Very well said Mike. The K.I.S.S. rule certainly applies to this.

 

No Swinging, Thank you.

Amen, Mike!
I'm sure that tables and their accessories are a delight to work with, but the individual has to be realistic about what they do with their routers.
For me tables are impractical. My shop is 12' x 27'. If I'm dadoing a 10' or 12' plank a) it's heavy, and b) I don't have room to start swinging it around. Far safer and easier to simply clamp it and bring the tool to the workpiece.
I mostly use the router on casework and it's just more efficient (for me) to machine my pieces flat on the work table.
Same for laminate trimming with my trim router. If I had to machine a 7' tall gable, how the heck would I be able to trim the ends? I'd still have to pull out the trim router for them.

 

At last, a man who appears to agree with me in saying that most routing can and should be done hand held. Hence the reason that I have always claimed that a BASIC router table is all that is required, not those ubeaut ones with all the bells and whistles, sure they're great for sitting in front of and admiring!

 

About lifts:
They look pretty expensive, made an adjustment system for a Ryobi plunge router
for about $5.
Works fine: resolution is 1mm by turn (1/25")
Just based on a 6mm metric threaded bar 6x1mm.

Table routing makes a lot of sense in many occasions, like having a heavy bit
for pannelling, making molders, or just a nice chamfer.

 

The rule I was taught is that small things are better done on a table. Large things are better done by hand. It seems to work well that way.
Mike and Gerard are right, a lift can be improvised around quite easily. As Mike said, spend your money on bits, that's something you can't improvise around.

 

Since every website and magazine has declared they have "The Ultimate", the term has lost all its meaning, to the point of it being ridiculous. I have even e-mailed a few magazines to that fact.
I will say that most of my routing is done on the table. Just the way I like to do it.
My PC890 is manually adjusted. And I reach under the table for bit changes. I have a plunge base for it, but it collects dust, as I never remove the router from the table. Not even sure where that base is anymore.

 

I have never seen the need for a lift on my router tables and it is funny because I am a gadget guy. I have found a need for digital readouts because I'm getting old and can't see anymore, they have really helped. Good shop lighting is also more important, and dust collection makes you breath easier. Then more router bits and then more routers......

 

for the price of a router lift I could buy a used rigid ts3650...and for around $10 bucks for the plans some scrap wood and a few steel rods you can build your own lift.

 

begin(rant)

Although I agree fully with Mike, that an purchase should be fully researched before hand, I also think it is a little arrogant to presume to know my needs without knowing me, my situation, and my intended application.

I have arthritic spurs in both shoulders and lifting a 15 pound router, router plate, and bit out of a table to change bits, is not as easy as it used to be. I have NOT went to a lift yet(but I never pull the router to change bits or adjust bit height either!) but I assure you at some point I will. Revealing personal info like this should not be be necessary in order to obtain advise!

As for tables one of my primary applications is making raised panels. I don't recommend and have never seen any on else recommend making them without a table. Most, but not all my routing is done at the table!

So I agree that many of these questions could/should be answerable with a little research, but If I have decided to buy a lift and need and ask for advice, telling me I should do it another way is not always helpful or wanted!

End(rant)

 

I'm about that age also. I feel you.

I have 2 router tables and several other routers. The first router table, I bought as a table router set. Although it gave my abilities that I couldn't do as well, to the quailty I got, it did have some short comings and quarks. Those are what inspired me to make the second table. I still use the first table as it is very portable.

Some of the things I improved on was bit changing, lift, fence, table size.

I built my lift... but built the table with the intend of someday changing over to "made" lift. I don't see the need for that yet.

Router dedication? Yes. I have not seen a design yet for a quick-change router lift. I ended up buying router's to dedicate for a table, so I still had routers left to use.

I do allot of cabinet and finish work... So the comment on a table is good just for small work... If only that then I would just use an extended plate with the router in a clamp. I feel, at least for me, that it's more precision, repetition, ease of use. You can use jigs and clamping on a table, fence extensions and feathers, etc. I do small pieces through around 18 feet long... Yet I still find my other routers invaluable and use them allot.

 

Duane, you have a valid reason for buying a lift; and this is exactly the reason I started the special needs section of the forums. My first router table was designed so I could sit down to work at it. At that time I was recovering from a severly hyper extended leg muscle and needed a special work around. Sharing simple ideas like that helps others. In that section I mention that people with arm mobility problems benefit greatly from the use of a lift. What I have a problem with is that the magazines preach that everyone should buy a lift or their woodworking is in some way sub standard. This misleads many people starting out and may very well prevent someone on a limited budget from enjoying woodworking, understand?

 

Yes, Mike, I agree with you about magazines.. they are mostly advertisers first and informers second.
With 15 years experience woodworking, I am still learning a lot from this forum. It is one of the best I have found. I also try to share what I have learned both as a woodworker and as a technician

I also was a very avid fan of the Router Workshop. That said, I don't do a lot of things Bob and Ricks way, because without the expensive jigs they were selling I can't. Many were not easy to make at home with alignment issues, holes in table top to insert jig alignment pins in,etc. The easiest way many times is to learn how to make do with the equipment you have. I use the Incra ultra for most non raised panel joinery because it is what I have and there really is no more accurate way to do many things. Yes , somethings are more complicated. But that is one of the nice things about woodworking.. as long as its not unsafe, there are many ways to accomplish the same task.

I have never regretted spending the money on quality tools. Have many times regretted going the inexpensive route!

 

I spent a lot of time prior to purchasing a lift, now I have three, Rockler, good lift but lifting drive access is usually blocked when working. Woodpeckers, USA made and it shows, this is a great lift, holds the setting, with adjustment controls accessible while pressure guides are in place. Just a well built machine. My third lift is the MLCS motorized lift. not well executed, my Porter Cable router would not mount until I had ground the pins off. This was not clear in the information provided by MLCS. I am somewhat disappointed by this machine. From my experience the Woodpecker lift is the best buy.

 

Agree wholeheartedly with this. I researched for a router for my table that met various criteria, one of which was to adjust from above. I selected the Milwaukee 5625-20 even though I still would have to reach underneath to unlock/lock the body. Turns out to be a huge disappointment. As I try to raise the bit, the router slips back down one thread and I get no progress unless I reach underneath and 'help' lift it as I crank. The 'quick release' button is the culprit but I find no fix nor help from Milwaukee.

This is a big router that I don't like the idea of using by hand. This is also a situation where it looks like I might be springing for one of those lifts some time in the future.

Mike

 

Hi, I had this same problem with my ryobi which occurred both with normal height adjustment and my modified above table adjustment.

I solved the problem however once I found a grub screw on the side of the router next to the 'quick release' button and by tightening so the quick release is no longer functional and securing with loctite I no longer have that issue.

I do however have 1 minor inconvience that the quick release obviously no longer works and I have to raise and lower by turning the depth changer, but I would never undo this change.

I know this advice is much later then your original post so if you found a better solution I'd be happy to here how you fixed the problem

 

I just bought a router raizer kit for $89 and am waiting for delivery when I started making raised panel doors i bought a Porta Cable 7539 and the other lifts are not compatible. I am tired of having to pull the router out of the table to change bits. I also cant justify paying $400 for a lift plus a new 7518 router

 

I received my router raizer and now have it installed and i love it. I installed it on a incra magna-lock plate and also used a extreme extender made by the same company. The only suggestions I have for the manufacture is the lead screw could be about 2" longer as you loose 2" of downward stroke. (I like to be able to lower the bit under the table when not in use without removing the bit.) The manufacture support desk was very helpful and instructed me to make a 3/4" extension spacer for the mounting. in my opinion this lift works as well as any lift at a third of the cost.

The next thing I can see coming is a electric digital lift with a keypad that you select the height you want and it adjusts it for you. the biggest thing would be zeroing the bit height. But if your going to spend that much why not just buy a CNC mill.

 

I look at my router table as a stationary power tool. I like it to be as accurate and easy to use as any other well built power tool in my small shop. I like a router lift that I can work above the table to change bits and adjust the height. I have not had a router lift all my wood working days but wish I would have. I have bent over adjusting bit heights and bringing the router with the table base plate out to change bits for Many years. If you have the room for a router table I think it is a good ideal to make it as good as you possibly can.

 

I have not had a router lift all my wood working days but wish I would have.

I am just beginning to work with my router and am also just completing my (first) router table; however, I am starting out with a lift instead of bending over to do the adjustments (the lift is accessible from the top). I have knees that don't take kindly to kneeling and when I have to bend over to work on things (which, being 6' 1" tall, I often "get" to do), my lower back "talks to me". Also,Coming from a computer programming background, I have learned that there is no need to do any more work than you have to and, often, doing a bit more work up front will save you lot of heartburn later on (i.e. I tend to be what I call "constructively lazy" :yes4: ).

My interest, as with computers, is in "getting it done and done with quality" rather than in "doing it the traditional way".

Of course, as the saying goes, "Your mileage may vary . . . " :yes2::yes2:

 

Just made my own router table, I'm hoping to use it to make some decorative boxes, so I think it will be much easier for me to pass the wooden bits across the tool rather than the the otherway round.
I have used a car jack (losange or diamond style), it cost me 12€ and a tiewrap to fix it in place, and it it lifts and locks the router in place perfectly well.
I can change the bits with the router raised with the bit end flush with my router plate (piece of 3mm galvanised steel).
I'll send a picture as soon as I've got through my 10 posts!

Geoff

 

My router is fixed to my table, without a removable plate. I have the 3 1/4 hp variable speed Hitachi hanging from it and adjusting the height was a nightmare until I bought a lift attachment that I could access from the top. I think the need for a lift depends alot on how easily you can access your router or adjust your router. In my case, I wouldn't live without it.

 

True by all means but I believe that all the views I can see were meant in a positive opinion oriented view point. I for example have similar personal problems and could possibly benefit by a lift somewhat although I happen to have the PC7518 reflected earlier. It is currently on an old, real old, Craftsman industrial router table which is too small to handle the work piece and the power of the PC. I am looking at building a table modeled after his Normness for not only its practical use, storage areas, and need for routing smaller items but because of my physical limitations. Not to mention I just feel like building something no matter how rarely used, that I can admire. At my age, the feeling of accomplishment and knowing my daughter will use more than me when I'm gone makes me happy. No time soon though. Isn't that what it's all really about, doing something we all love. Some for a living, some for a hobby, and some for both.

 

Mike,

Sure am glad I read your post. You wrote that about me, right?

Before using 'em, I put the Kool-Aid down, and returned the $170 router lift and the $190 2.25hp router that fits it.

I bought a 3.25hp Triton on sale for $210.

Im not loosing any functionality, gaining 1hp, and saving $150.

Its going here as an insert on a Ridgid r4510 table saw.

Thanks again,
Michael LeCompte

 

Mike,

I bought a 3.25hp Triton on sale for $210.

Im not loosing any functionality, gaining 1hp, and saving $150.

Its going here as an insert on a Ridgid r4510 table saw.

Thanks again,
Michael LeCompte

Hello,

Interesting photo, I assume that the 180 degree scale means you can change the angle of the router bit relative to the Table ?

Is it one of those routers that pop the bit up out of the table to let you change the bit ?

And it mounts in a conventional saw table ? Can you just pull the saw out and put the router in like on the Triton workstations ?

I am keen to learn about the new Triton Routers, my experience is limited to a 20 year old Makita - and to be honest there nothing wrong with it - just hasn't got any bells and whistles..


Regards

Bill

 

Michael, the reason I started this thread was to get people to think before they spent their hard earned money. Everyone should work with what feels best to them. I have never owned a lift and I change bits or make adjustments by popping my router out of the table. This is second nature to me, quick and easy. Many people like using a lift. What ever makes you happy but don't do it because someone who is paid to promote items tells you to. Spend the time to look at options before you buy and you will be happiest with the results.

 

Hello Bill--The router you see pictured is mounted in the wing of a table saw. The 180 degree scale looks actually to be the saw's miter guage sitting in its holder on the side of the saw cabinet. It is a very good optical illusion--it does appear to be part of the router set-up.

earl

 

Bill,

Earl is correct. Optical illusion.

And Yes, The router does lock the spindle at full bit height so above the table bit changes are easily done.

Plus the router has dust collection @ the cut like the festool.

 

how did you build the table for the router

How did you make the router table. Can you share with me the plans? I'm in the market to buy a table, but I saw your post and I have the same table saw and would love to do that to my r4510. That's an awesome setup you create (btw).

 

I went without a lift in my router table for years and finally broke down and purchased it and heve never regretted it. It is amazing the precision I get with it; if I need the bit 1/64 inch higher, it's just a partial crank. However, do your research to see what routers fit with what lifts.

Bob

 

I couldn't agree more Bob, I think they are incredible, but I also totally understand where Mike is coming from here.

I've been able to see through the rifraf with most advertisers, magazines, etc, with most things in life in general let alone woodworking, but getting into this hobby I've learned there is a HUGE push from woodworking sites, magazines, and even on forums.

I'm all for advertising, marketing and promoting a business, company and all that good jazz. Seems with the woodworking genre there is an intense push for everyone to own the best of everything when it's not what makes (in my opinion) a good woodworking project. I believe skill comes first and the finer tools make it easier is all.

 

I am going to be making a new router table but for my old one I have been using a modified car jack we call them scissor jack it gets me millimeter accuracy and I have never had any bother with the router trying to move ect.

I welded the jack to a base plate then made and welded a cup on the top to fit the router all in cost me under $20 and it will be going onto my new router tabel once I have the time to build it. Not sure if this helps anyone but it is an inexpensive router lift.

The only problem of course with my lift is there is no way to tilt the router its a striaght up and down job and nothing else.

 

I was fortunate that a friend recommended Triton. He even said he would buy it from me if I didn't like it!! I had done enough research to determine that I wanted to adjust the bit height from the top of the table. The Triton (2 1/4 HP) fit the bill.

I knew that stooping under the table to adjust the bit height would get old very quickly.

My table is simple MDF. I made a long dowel that takes the place of the hand crank.

Next I have bought a Craftsman router (combo kit). I'll be using that hand held primarily.

 

Here is my router lift. It's free.