Ok I just found this article

https://www.routerforums.com/attach...s/tools-woodworking/170130d1449934256-something-got-noticed-freud-vs-diablo.pdf

 

seriously...
all the information about blades I've put up and you ask this...
just make sure it's a negative rake and a TCG grind...

 

Ooops

 

Rick, I believe Freud makes the Diablo line of blades.

David

 

they do...

 

I don't cut metal with a saw blade, on purpose anyway. But years ago I bought a blade for my circular saw at Big Lots, for $10. Carbide tipped, zipped thru wood like a hot knife thru butter, still does for that matter. I think the blade would be good thru aluminum, don't know if it would scratch it or not, but a run with a sander would solve that. Thing is, if it was only good for a few pieces, then had to be replaced, it was cheap. Haven't been in Big Lots for a number of years, but they always had things at a low price. Bought a batch of metal quick clamps for $1 each, should have bought them all. If you have one near you wouldn't hurt to check it out. I think I'll try to remember to check the one here, if I remember next time I'm in the county seat.

 

How thick is the Diamond plate?
Herb

 

Good question Herb . It seems pretty thin ,but that’s not saying much . I may just go and purchase the Diablo tomorrow , that’s if the other two stores do not stock Freud

 

Rick, if you insist on a red blade, HD sells one for about $100 less than the one you posted. Specifically for aluminum, too.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-10-in-x-80-Teeth-Non-Ferrous-Plastic-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1080N/100043779?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories_PLA-71700000034127227-58700003933021549-92700031755124874&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsvTxBRDkARIsAH4W_j9gzbf-T9qSvHEJYJSmgTRHwtou43V5yD4l4fJqek6zlCMYt-5YNyMaAi3iEALw_wcB

 

Rick...the one Gene found seems to have more of a negative rake than the other one...

Do this...measure the thickness of the aluminum, including the humps, and contact Freud/Diablo for their recommendation.

More teeth and negative rake is better...

 

I had a chance to ask a Freud rep a couple of years ago what the difference was between the Diablo and the Industrial lines of blades. His answer were that they were identical except for the thickness of the carbide which allowed the industrial line blades to be sharpened more times. If you were buying a D1024 thin rip blade which KMS Tools occasionally sells for $29.95 you probably aren't going to have it resharpened anyway so the Diablo becomes a better deal. They do sell non ferrous cutting blades (brass, copper, aluminum) which will have the correct tooth rake and hardness of carbide for that particular job.

 

Guys I’m starting to think about the last time I cut checker plate ,and I think I used a panel saw blade . For some reason I believe I installed it backwards .
I’ve got lots of spare pieces to test I guess

 

that'd work if the plate was very thin vinyl....

 

That's what the Aluminum siding guys used to do (the blade in reverse I mean).

 

not a good plan IMO...

 

Rick for cutting something soft turning the blade around is okay but not for something hard. I used to do that when trimming metal roofing flush at the eaves of the roof but I had teeth get thrown off doing it so I quit and started using metal cut off blades for a circ saw. I keep an old B & D just for cutting metal. It's slow going but the edges are clean and straight that way.

The solder that holds the teeth on a blade is designed to cushion the joint between the blade and teeth to the impact that happens when the tooth makes contact. It's not designed to keep the tooth from breaking away when cutting in the wrong rotation. My advice: NEVER use the blade in the wrong rotation. You could lose an eye or get a serious puncture wound.

 

I never turn carbide blades around , only this panel saw blade that has no welded teeth on it .
Last year I was trying to cut wood on my table saw and I’m having a tough time and there’s smoke everywhere.
Then I realize my panel saw blade which was installed backwards from previously cutting plastic was still in place . Didn’t cut wood worth a darn lol

 

For many years I cut aluminum (mostly extrusion) with non-ferrous 80 or 100 tooth blades on a radial arm saw. I always used a (wax?) stick for lubrication. You may want to get some of that, Rick.

 

That’s interesting,as I was just reading about using wax . It’s new to me

 

Diablo miter saw blades

I used the diablo 12” medium aluminium blade on the miter saw. It was amazing for the new aluminum railing on the deck. I could cut a 1/16” long piece off of thin walled railing without collapsing it. For the thicker plate I take several cuts up to 1/4” deep at a time. I also bought the diablo Trex blade for the decking. I am equally impressed with it.

 

Yes the lube works good it is also for keeping the aluminum from building up on the blade.
I don't know who the idiot was that came up with turning the blade backwards but it's all wrong! (I was taught that too years ago)
If you have the circular saw in a jig it works better to pull the saw backwards for aluminum siding, but with the blade turning the right direction. (like on a radial arm saw)

I have often put a cheap 7 1/4" blade in the table saw when cutting aluminum or hardy board.

But the carbide blade for cutting aluminum works the best.

 

Actually, Diablo is Freud’s lower price brand. It is made in the same Italian factory as the standard Freud blades, using the same processes, just a different steel. Still a Freud!

 

Hey, Jon; welcome!
Washington State; you have some neighbor members here.

 

I don't get the joke. Diablo blades are made by Freud. And they are good. I use the 7-1/4" blades on my table saw. Yes, they are for a circular saw but they really work well on a table saw and the 1/16" kerf saves a lot of wood especially when one is cutting ebony, bubinga and wenge. They will not cut more than 5/4 boards but I have use the ripping 7-1/4" one to cut oak and the cut surface isn't bad at all.

 

Well what a freaking mess ! This Diable blade made for aluminum worked , but the shards of aluminum flew for 25’ .
Took my bibs off and brushed myself off as best I could . Vacuumed the floor in the garage , and I can still see glittery pieces of steel in my house regardless.

Had to take a file as it still required a little deburring where the cut was . Hate to do this very often .
I was almost tempted to try my non carbide panel saw blade in b@ckwards , as I swear is was just as good a cut .
Could have used a feather board also ,as the aluminum sure likes to jump a lot as you cut

 

I guess the radial-arm saw kinda cuts away from you because the cutting I did wasn't nearly as bad as you describe. I was doing mostly cross-cut miters though. When I did do ripping, I always lowered the nose of the blade guard till it just cleared the material. The lube that I used was in a tube something like a tube of caulking (without the tip), I would just run the teeth through the end of the stick, before a cut.

 

I have cut 1/8 aluminum with carbide tip saw blade. Did nice clean job. Now last year I cut steel roofing with a steel cutting blade from Harvard freight cut great no sharp edges.