Hello Bu-san, I am glad that you are here, there is no such thing as a stupid, or a dumb question. I just may be able to make polish when you get an answer. Thanks for asking, and welcome to router forums. There are many people from different parts of the world, so you should be geting an answer. Thanks for asking!

 

Contact our member Jerry Mayfield, he is our resident finish expert and I am sure he can put you on track. :sold:

 

I have been using a mixture of equal parts boiled linseed oil or tung oil, pale shellac flakes and mixed with alcohol. For lighter woods substitute tung oil for linseed oil. Mix a small batch of 2# cut and shake well before using. One thing I have found is that the best results are obtained by using shellac made from flakes. Make sure the flakes are all dissolved before mixing in the oil.

 

That might actually work for me! I can get tung oil and linseed oil. For the alcohol, short of using shochu (the local firewater), what kind do you use? Will isopropyl alcohol work, or must it be mineral spirits? In what kind of store do you get it? I'm not sure where I can get the latter so I'll have to do some investigating.

Also, is this brew non-toxic enough so it can be used for fruit bowls and the like?

 

The alcohol I use is Denatured Alcohol. It is pure alcohol with a additive that makes it unsafe to drink. Generally I don't use shellac/oil on bowls. I use a varnish/oil mix. In the US all finishes are food safe when cured for 72 hrs. The Denatured Alcohol I get from our local woodworking store or the lumber store. Isopropyl alcohol has to much water in it being at least 70 percent water. About 90% of my finishing is done with Minwax Antique Oil and if I couldn't get that it would be Watco Danish Oil.

 

Isopropyl alcohol has to much water in it being at least 70 percent water.

Is this a US thing? I have never seen a 30% isopropyl alcohol here. 70-99% is the norm.

The alcohol I use is Denatured Alcohol. It is pure alcohol with a additive that makes it unsafe to drink.

What make is it? The cheaper varieties are 190 deg Proof (5% water). I have been looking for a 200 Proof locally but have not found one.


General Introduction to Alcohols

 

Crquack the stuff I use says 95% alcohol and 5% additives added. I am assuming (yea I know what assume means) it is the pure ethanol with additives added to make it undrinkable. On the other you are right I reversed my figures. I know what I meant but it came out wrong. Here our isopropyl alcohol seems to be 70% alcohol and 30% water. That is to much water and will not mix well with shellac flakes. Been there done that and turned out terrible. I will see if I can find the msds sheets on it to see what it actually has for sure.

 

Now here is interesting: I wandered around one of our bigger stores today and could not find *any* sign of denatured alcohol. I went through all the bottles and cans in the relevant section - nothing. The only thing vaguely suitable to use instead is "methyl hydride" which of course is methanol. They sell it as a "shellack thinner". Nowhere on the bottle of shellack solution does it say what solvent they use. Could it be that they all switched to methanol?

BTW shellack flakes are hard to come by here - I have seen then in only one specialist shop. Otherwise one has to order them from e.g. Lee Valley. But then what does one dissolve them in if the denatured ethanol disappeared. Meths?

 

crquack, You may find the DNA Bernie is quoting as "methylated Spirits" that is how it is labelled in many countries,
I often use a similar mix to Bernie, 1/3 each of, mineral spirits (turpentine) BLO & any old Poly" you have in the shop, doesn't matter if it is gloss or flat, the only problem with this is it dries in the container very quick so only mix small amounts, this is also a good sealer for most timbers.
A mix of 1/3 each BLO, shellac & DNA is also a good quick shine mix & it keeps very well in a good lidded container for months
cheers
Pete

 

I don't know what would be used. I don't see DNA going anywhere at least down in the US. It is readily available at most hardware stores and most lumber yards. Home Depot and Lowes has it. You can get it from quarts, gallons and even 5 gallons. Make sure if you are going to use shellac on your project to get dewaxed shellac especially if want to put another finish over it or you will have problems. On another forum a gentleman asked why his finish he put over shellac was sticky, blotchy and really bad looking. When he was questioned he had not used dewaxed shellac. So this info is for those new to finishing. I also agree that dewaxed shellac flakes can't be found except like CSUSA, Packard Woodworks, Lee Valley, etc. Most of the time I can only find it at these and other woodworking sources.

 

I went to our local specialist woodworking store today. I will not mention their name (It's Windsor plywood). All they had was a small container of shellac flakes coloured orange of uncertain provenance. I asked about blond or white shellac - none to be had.

I asked what to use to dissolve the flakes in (again, there was no DNA on the shelves). Eventually the fourth assisstant seemed confident that the answer was "methyl hydride".

I did not even ask about dewaxed shellac (I was looking for it some time ago, too).

Note that Lee Valley sell a (expensive) version of denatured alcohol although the actual proportion of ethy/isobutyl are uncertain.

Shellac/Lacquer Thinner - Lee Valley Tools

Furthermore, the only shellac they sell does not mention wax - I suspect that it is not the dewaxed variety.

Shellacs - Lee Valley Tools

There is a lot of shellac solutions about on the shelves but none to my knowledge mentions wax status.

It is a pity because I cannot use the quart bottles within the shelf life of the prepared solution. I was hoping to prepare small batches at a time.

So much for that.

 

That is hard to tell on the shellac if it is dewaxed or not. With the flakes I get down here I only mix a half pint or less at a time since I only use it on small turnings under lacquer.

 

At least one of the commercially available slutions I found contains methanol.

Have you ever tried to dewax your shellac by letting it stand and decanting the supernatant?

 

No I sure haven't. I just buy the dewax shellac. It is just easier to mix and be done with it.

 

I was unable to find denatured alcohol in Tokyu Hands, Japan's biggest crafts store. The place has great variety in almost everything but not much in the way of woodworking, alas. They never heard of "friction polish" and only had one bottle of pre-mixed shellac to show me. The larger DIY stores have a larger selection of tools but again, no shellac. Apparently, if it isn't lacquer, varnish, or paint they never heard of it.
However, I was able to reach the importer for Mylands. They don't sell too much of it, I got the strong feeling I was his only customer, but he did say he would look into ordering a few bottles from the UK manufacturer for me.

 

Well sounds like you really don't have any sources for shellac. Thats to bad. There is a canadian born turner that is married to a local japanese lady and lives in Toyko running I believe a wine and spirits store. I will contact him and see if he knows maybe where you can get some shellac and alcohol. He is on the Family Woodworking forum. I will see what I can find out.

 

Hi Bernie!

I've got a source for shellac, I sent an e-mail to kmpres with lots of info :yes4:

 

Hey Stu. How are ya? Glad you could help him. I am sure he will appreciate the help.

 

Hi Guys,
Yes, thanks to you, Bernie, we've made contact. Stu has been very helpful and has led me to a source for shellac flakes and other stuff. I'll be turning stuff before you know it! Now all I need is a workbench...

 

Bu-san you are very welcome. Glad to have helped. Now do some turning and post some projects.

 

A new member has just posted his recipie for friction Polish
http://www.routerforums.com/introductions/20896-friction-polish.html

 

Thanks for the heads up Ill make a copy and keep it...

 

You can buy 99% pure alcohol in most drugstores in Canada. You have to ask for it, and they will probably ask you what you plan to use it for. Offer to make the druggist a wooden mortar and pestle.

 

Thanks again i have loads of the stuff. I also love to do microbiology and have a need for various strengths of alcohol Ethel, denatured.& isopropyl.
But I like the mortar and pestle. thanks for the idea....

 

Bernie,
Since Watco was forced to do away with "oil" thanks to the liberals, I have been making my Danish oil from equal parts of Mineral spirits, linseed oil and a good Val Spar Varnish. If I need colorant, I will add a little painters oil paste.
Just trying to help keep the ol' good stuff alive.
Jerry

 

Thanks Jerry for the heads up. I still like Minwax Antique Oil over Watco. I have mixed Tung Oil, mineral spirits and poly together. That works pretty well also.

 

i'm a woodturner looking for a good homemade friction polish recipe

 

bowl or pen????

Equal parts of Deft, thinner and BLO, mix well and keep in a closed container....

or...

Equal parts Denatured Alcohol, Shellac and Boiled Linseed Oil.,,,
Don't mix up too much at a time the alcohol will evaporate and you will loose the correct ratio....
Use DNA only for alcohol...

or...

Equal parts lacquer thinner to lacquer...

or

Equal parts lacquer thinner, gloss lacquer and boiled linseed oil.

 

I just joined I read post about friction polish, they will all work fine. I would still like a recipe using beeswax