Jerry I was just getting ready to watch this video but thought I would see what was going on here. So watch it if you want it might help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=vvi-6n3Fr9Y

 

Don, that's a ggod video Don, just for your information, while the gauges that Infinity sells work well, they do require that you can see the marks on them, since I am nearly blind, I have had to find a method to set the bit up in another manner and it works extremely well, probably better than the set up gauges in my opinion.

As you know, my question is not about setting up the lock miter bit, but wodering if anybody has used them for other than the 90 degee joint.

Thanks for sending the link to me anyway,

Jerry

 

Have never actually used it that way. But, like you, I've put them together like that to test my set up. That would make a very strong lamination. But, I can't think of anything I'd build to justify it when a T&G would accomplish the same strength.

 

LIke you guys I've played around with doing that, no doubt would provide for an exceptionally strong joint, but see no real advantage to it except if the end grain appearance would play into the cosmetics of a piece....ie: using different colored wood.

 

Going with the grain is easier than on the end grain. This shot isn't side by side but it's very easy to do for a joint that will last forever.

 

The issue of making an end grain cut is as easy as with a cut that goes with the grain when I use my method of making miter lock cut. I know how difficult the end grain cut can be making the cuts the way that most people seem to do it. The difficult of making the end grain is part of the reason I had to find a differenct way to do it.

Jerry

 

The ridges in that orientation are short grain and therefore fragile. The glue would help with that. However, it seems like a lot of unnecessary work when a spline would work as well or better and is much easier to machine. Grooves are easy to make on a table saw and setup takes seconds. Tuning a dado stack to the right thickness can take a few minutes but the TS will cut grooves in feet per minute where a router would be measured in inches per minute.

 

Gimmie a spline every time. Well, at least in this case. Much easier to get right and much stronger joint.

I have one of those little jigs somewhere. Tiny, hard to remember where I put it. Thanks for the video.

 

All that I asked was if anybody and tried it, I didn't really ask an ipinion, but since
you think that the spline would be stronger and have not ever tried it, well, the best way to remain ignorant about something is "condemnation before examination".

Certainly splines work just fine and why change if you don't need to change. So, Tom you you down as a "no" I have not tried it.

Jerry

 

"I'm just who I am and can't change that of course, each of us is unique and that's a good thing in my opinion"

I'm so glad that you put that in writing Jerry because it's so very true. (Jerry will understand this)