Router Forums banner

How to cut large panels of wood?.

4.4K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  RĂ–ENTGEEP  
#1 ·
Hi, I need to cut several panels of hardboard, with great precision (the error can't be larger than half a millimeter (3/74").

The panels are large, so I can't use my table saw, at least not using the fence anyway.

And the idea is to cut them in a way that is practical an not prone to errors.

Any ideas?, it seems like a simple task.. but it's taking me ages to decide for a good method.

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
clamp on straight edge and a circular saw...
careful measures and you are good to go... I do it all the time...
if you err to the side of caution.. reset the guide and use your router and a straight or a pattern bit and creep up on where trying to get to...

w/ the router...
set the guide to the measure and use the b it's bearing against the guide...
 
  • Like
Reactions: fredrocks
#4 ·
The cool think about the track saw that I use (eurekazone.com) is that there is a plastic anti-chip edge along the cutting edge of the guide. As the blade runs down the track the very first time it cuts this edge. Subsequent cuts with the same saw (and I only use one saw - Saw A) will provide a kerf edge EXACTLY along that plastic anti-chip edge. Its very accurate.

If you use another saw (Saw B) or use you use Saw A to make a 45 degree cut, then you'll want to slide a new anti-chip edge into the track and then keep that edge paired with that saw - or that angle cut - for future cuts.

Clamps hold the track in place during the cut, so no chance of slippage.

The saw base that is part of the track saw system has its own edge device that prevents chipping on the side of the kerf opposite the track. This provides very clean cuts on BOTH sides of each cut.

This is one of the main reasons I like using my track saw so much - its accuracy (and very clean cuts).

I assume that other track saws work the same way, but I don't have any experience with other track saws.

I'll have to admit that I've never measured the accuracy of repeated cuts, and don't know if it is accurate to 1/74", but I can't imagine a wood-cutting system being any more accurate if you place the track carefully.
 
#12 ·
find an inexpensive I-beam style aluminum level as a substitute...
or an extruded aluminum bar...
 
  • Like
Reactions: ksidwy
#10 ·
Before I had a track saw, I had a straight edge that I made from a piece of 1/4" tempered hardboard screwed to a a straight piece of plywood. Make the distance to the plywood to the edge of the hardboard slightly wider that the distance from the edge of the saw base to the blade - the first cut along the guide will give you an exact cut line "for that saw/blade combination". Mark your cut line at each end of the panel, clamp the guide to the panel and make your cut. The size of the panel, and repeatability of panel size for multiples, will depend on how accurately you can locate the edge of the guide relative to the pencil mark on the panel. I used a 36" rule with a stop, butted the stop against the edge of the panel to be cut and made a mark against the edge of the scale with a sharp pencil - locate the edge of the guide just touching the edge of the pencil mark and you should get very accurate cuts.

Tom
 
#13 ·
Pablo; can you get an 8' piece of flat steel bar? Maybe 2" x 1/4"?
Drill and countersink that, and fasten to a piece of hardboard (steel on top) than follow the instructions the others gave.

Flat bar stock should be dead straight for it's length.
Lay it down on a piece of plywood or hardboard and with a sharp pencil mark a line down its length. Now flip the bar over and lay it on the other side of the line and draw a new line. If the bar's straight then the two pencil lines should be in perfect alignment (one on top of the other...precisely).
If it's good than that's your fence. The hardboard as described by the other comments is your exact guide.
The nice thing about steel is that it's heavy.
 
#17 ·
Pablo:

In addition to using the guides suggested above I found it helpful to place a 2" thick sheet of foam board under the panel to be cut and running the saw about 1/8 - 1/4" into the foam board. That offers uniform support to the panel throughout the cut, particularly when entering and exiting the cut.