I'm always in favor of the first pictured method.

 

You could use a clamp to secure the work and then it doesn’t matter. The clamp can improve the push cut too as either one tends to pull or push the board sideways.

 

My preference is for the pointy bit to enter first as the back end is more likely to have any tearout, and in most cases that'd be on the inside of a joint. That and I like what Jon says about (not!) pulling the hand into the blade.

 

I don't understand the question,both are push aren't they? It is just that point goes thru first, or heel goes thru first?

Herb

 

1st picture method for a rough cut and miter knife to finish...

 

I'm confused about the "push/pull" terminology as well as in my mind, they are both push cuts. Having said that, using a clamp to hold the work piece and keeping your hands away should negate the possibility of having your hands pulled into the blade. I've always used the orientation in the second picture.

 

I use the first picture method.

 

Mentally, I have to have the material on the right hand side of the miter . Don’t know why , maybe cause I’m right handed?

If tear outs a concern, I’d clamp it and have a piece of mdf as a sacrificial piece

 

All points are good and I apologize for the confusion generated by the push/pull terminology. To Chuck's point, I use a clamp and add the backer board as suggested by Rick. Stick's suggestion of using the miter knife has a lot of merit.

Thank you one and all.

 

Stick's suggestion that you make a rough cut, then use a miter trimmer is how I now make miters, particularly for picture frames. A clamp is also a good idea, and full kerf blades that are less likely to deflect than thin kerf. When you use the miter trimmer (pictured), you see just how much a blade deflection affects a miter corner.

This is a Grizzley miter trimmer. Wife gave it to me to make frames for her art. Be really careful of the blade, it will slice a finger right off if you try to lift it by the blade opening. It has a small handle to lift with welded to the framework. About $190. Miter Trimmer | Grizzly Industrial It also has accessory wings with a stop to help support the cuts and cut equal lengths.

Trims ends glass smooth both perfect 45 and 90 degree trims. Just trim lightly, about 1/32 nd to 1/16th. Thicker trims don't turn out as well. Did I mention keep your fingers away from the blades!!!! I mounted it on a sheet of ply and put steel handles at the balance point.

 

I thought what he meant was to turn the miter gauge around in the slot. That gives better control if you are trying to miter something fairly wide.

 

That is what I had imagined too,Chuck, and it sent shivers up my spine to think about pulling a cut through the back of the saw.
I always use he left side of the saw to do everything. Only occasionally will I rip or Crosscut on the right side. But I see Utube vids where others do just the opposite, they rip on the left side of the blade ans also cross cut the same.

One time a wood worker came to my shop and wanted me to help them with their box joints and they cut them from right to left. I always cut mine from left to right.

Herb

 

I use the left side miter slot too, with the head tilted to the right. I can see using the other slot if you're mitering something like a picture frame molding and can't flip the part upside down to cut the opposite hand miter. I don't know about other brands, but Delta's miter gauge comes with tapped holes in the top of the fence on the head and the outer end of the bar for an accessory clamp.

 

I've always used the pull method. But I can see where the push is safer. Using a clamp would be the best.

 

To my joiners' mind the best way is to use a mitre saw - on which there is far less chance of the material moving the wrong way, especially if a length stop is fitted. If it must be done on a table saw then I suppose I'd opt for a mitre fence with a length stop and cut from the inside edge to the outside on the grounds that any spelching on the outside is going to be less noticeable and easier to disguise than it would be on the inside, where flaws are generally more immediately apparent

 

I can use my Bosch sliding miter for the rough cuts, but even slight errors add up on picture frames, which is why I use the trimmer. It is also very good for making face frames because you get a perfect and flat 90 degree cut. The Bosch is very close to perfect, and with a good blade in it, does a good job. Not sure how a cheapie (HF) would do.

 

Hi, your best bet is to not use the miter gauge at all and just spend an hour or less and build a very quick cross-cut sled. You don't have to make a fancy cross-cut sled, but once you start using a cross-cut sled you will very rarely use your miter gauge. The cross-cut sled is:
safer to use
easier to use
more accurate to use
Go out to Youtube and find a simple cross-cut sled to make.
Later if you want you can make a very fancy cross-cut sled. I use a sled for cutting miters, exactly 90 degree cuts and just cutting. I almost never use my miter gauge.

 

For 90* cross cuts I agree with using a sled and I’ve even built one for 45* angles but it’s impractical to build one for every angle and that’s where the miter gauge comes into play.

 

Mike; for sure the OEM miter gauges aren't precision tools, at least the ones I've seen/used.
But some of the 3rd party ones are really a major improvement (over the OEM ones).
I keep meaning to build a sled but for panels I'd rather just use my circ. saw and a straightedge
I just don't have the space in my garage to swing 8' sheets. The small stuff, well that's why I bought the Osbourne EB-3.
https://www.sharpen-up.com/best-miter-gauge-reviews-top-5-picks-for-2017/

 

I am drooling again after looking at that,Dan.
Makes my V27 look kind of puny

Herb

 

It's not perfect, Herb, but close enough for woodworking.

 

@Cherryville Chuck:

Agree with the practicality point. I use either a KREG as shown in the photos or an INCRA 100 and have backer boards built for both.

 

Several ways to go about skinning that poor cat:
In all honesty, these three jigs are nothing more than alot of lipstick on an old pig!
Just a personal preference to kinda go over the top in design, in function they all can be made
considerably simpler and function just as well.

These two shooting boards work exceptionally well. The addition of PSA sandpaper eliminated sliding issues.
Edge trimming on the horizontal has limitless angles, all dependent upon a spot on setup. On the vertical is
limited to 45*. However, this limitation can be overcome with a bit of redesign.

The CCS works beautifully! Only issue is the thing weighs a ton! Limited to around 24"s in width of cut

Dedicated to 45's. Worth the time and effort if you do alot of 45's

Old reliable is an older Incra 2000. A bit of a dinosaur in the Incra lineup, but after 10 years of use, still performs exceptionally.
requiring only a yearly tuneup.

I've also used a 12" disc sander with great results. Biggest issue is in the setup. I have a ShopFox 12" sander and the table to
disc angle does not want to stay consistent or reliable. This one is a work in progress.

I like to cut my profiles prior to sizing my pieces to length. I find this helps minimize sanding. Cuts made from inside to out using a backer.

If interested, more pics within the threads:
Cross cuts sled:
http://www.routerforums.com/twoskies57-gallery/17549-crosscut-sled.html

Bench hook and shooting board:
http://www.routerforums.com/twoskies57-gallery/23696-bench-hook-shooting-board.html

 

Wow! Forget scrap lumber; this is for keeps!! Beautifully crafted, Bill.

 

Thank you sir.... they were made for keeps alright. The shooting boards and the CCS get used regularly. The 45*
sled not so much anymore. Once I picked up a mter set, setting up the 2000 to spot on is a breeze...

 

For variable angle cuts, I have a Rockler crosscut sled. The swing arm works at any angle up to 50 degrees. I also took the time to set the 90 degree angle precisely to the blade.. The scale is on the outside of the arc so each degree of change is at least a quarter inch apart, thus you can be very exacting on your setting. I really like this sled and use it a lot.

Table Saw Crosscut Sled | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

 

I thought I had responded to this message, but I did not see my response so maybe I did not. My thought is why do you use a miter sled at all. Most of them are a little loose and all of them are harder to use than a cross cut sled. Once you make yourself a cross cut sled, you will very rarely use your miter sled. Go out to Youtube and check out how to make a Crosscut sled. At first just make the easiest sled you can make, it should not take more than a quick hour. Later you can make something fancier. A cross cut sled is much easier and safer to use. Try it, you will love it.

 

Mike; did you mean a crosscut sled vs a miter gauge?
If you meant miter sled, Tom's (Rockler) looks pretty slick.
A simple crosscut sled isn't really helpful for angle cuts as the offcut won't slide past the rear fence, never mind setting an angle for the cut.