I think the Pinnacle plate is made by Woodpeckers and they sell the Whiteside K41 5/8" bit with their template.

 

Thanks boys for all the tips. I'm going to play with it a little more, but if I can't get it just right I will sheeepishly go back to Woodcraft and pick up a template for it!

tom

 

Here's another tip that worked out well for me: Instead of using the threaded plate adjusting screws included with the insert plate, I opted to buy eight theaded aluminum inserts. I epoxied these into holes along the rabbet that supports the plate. Into the aluminum inserts, I placed allen screws. Adjusting the insert plate to flush with the finished top was a piece of cake.

BTW, Jim, mind if I use that sealing process for the rabbet? That sounds like a goodun'.

 

Good tip Lance, I was thinking along the same lines but my table came with small rare earth magnets already imbedded at the leveling points so didn't get a chance to use it. I did use the medium strength loctite on the setscrews to keep them where I put 'em. :yes4:

 

Tom,

I'd make a template of the plate in 3/4" (or 1/2") MDF the same size as the plate, by tracing around the plate, cutting out the majority of the material with a scrollsaw or jig saw, trimming closer with a router and then sanding to size with an OSS. You can use the plate to see when the template is the correct size, as the plate will fit smoothly within the template hole. When doing this, any bumps in the template will transfer to your final project, so to it carefully.

In my case, the lift and router are very heavy, so I plan to make a 1/2" lip to support the router & plate. If your router has adjustable plates on the bottom for inner-hole size (mine does and 1/2" works), check the range of lip sizes it will handle.

To make the through-hole, I plan to use a 1-1/2" guide bushing with a 1/2" bit, using a series of ever-deeper cuts. With the bushing against the template, it will cut a through-hole that is 1/2" undersized.

Next I will switch to a short top-bearing bit (1/2" cutter diameter xs 1/2" cutter length x 1/2" bearing diameter) in my plunge router and make a series of cuts until I "sneak up" on the depth that makes the plate flush or very slightly recessed.

Finally, I'll use the plate leveling screws to make final adjustments. My table will be from MDF, so I'll "finish" the cut edges with a coat of shellac to reduce wood moisture fluctuations as humidity changes.

You would need to look at the instructions that came with your plate to see if they have specific recommendations, such as lip width and may need to modify your bit / bushing combination.

If your plate will not accept a 1-1/2" bushing, a 1-3/16" bushing with a 1/4" bit would still give you 11/32" of lip. That is mighty close to the 3/8" lip that I've heard a number of folks here recommend.

In order for this to work the radius on the plate must be larger than that of the bit.

 

I tired 1/4,1/2,3/4, and 1" bits on test pieces to see which would work best on the radius of the Pinnacle plates. Actually none of them look good really for a flush fit. What would you do next?

Thanks,
Tom

 

I have a Pinnacle plate and the 3/4" bit is definitely too big for the corners. I'll look at the 1/2 and see. thanks guys, Tom

 

Tom,
The double stick tape works very well, trust it. I cut the rabbet for the plate, first and came back with a jigsaw to cut out the rest. I used a 3/4" bit and it was a little big in the corners for a Rockler plate. A 1/2" bit would probably get you closer to the radius for most brand name plates. What insert plate are you using?

 

Carpet tape works fine, and 3/8" also is plenty to hold the plate. I've done several like that with no problems.