I can only speak for myself.
I've done a lot of cabinets, desks etc using veneered plywood and with one exception have always used solid stock or ready made trim molding. I just find it easier to work with - and a lot more versatile if you want to do any shaping.

The one time was my boss at the library who wanted an exact match to existing units that had square edges witht veneered edge banding.

If you are going for a flat camfered edge -- can't think of any reason you COULDN'T use veneer.

 

Hi magicman22

I would suggest the bits below

Edge Banding Router Bit Sets
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...ing.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_ogee.html#edge_banding_anchor

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Hi magicman22

I would suggest the bits below.
...

I've always just glued the stock flat to the edge of the ply like edge gluing boards.
Or if it was going to be a wider band -- milled a tongue and groove on the table saw or with straight bits.
This has always worked fine never had any problems with joints showing or not holding -- the latter is just a little slow and sometimes it takes patience to be sure you have two clean matching edges.

I've seen these bits recommended before -- and there is no denying they would make the job go faster and easier.
And they are DEFINITELY on my -
"Things to buy when I can convince my cheap self to turn loose of the money." list.:sold:

If you do a lot of that kind of work - they should be well worth the investment.

 

Hi Cowboy

They work great ,,, they also make a smaller size for 3/8" and 1/2" for plywood , now days it's getting harder to get wider stock and plywood fills that need, but then you have the open ends on plywood, this is just one way to make the job neat and easy...the one with the V slot will not add to the size of the plywood but it cleans up the plywood edge,and just a bit of glue and a clamp or two and it done.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1530
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1537
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1531
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1538

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http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...ing.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_ogee.html#edge_banding_anchor


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Those bits Bj. were my lesson for today, I haven't come across them before.

 

Hi Harry

They are great bits a little tricky to use because the top layer is so thin on plywood but once you do it a time or two it comes out looking neat with out using that nasty edge banding stuff that's glued in place or stuck in a slot on the edge...that makes it look like junk furniture

I will sometmes take a sharp knife to the plywood to cut the wood fibers so it comes out sharp and clean..

The boss has/had a roller blade knife that works great it looks like a high tech pizza cutter made to cut around patterns and it works great on plywood, it has a blade that's about 2 1/4" dia.(round blade) and super sharp.

It also works great for cutting inlay parts out, like a 1/8" wide strip that needs to be press into the slot/pocket...or for making your own inlays..

This is what they look like ▼
http://cgi.ebay.com/NWOP-Rotary-FIS...QitemZ260169305232QQihZ016QQcategoryZ28171QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://search.ebay.com/Rotary-FISKARS-45mm-Cutter_W0QQ_trksidZm37QQfromZR40QQssPageNameZRC0022



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Those bits Bj. were my lesson for today, I haven't come across them before.

 

I just add the square stock to the edge with glue and clamps. I've used those edge bits, and if the procedure is to have a chamferd edge on the solid stock, the stock has to be wider than the chamfer to compensate for the depth of cut for the bit used.

I customarily have to run a block sander (piece of wood tight in a 3x21 sanding belt) along the intended plywood edge before edge gluing the solid stock. Even after the stock is applied there may be some scraping to do to flatten the edge stock to the plywood.

 

This discussion reminded me of a tip I read somewhere a LONG time ago.

No - it won't get magicman his camfered edge - all it gives you is a flat finished edge.

It assumes you have 2 'good' sides to your plywood and that one of those sides won't matter in the finished product. So -- yes - that puts it in the 'quick and dirty' category. BUT hey - if that's all you need for a given use -- and you don't want to spend the money to buy trim ----- - - -

I don't remember ever actually trying this -- it just stuck in my mind for some reason - and floated to the surface just now.

 

I've used the glue on stuff with some success, and you can put a 'little' chamfer on it, but it's barely noticable. It works quite well on curved edges as long as you don't exceed it's minimum bending radius.

I've edge glued hardwood (and in some cases pine) onto the edges of plywood, and that works great. I use a couple of biscuits just to keep things from wiggling around too much when clamping, but glue is plenty strong. If you're doing a lot of short shelves, start with a wider edge band board, cut biscuit slots on both sides, and glue and clamp shelves on both sides. Then cut them to proper width. Saves a lot of time and clamps.

 

I built this Atlas stand using 1/2" Baltic birch ply. For the edges I ripped 1/8" strips of poplar and glued them to the edges. From there you can use a flush trim bit or sand the edges flush.

 

I just add the square stock to the edge with glue and clamps. . . .

I don't remember ever being taught or told to do it that way -- it just made sense - and seemed to work.
Glad to hear from someone who knows -- that I wasn't over simplifying

 

I think the crux of this thread is how to get a chamfer on the edge of a plywood panel. To answer the first part, a chamfer could be machined on the plywood edge with a sufficient step on the inboard side of the profile to accept a thin layer of tape or hardwood veneer. It could be scraped flat to the panel, but the bad news is the thin end of the chamfer at the outboard of the taper would be feathered thin to cover the plywood. There still may be some thickness to the plywood there.

If the piece was just a decorative one, it may pass the trials of time. I have done plywood panels for raised panel doors by using plywood and a solid wood edging that gets profiled. It can be integrated into cope and stick joinery, or can be glued into a rabbet on the back of the rails and stiles. Very easy to do and no movement issues.

The adding of a hardwood edge works best to glue on the solid stock that can hold clamps, or cauls and clamps, and then when dry to profile it. The chamfer I think intended in the OP was one with a tapered edge of some length, like 3/4" to 1", for angles like a 45 degree.