I wish you were closer, Dan. I was tripping over some 4' troffer fixtures, this afternoon. That will be a big improvement for your work area. Make sure you realy pile the insulation up there. Do you heat that space in the winter?

 

That is my plan to heat it next winter. Right now I am putting in R-19. I know I should put R-40 but its better than nothing. The walls are 2x4 studs.

I got lights tonight at RONA for $20 each 2x4 that hang. The plan is to install a 2x4 across the rafter and then build a box and use "O" rings on a screw and screw (1) at each end of the light to hang them in between the rafters so they just stick below the ceiling so I can still open the garage door.

 

Looks like you had your day cut out for you. So of the newer engery saver lights placed along walls as spot like mite help the lighting. Remember, there are tax breaks from the stimuls package.

 

Barry

I checked for the stimulus program on lighing and it dooes not qualify. I do not think I de-attach garage quailfies either it has to be your main residence.

I live in Edmonton, AB and went to this link for the rebate prorgams:

Climate Change Central

Home Improvement

 

Barry
You mean mount the flourescents ontol the wall apposed ot the ceiling? Have you tired this? Does it work better?

 

I was thinking of spot lights or wall lights in addition to the ceiling lights if you had areas that needed more light.

 

Dan,
I think Barry was referring to "spot light" fixtures.
If the flourescent fixtures you have are without a lens cover, these panels make for a good dispersion of light, keep your bulbs cleaner, and will add some safety factor: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...let/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100542281#. I have a few in my basement and they are easy to install. They are made for grid ceilings but can be cut to fit any space.

Edited for linkage.

 

Dan,
I think Barry was referring to "spot light" fixtures.
If the flourescent fixtures you have are without a lens cover, these panels make for a good dispersion of light, keep your bulbs cleaner, and will add some safety factor: Product Information Error Page . I have a few in my basement and they are easy to install. They are made for grid ceilings but can be cut to fit any space.

Thanks for the heads up but the link does not work.

 

Say Dan, don't you ever stop so some poor shumck can catch up?? Goodness you've run me out of time, money and now ideas!!! :sarcastic: :laugh: I sure admire your enthusiasm; if I had half your energy (the joy of being young) I would have been done two months ago with my shop!!

BTW would love to have all the stuff you have in the back ground of you shop, there is a gold mine there!! You said the garage is 24X20, that is a nice size shop, and will the cars stay out all the time? I would assume you have block heaters on them for the winter months. Too bad we don't live closer, I could give you encouragement and you could give me production!!

Noticed how the previous owner put up the particle board, (Under The Joists??) that was brilliant!! Sure is hard to find good help these days!! :sarcastic:

On a more serious note, how will you lay the shop out, to sort of make it a flow through the various tools as the wood comes in? I kind of tried that but in the final analyses, it is what it is. I did try to keep the Jet behind all the real dust makers. All but the joiner and planer are more or less on the input side of the collector. Don't know if that makes any difference but it sure doesn't hurt is what I figure. I would like to sheet rock, but I need to have access to the open web trusses for fixing problems to the upstairs plumbing or wiring.

Say guy will CYO

 

hi Dan, i see by the warfarin you been killing some mice or rats. i as an exterminator i saw the warfarin right away. it looks like you just about have your shop full! my poor little shop is ful.

 

Yes block heaters are a must in my area during the winter months.

I will make a drawing to show the layout of the shop and post it when i get a chance Jerry.

Now I am toying with the idea of taking out the Panel and running a new 8 Circuit Panel so I can run two dedicated 220 circuits. One will be for the tablesaw and the other will be for the dust collection. The circuit with the table saw will also share future 220 jointer and band saw. I figure I will only be able to use one machine at a time so why have dedicated circuits to each machine.

The dust collection will be on a different circuit because it will be running all the time while I am using one of the other machines on a seperate 220 circuit. Off the 220 I can can som e110 plugs as well because the circuit it rated for 20 am p and my dust collection only draws 9.5 amps.

One more circuit for the outside plug to be a GFCI. Will run off the laod side of GFCI plug to supply on more ouitside plg but wire in a regular plug which will be protected by the first GFCI.

I will have to build boxes for each of the flourescent lights which will take some time.

The lights will be on another circuit.

 

Hi Dan

Just for kicks here's shot of my panel box. 100 amp.service

========

 

Bob Nice panel but you really have to get a label maker to finish the job

You have a 100 amp service just for the garage? Wow thats alot of power.

 

HI Dan


It's bit too small all the time..I'm in it all the time adding new breakers
or moving them around....that's why you see the white board around the panel face so can get into the panel and to get to the side of the panel box to put in more cables..

=====

 

BobJ

your service panel looks almost identical to mine.

my door stays open all the time, im sure you keep yours closed. i just never bother to close mine(lazy i guess)

 

Shop Layout Diagram

Here is a tenative outline where I plan on putting the machines in the shop and any future machines. The window over the traditional workbench has not been installed yet and when I do it will give me a lot more natural light during the day becuase of the Southern exposure.

 

I had to skew the bitmap image so I could uplaod the file. OPen it in paint to stretch it back out. The orginal drawing went form 100% Width 100% Length to 68% Width and Length 45%

 

I plan on using drywall and doing a rough mud and tape. Not sure if I want to paint the ceiling or spray or leave it as is. Time will tell I guess.

Dan, I would suggest that you paint the ceiling a flat white. The white ceiling helps to disperse the light from your fixtures and makes the room brighter.
Here is an article from Fine Woodworking magazine on shop lighting. You have to be a member to view it, but you can sign up for a 14 day free trial and download the PDF article. There is also one on wiring a workshop that has a lot of good info.

 

Ok Thanks but even if I have the lights boxed in between the rafters so they sit flush to the ceiling?

Will check it out the information.

 

Good luck Dan.

 

The only down side I can suggest to redoing a shop is, at least for me, becomes a lifelong adventure!! I will say however it is nice to do something like that and make it comfortable to be in and mine is. I am sure we will look back a year from now and be glad we did what we did. I really want to follow your build out so keep the posts coming.

 

Gutted the wiring - Sub Panel wire in.

Today was a lot of work but I managed to get all the junk out from the rafters and take down a temporary lumber rack on the North wall. This wall will be where the mitre station will be housed as well as the Dust COllection and Drill Press.

I decided to start from scratch on the wiring and pulled all the old wiring out and installed the sub-panel. I bought a 20 amp 2 pole breaker which will be dedicated to the tablesaw. The other 2 pole breaker 220 volt wil be dedicated to the Dust Collection. The DUst COllection draws 9.5 amps so I think I am opk with a 15 amp circuit dedicated to just that. I will run the remaining 15 amp circuits for the following:

1) Air Filtration / Garage Door Opener
2) Drill Press/ Mitre Saw
3) Outside GFCI plugs on thge outside of the garage.
4) Lights in Garage as well as a motion sensor on the ffront of the garage and side.
5) I have one 15 amp 110 volt circuit from the house which I will install a Square D box with 4 outlets.

I tore the shelf out of the center of the workbench are to allow me to run the new wire down the inside of the wall. Drill a nice big hole 1 1/8" diameter. The previous owner must have a farmer from Saskachewan ( that is not a bad thing:yes4 because I found old newspaper as insulation from 1974.

I will replace the shelf with a large cabinet with a large swing out door to house all my hand tools. Just what I need is another project but hey might as well do it right.

The North wall where the Drill Press and mItre saw will be located will be finished with 1/2 PLywood instead of Drywall. I like the idea over drywall for the simple fact if I want to hand something all I have to do is throw a screw into the wall and its done. I will be priming the wood and painting it but with my new HVLP sprayer but don;t worry I will make sure all the tolls are out of the way so they don't trun white:yes2:. I figuer I might as well do one wall first so when I work on the South wall I have room to move stuff over to the otherside.

The family got back ffrom Jasper today and I am working nights again so I hope it is quiet and will try and sneak out to the garage and get a few things done.

I will post pictures tomorrow mornig when i get off of work.

 

Greetings Dan, re electrical, I would run all receptacles as 20 amp using #12/2 wire. I am not sure, but will you be using #14/2 for all your 15amp circuits? I have 5 circuits that are all 20amp #12 /2 in the shop and bathroom area.

One thing about your sub-panel, you cannot put the ground and neutral on the same bus they must be separate. You can put the ground and neutral on the same bus in your main, but not in the sub. One other thing to remember is you cannot pull you lead for your secondary panel from in front of the main disconnect it must come after the main disconnect, put in a 100amp breaker and run your service lines to the secondary panel.

I could make more suggestions, but I am just too tired for that right now. Talk to you later.

 

Jerry

The subpanel was already installed by the previous owner. He had run three wire 10 gauge from the house to the garage underground.

I have run just one 20 amp circuit that I will use for the table saw.

All other circuits will be 15 amp because of the minimal load on the circuit. As I mentioned the dust collection is 9.5 amp draw on a 15 amp circuit so that falls below the recommended 80% (12 amp draw). I spoke with the electrician at RONA and asked if he thought I should run 12/2 for 20 amp and he said it was not needed.

I will only be running three things at one time maximum ( Dust Collection - 9.5 amps, Table saw - 4.5 amp and Air filtration - 1/3 HP 110 volt) All three of these will be on their own circuit so I think I am ok.

 

Your table saw only pulls 4.5 amps?

 

Sorry typo the table saw draws 7.7 amps on 220 volt.

50175/185

 

Tired my fingers can't type it is 7.5 amps

 

Hey Dan,
Man, you're a busy guy. About the wiring: what is the rating for the breaker in the house that is used for the 10 gauge that feeds the sub-panel in the garage? The total ampacity of your sub-panels in the shop should be based on that circuit. Probably no worries, there, but I thought I would mention it.
Jerry must have some experience in the wiring field, as most folks are not aware of the two 20 amp circuit code for kitchens. It is one of the most over-looked wiring applications by home remodelers. His advice about 20 amp circuits for the receptacles does have merit, as well. If only for the durability of a 20 amp GFCI vs. a 15 amp, it is a good upgrade. I don't know about your local codes in Edmonton, but here, all receptacles in a garage must be GFCI protected.
Good luck on the shop remodel. I'm sure there is a lot of interest. I know I always learn a thing or two by reading the posts about shop work. When you get a second (if you do, <grin>), post up some pics.

 

Lance you are correct re GFCI in garage. I am afraid my expertise not due to experience, but I was NFPA 70 code certified. (I think it was 70) at any rate I held an ICC Builders code certification that touches on electrical, mechanical, structural and plumbing. Dan I looked up the wire sizing chart

How to Size Wiring and Cabling for Your System - AltE

the maximum Amps for #10 copper wire is 30 amps however you mentioned that the service is coming from the house panel I guess I should ask how long a run is it? On long runs, you need to go to the next wire size due to voltage drop in the wire. (See following)

How to Size Wiring and Cabling for Your System - AltE

I guess I am bringing some of this up so as to avoid burned up motors down the line. Maybe if there is an electrical engineer out there he/she could help us out here. I know there is a formula to calculate what the ampacity would be and that would be good to know.

At any rate keep the pics coming and so will I of my shop. (I will PM you later on something I thought about.)

 

Rough in complete

Ya thanks guys I am aware of the GFCI receptacles in the garage. What I plan on doing is running power to the first receptacle which will be a GFCI and then wire the next three receptacles downstream on the load side of the GFCI so the entire circuit will be protected but the GFCI plug. This saves me form buying an expensive $100 GFCI breaker and does meet the Alberta Electrical Code in my area.

The breaker in the house is 30 amp. I wish I had more but its all I have but I think I am ok given I will only be using at maximum two machines at a time.

Next I will have to go and buy some 1/2" plywood, poly and insulation for the 2x4 walls. I will have to make boxes for the lights to sit up inside the rafters. I want to do this so I will not have to worry about hitting the bulbs with long pieces of lumber. I hate it when those things explode over top your head.

Once I get the boxes made I will be able to prime them and then paint them prior to installing the light fixtures.

Stay tune for more pics as I "get er done"!

 

Dan you are into it now, it only gets to be more fun as the days go buy, oops I mean "by". (Jeep "just empty every pocket" There must be something like that for woodworking!!) :laugh: :lol:

Every thing I saw looked good in the box. I may have missed something, but it looked good. I have yet to get my second panel, but will get it for sure late summer early fall. Keep the faith baby and keep up the good work.

Ya thanks guys I am aware of the GFCI receptacles in the garage. What I plan on doing is running power to the first receptacle which will be a GFCI and then wire the next three receptacles downstream on the load side of the GFCI so the entire circuit will be protected but the GFCI plug. This saves me form buying an expensive $100 GFCI breaker and does meet the Alberta Electrical Code in my area.

The breaker in the house is 30 amp. I wish I had more but its all I have but I think I am ok given I will only be using at maximum two machines at a time.

Next I will have to go and buy some 1/2" plywood, poly and insulation for the 2x4 walls. I will have to make boxes for the lights to sit up inside the rafters. I want to do this so I will not have to worry about hitting the bulbs with long pieces of lumber. I hate it when those things explode over top your head.

Once I get the boxes made I will be able to prime them and then paint them prior to installing the light fixtures.

Stay tune for more pics as I "get er done"!

 

NOrth Wall Insulation, vapour barrier and 3/8" plywood

Today I wired in the last circuit which will be used to supply power to the garage door opener and the air filtration unit.

I went to RONA and got 10 sheets of plywood for $105.00 and bought to bundles of R12 insulation along with a roll of poly to be used as a vapour barrier.

I had an easy time of installing the plywood because of one important tip I will share with you all. If you look at the pictures you will see I mounted the power outlets so the top is 48" from the ceiling. This allowed me to rest the sheet of plywood on top of the utility box to mount the plywood by myself.

Got all the sheets up and boy what a difference. I will prime the entire wall once I get the boxes built for the fluorescent lights tomorrow. Once the boxes are built I will slide them up inside the rafters to span 16 feet 4 inches. I want to have 2" clearance on the ends of the fluorescents because of air circulation.

I was able to use my Rotozip to cut out the power outlets. If you do a lot of drywalling and want to make things easy for yourself I highly recommend this tool for fast and tight fitting holes.

I went to a second hand place for re-usable home building supplies and found a nice sealed double pane window 27" x 48". I will install this on the south facing wall of the garage to let more natural light into the shop. This window will give me natural light all day long and make it a more cheery place to work in. I may need to install some window blinds for the summer to reduce the heat but will wait and see how things turn out.

 

Dan,
You are one human dynamo. 24 hrs. since your post with the pictures and you have everything wired, insulation and vapor barrier up, and plywood on the walls. Really exceptional progress.