Hi, Eddie;
you could use a 2x4 on the flat, at the bottom, going across, saw or plane to the correct slope. Rout a rebate across at the top edge to receive the bottom edge of the plywood. Obviously the plywood edge is 3/4" thick and a 90deg. face.
Two advantages:
-plywood isn't weakened at the bottom
-it doesn't sit against the concrete, never a good thing.
Two other other possibilities are to simply do a 3/4" roundover on the top of the bottom; or buy a metal transition strip from the flooring shop.

 

Hi Dan,

Thanks, some useful suggestions there, it's funny how you get single minded with an approach to a problem and can't see other easier options.

 

I have a picture in my mind, but it might be different than where you want to end up.

My thought would be to add thin gauge steel to the bottom of the ramp. Not too thin. It is also possible you could find a premade extrusion that would fit over the plywood.

I thin that kind of solve will add life to your ramp. Might be a good idea for both ends...

 

Eddie, do you have a table saw and a tapering jig? That's the way to cut wedges. Make the deck (the top surface) from plywood and space several identical wedges under your deck. This isn't a router project.

Physics 101: The flatter the angle - the easier the move upward. Bigger diameter wheels also roll easier than smaller diameter wheels - especially across "humps and bumps".

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia

 

I can't help thinking that concrete would solve the problem.

 

My cheap solution to the 'step' between my drive and garage is a piece of 1/2" pipe. The 3 inch casters have no problem starting up on this when rolling them into the garage. My jointer was the hardest to get in and out because it has the lowest 'ground clearance' of my mobile tools, and it works pretty well.

The 4 inch casters on my other tools glide over it very nicely.

The ramp is one I bult a while back, it is PT 2 x 6 lumber cut down into the ramp shape I needed. It originally had pallet wood decking covered with carpeting, now it has PT decking on it. Where the radiused edge of the decking comes down, it makes a pretty decent transition. You could proably use a larger roundover if necessary.

 

FYI the ADA standard for ramps is 5°, 1 in/ft or 1 cm/12 cm. From experience I cantell you that even this slope can be steep. especially if the ramp is at all slick.

 

Step to lower level ramp.

Hi Eddie,
You should be able to tilt the arbor or table of your saw to make the cut at the top of the ramp (abuting the step riser) with the panel flat on the saw table. The narrow angle where the ramp meets the lower surface is best made by adding a transition piece - 2X4 or 2X6 ripped to the proper angle. The narrow angle in the transition piece) can be cut with the stock positioned on edge on the saw table. Use a feather board clamped to the saw table to hold the bottom edge of the transition piece against the fence and clamps (I like parallel jaw wooden handscrews) on the transition piece at such a position to ride against the top of the saw fence. This will give you something to hold which is well away from the ever present danger of amputation by saw. If the cut is too long to complete in one pass make a secong (right angle) cut to remove most of the waste, then plane the remainder of the bevel. Congratulations on asking other experienced workers when you are not certain of operations. Eyes and fingers are irreplaceable - don't risk loosing them from careless operations.
E.Tinker

 

I agree with Harry. If you leave the plywood in place, touching the ground, it will absorb water and rot, even the treated stuff. It is not made for ground contact. You could make you a slot in a treated post (made for ground contact) to receive the plywood and bury the post down to ground level. I think the post is good for at least 20 years. But concrete is forever.

 

I don't disagree that concrete is the ideal ramp material, if it's poured at the same time as the sidewalk. However, and Otis might want to add to this thought, if you try to do it with normal Portland cement + aggregate...even with polymer additive, the thinnest portion at the feather edge will discombobulate at the first sign of tension (as opposed to compression). Even the technical bagged mixes aren't perfect under that condition. Most require a minimum of 2" thickness.
There are some alternatives, but I wouldn't put my faith in them, bouncing heavy machinery up and down the ramp...

 

Thanks all for your replies and they have given me something to think about.

The concrete, whilst being a good idea would encroach too much into the garage and as has been stated may suffer on the thin edge. The plywood ramp would be removable and not sit there when not required, it would just be placed to move the equipment and removed when not being used, probably would be hung on the wall.

I think the best idea is to use a piece of solid lumber (I have a lot of reclaimed iroko 9" x 70" x 1.5") at both ends and to make wedges to support the ramp underneath, this is similar to what I had envisaged at the high end and the middle but it had not crossed my mind to use it for the thin end. I can cut a rabbet into the piece for the plywood to sit in so the slope is all flush with no steps in it.

Thanks all again, Eddie.

 

Just as a point of interest, concrete would not sit ON the ground, it would be set 2 or three inches INTO the ground. Point two, concrete wouldn't extend any further than one made from wood! I do of course understand that a wooden one could be removed when not required.