smaller Dewalt's and the batteries don't last. I have replaced them several times over the years. They are on their last leg. I will throw the whole mess away pretty soon.
Table saw, jig saw, router, chisel, drill/driver and glue will get most of the job done. And clamps. You can never have too many clamps. I have used the bar clamps from Harbor Freight and their "f" style clamps. Other types include pipe clamps and the larger (and more expensive) parallel style clamps.
Hope you get some useful tips and ideas from my rambling.
Good luck.
Mike
Here are a few pics to go along with the story.