Hello and welcome to the forum,Kitui
Lets see if can find some one help you

 

Here's a link to a site that shows various designs of cutouts similar to what you show.

https://www.google.com/search?q=handle+cutout+in+drawer+face&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:IE-Address&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=kY6kt4Hs1yxi-M%253A%252C3SkBrK_9_3mNAM%252C_&usg=__korHTYyIBoprYrxwMkyVMzQCCx8%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiErqnrg_HYAhUEsFMKHSKPAQoQ9QEIKTAA#imgrc=rC2hV-y7hMhkCM:&spf=1516812120871

There's one link in there to a YouTube video that shows a jig for making the cutout with a router but doesn't give any dimensions - I would think you would make it based on a hand width at the knuckles, maybe something around 4"? Bear in mind though that the whole hand doesn't necessarily have to go into the cutout, although the hand (mine at least) is about the same width all the way down. The jig shown in the video is a little bit overkill, I would recommend making the cutout with a simple template having cleats that locate on the top edge of the drawer front, and also make it with a radius between the cutout and the top edge of the drawer - mark a center line on the template and drawer front, clamp the template in place and make the cutout. While you could make the cutout in one step, I personally would rough it in slightly undersize with a jigsaw and then just use the template to clean it up to final size. Finish by running a round-over bit around the recess.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfxBDdszXeI

 

Here's a link to a site that shows various designs of cutouts similar to what you show.

https://www.google.com/search?q=handle+cutout+in+drawer+face&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:IE-Address&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=kY6kt4Hs1yxi-M%253A%252C3SkBrK_9_3mNAM%252C_&usg=__korHTYyIBoprYrxwMkyVMzQCCx8%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiErqnrg_HYAhUEsFMKHSKPAQoQ9QEIKTAA#imgrc=rC2hV-y7hMhkCM:&spf=1516812120871

There's one link in there to a YouTube video that shows a jig for making the cutout with a router but doesn't give any dimensions - I would think you would make it based on a hand width at the knuckles, maybe something around 4"? Bear in mind though that the whole hand doesn't necessarily have to go into the cutout, although the hand (mine at least) is about the same width all the way down. The jig shown in the video is a little bit overkill, I would recommend making the cutout with a simple template having cleats that locate on the top edge of the drawer front, and also make it with a radius between the cutout and the top edge of the drawer - mark a center line on the template and drawer front, clamp the template in place and make the cutout. While you could make the cutout in one step, I personally would rough it in slightly undersize with a jigsaw and then just use the template to clean it up to final size. Finish by running a round-over bit around the recess.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfxBDdszXeI


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYrh4IiJaWo

This guy certainly has a way that works,

My main criticism is that he seems to have no dust control and worse no face protection or mask. He really should be wearing an N95 mask to prevent inhaling the tiny wood dust particles

No criticism of @tomp913 is intended; he presented a very useful post

 

Thanks, I checked most of the video in youtube and forums. I saw the youtube video a while back but there are few details. I need to use a template of some sort because I need to make 26 handles. So what kind of bit should I use: spiral straight, upcut, downcut, diameter, etc. Thanks for helping

 

Using a template that's going to duplicate the finished shape, you clamp the template in place and use a bearing-guided bit (after roughing out the handle) to cut to finished size.

Selection of the bit with the bearing at the top or bottom is going to depend on whether you're going to do the work with a hand-held router or with a router table. While you could make the cutout before you assemble the drawer, it could also be done after the drawer has been assembled. The photos show the pattern that I made for the sides of a pull-out shelf and the pattern still clamped to the side after routing it flush to the pattern - in this case, I used a hand-held router with a top-bearing bit.

 

Welcome to the forum.



Gary

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

I would think there are two considerations for layout and size... (1) it needs to be big enough to fit hands comfortably and (2) the layout should be pleasing to the eye...in the middle for one cutout, equally spaced for multiple cutouts. The mind's eye is a powerful tool...we all have one but it's different for everybody.

A template is a good idea since you have so many...it's a better idea for repeatability for future use. Even if you only needed to do one today, you can use it for future similar projects.

Any of the bits you mentioned will work...and whether you use a bottom or top bearing is dependent on which side of the project piece you will secure the template. Equally, it also depends on whether you are freehanding or table routing...just keep feed direction in mind...

Good luck...

 

Sorry, I did not clarify. I do have a plunge router. Do I need a palm router instead? I would think that the template on the top would be easier to follow. I have straight bits 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2, should I use a 1/4" for a squarish handle (1/4 corner radius )? Do I need special bits?
If I go for a Hole finger pull, may I use a 35mm Kreg jig with Forstner bit for the hole (Euro hinge jig) and either sand a little bit or use any router bit to smooth the edges (where the fingers would be)? It might not be necessary because it is Baltic Plywood and some sand paper might do the trick. What would be the best distance for teh round hole from the edge of the drawer? Let me know your thoughts