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Electrolysis rust removal example

3.5K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  GulfcoastGuy  
#1 · (Edited)
I've been neglecting the rust on my bench drill press for some time and decided to take care of it today. As I've said before I'm fond of electrolysis as it is simple, reasonably safe, and requires minimal effort.

Normally I use a smallish plastic tub and wire mesh that came from a large kitchen strainer. The parts and pieces go in the wire mesh and that is used to conduct the electricity to the rusted parts. For this larger item I used an old medium sized plastic trash can and attached the electrical source, a standard DUMB car battery charger, directly to it. There has to be an anode of some ferrous metal, in this case a piece of mild steel I salvaged from the dumpster at work. The last item required is a solution of washing soda, NOT BAKING SODA - WASHING SODA, 1 tablespoon washing soda to 1 gallon US water (tap is fine). The positive (red lead) of the battery charger goes to the mild steel anode and the negative (black lead) goes to the rusty items/basket.

Make sure of a few things:
  1. Don't let the stuff connected to the black lead touch the stuff connected to the red lead. Obvious I know but it would be pretty bad (toasted charger, fire, blue sparks ... you know the drill)
  2. This produces hydrogen & oxygen in small quantities so adequate ventilation is a must.
  3. Don't stick your mitts in the solution while the charger is on.

Then plug in the charger. You should hear the usual surge of power and if your charger has an ammeter you'll see a deflection letting you know it's on. After a short while you should see small bubbles forming on the rusty parts and the anode. After an hour it's a good idea to turn the rusty stuff that's facing away from the anode to face the anode being sure to turn off the charger first (of course turn it back on when you're done).

After about 2 hours total, turn off the charger and rinse the items and rub them down with a scotch-bright pad. Apply you favorite rust preventative.

I got the results you see below.
 

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#2 ·
Too much hassle for me. I'd just have used steel wool and oil.
 
#3 ·
Pretty good result, Patrick.

I have seen this method used for old rusty hand planes with good result. I would not have thought of using this method for a drill press shaft.
 
#4 ·
@Theo, Time consuming, maybe, but where's the hassle in mixing some water and washing soda? Other than that all I had to do was clip on a couple of leads and wait two hours. (The Auburn - Texas A&M game was on.) The rinse and Scotch-bright rub down took all of three to five minutes.

@James, The larger the job the more I tend to look for the least labor intensive solution. Necessity may be the mother of invention, but I'm convinced that laziness is it's illegitimate father.
 
#8 ·
@Theo, Time consuming, maybe, but where's the hassle in mixing some water and washing soda? Other than that all I had to do was clip on a couple of leads and wait two hours. (The Auburn - Texas A&M game was on.) The rinse and Scotch-bright rub down took all of three to five minutes.
Yeah, I know how the process is set up, but I wouldn't bother with something like that, like I said I'd just use steel wool and oil, and take all of three to five minutes to do it, bypassing all the setup time, and money for washing soda. For something larger, more heavily rusted, then I would consider it worthwhile, just not for a little rust like that.
 
#6 ·
Patrick, I used a similar method a few years back to remove rust from a hand saw blade once. worked well! I don't remember the chemical but it was a powder used to shock water in a hot tub and I got it from a pool supply. What is wash soda and where do you get it?
 
#7 ·
Pat-

You've done this since the plane right? I've seen you've had good luck with it and it works. I'm curious with the longer term effects.

Cast is porous. So soaking would retain a trace amount of water that would need to dry. If I just grind or sand cast iron, any moisture and it rusts almost overnight. I know with other techniques, that you remove rust, but also stop the rusting process so it doesn't reoccur... With the electrolysis process you are using and the scottbright pads to scrub it away... Does the electrolysis process kill, stop or slow down that rusting from happening again? (Over just sanding it down.)
 
#9 ·
@Gary,

Got mine HERE $3.24/55 oz. Will last a LOOOONG time.

@Mike,

Don't know about the cast. Never tried it. It's always been tool or mild steel for me. I can only assume that if It can penetrate WD-40 could mitigate the moisture and protect the cast

-from WD-40 Frequently Asked Questions (see item 5 under "What does WD-40 Multi-Use Product do?"):

What does WD-40 Multi-Use Product do?
WD-40 Multi-Use Product fulfills five basic functions:
1. LUBRICATES: The product's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.
2. PENETRATES: WD-40 Multi-Use Product loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.
3. PROTECTS: The product protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.
4. REMOVES: WD-40 Multi-Use Product gets under dirt, grime and grease. Use it to remove gunk from tools, equipment and vehicles. WD-40 Multi-Use Product in liquid form (e.g., gallon) also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of excess bonding material.
5. DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because it displaces moisture, WD-40 Multi-Use Product quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.

WD-40's long term preventative qualities were shown HERE. The main reason I like it.

@Theo, To each his own, Enjoy.
 
#10 ·
"blackened" look

Patrick IF i'm seeing it correctly the result is a piece with a black patina----yes?

I'm interested in finding a process that leaves the metal with it's original "color" and will leave any surfaces that have paint on it intact.

Any thoughts?

thks
 
#11 ·
There is a black residue left that is removed with the rinse and rub down. I guess the remaining patina is this residue left in whatever pitting that occurred. A brass wire brush may clean it up.