This will give you a good idea of how to cut the angles. What you can not see in this photo is that the fence is a joiner fence with an offset between the input and output sides.

Another solution is the Verticaly tilting router table by Pat Spielman.

 

Thanks Mike.

I just go back from the VA, sat down and went through everyones links, pictures, videos, articles...

Looks like the Vertical Tilting Router Table is a variation of the tilting router lift that the next poster posted. Actually, I had seem that tilting router lift is one that I had looked into and debated with getting my RAS going again... That poster also posted a jig that is actually a router table with a sliding tilting table deck.... But the router itself is fixed.

Of all the routers I have, I don't have one that I feel comfortable about building a tilt mount for without a lot of extra fabrication. None of my 1/2" routers have a round housing without the base. I am saving up for one that would be perfect, but I'm on disability right now = very fixed income. It is a a goal. All that is another discussion. I don't have the time or money for that yet.

I was really interested on your photo Mike. Problem was the picture is blurry if you look at in original size. If you don't have a better picture of it, could you please describe it to me?

Mike- That picture, even though I couldn't see it in detail, reminded me of an angled miter router jig. An angled miter router jig is 2 rectangular panels (same size), joined at a long edge with 2 hinges. At the each end of the bottom panel is secured 2 small pieces of stock that stand straight up. In those pieces you cut an arched slot to secure to the upper panel using hanger bolts/washer/wingnut, like an arched quadrant stay in a drop lid desk. Could also drill holes for screws at predetermined angles. This jig, you open the upper panel to the angle you want, and secure on the ends to keep it at that angle. You usually put your work on top the upper panel (clamps) and slide the jig along the fence.

Problem with that jig is that you are routing the edge of the work. But for some reason, looking at "your" picture gave me an idea... If I build another angled miter sled and put a ledge on the lower edge, then secure it to my workbench. The workpiece is at the angled... Then build a skeleton that can support rails, but be adjustable verticaly and keep in square/perpendicular to the benchtop... Then I could make a bigger (40") mortise slot jig (with stops) to use a router.

 

I am no expert, but Mathias Wandel at woodgears dot ca has many examples of duplicating moldings and building tilting router lifts. Also at StumpyNubs dot com he has a shop built raised panel jig that is nice.
I am not allowed to post url names because I don't have enough posts, but tried (in words) to give you some opportunities to research avialable options.

 

The folks at Woodhaven offer a fixture for tilting a router. You could add it to your router table.

Angle Ease : Router : Woodhaven

Charley

 

MLCS Horizontal Router Table

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/33162-mlcs-horizontal-router-table-update.html
==

 

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/33162-mlcs-horizontal-router-table-update.html
==

Thanks Bob! Nice. Is that yours?

Post 1 (yours), photo 2... If you rotated the whole thing 90 degrees. Could then use a free router supported by a jig above it, instead of one mounted in table... That would be what I am picturing in my head. About to go out to the garage to get it out of my head into making shavings.

I guess I could always redo one of my router tables if I carve out some mounts, but I surely don't have $250 right not to buy someone else's pre-made mount or jig... That's almost as much as the new router I've been saving for.

 

Last night as I was thinking about this, I thought if I built I took my angle miter router sled and put something underneath (to lift it up higher), that mybe I would have enough material hangover to route where I need to cut.

As I started building my new angle miter router sled/jig, I looked at my 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" plywood... I had started tearing down my horse shoeing trailer and I have all this 3/4" marine plywood from it. That's what I used instead of the thinner material.

It worked out just fine. At 1 1/2 inches (2 x 3/4") at 15 degrees, it gave me 6 1/2" of workpiece hangover. I made test cuts on my router table and recreated the profile.

I didn't have to build anything to suspend a router above the angled work.

Thanks All!

 

Hi Mike

"Is that right?" = Yes right on,,,It's great set up to make picture frames.etc. the fence is in place to cut the stock off and the Alum. bars are set to cut off the angle dead on every time, on both parts quick and easy..
The same holes are used for the pin router setup once the Alum.bars are pulled off the top..

Can't have to many routers LOL..