Has anyone tried Iron -On edge banding for plywood? I can't stand to have the edges of plywood show, so I've always cut strips of solid wood, glued them to the edges, and trimmed flush with laminate trimmer. I always knew there was iron-on banding available, but never really considered it. Now I see where I can get a 250 foot roll of red oak banding for $25. I'll spend several times that, plus a lot of time making 250 linear feet of banding. The task at hand is just a chest of drawers for shop tools, so it's a good place to experiment. My question is, does it stay on reliably??
DonkeyHody
Yes. Absolutely, Andy; love it. I never use MDF so it's either solid edging or iron on; not a lot of other options...vinyl moulding is a bit 60's.
Either buy your own iron or be reeaaaaly careful that you check your wife's iron for residue when you're finished...she will not be impressed with glue on her $200 blouse. *lips are sealed!*
Either buy your own iron or be reeaaaaly careful that you check your wife's iron for residue when you're finished...she will not be impressed with glue on her $200 blouse. *lips are sealed!*
yes, for decades...
just use an ordinary clothes iron set to DRY high heat...
a roller is a good bet when applying.....
if you get blisters/ripples no matter how careful you are... it is often the banding.. the cheap imported stuff does that...
Edgebanding Guide - A Simple Method Yields Superb Results
...
just use an ordinary clothes iron set to DRY high heat...
a roller is a good bet when applying.....
if you get blisters/ripples no matter how careful you are... it is often the banding.. the cheap imported stuff does that...
Edgebanding Guide - A Simple Method Yields Superb Results
...
Attachments
Yes. And I use a setup similar to what Stick posted. Clamp up several pieces, iron on the banding and then trim. Works well.
Yes, would work for edge banding plywood carcasses, drawer fronts too, although I lean towards solid edging if it's going to see heavy/rough service. I've done enough of it that I bought one of the purpose made irons although, as mentioned, your wife's iron will work - just be sure to clean it thoroughly before returning. I never had much luck with rolling the banding, preferred to rub it with a softwood block with rounded edges as I felt I got a more even force - and I used the block to rub out laminate edging too.
There was a similar thread recently, talking more about trimming the edges - knife, razor blade, chisel, etc. - but I've always used the edge of a file the way I was taught by a gentleman who worked for a company that made institutional cabinets all his life. If you keep the file at a shallow angle and feed sideways as you stroke, the overhang can come off in a continuous curl, very quick once you get the hang of it.
If you think a heavier edging is preferable, I just read about a company on another forum that sell both the regular wood tape as well as heavier 1 mm, 2 mm and 3 mm thick product. I've never dealt with them and think you have to contact them for prices.
https://edgecoinc.com/veneer-wood-edge-banding-thick/
There was a similar thread recently, talking more about trimming the edges - knife, razor blade, chisel, etc. - but I've always used the edge of a file the way I was taught by a gentleman who worked for a company that made institutional cabinets all his life. If you keep the file at a shallow angle and feed sideways as you stroke, the overhang can come off in a continuous curl, very quick once you get the hang of it.
If you think a heavier edging is preferable, I just read about a company on another forum that sell both the regular wood tape as well as heavier 1 mm, 2 mm and 3 mm thick product. I've never dealt with them and think you have to contact them for prices.
https://edgecoinc.com/veneer-wood-edge-banding-thick/
Attachments
It's OK for quick and dirty, but I by far prefer cutting strips, gluing them up , trimming smooth. The iron on doesn't improve the strength of a shelf, a good hardwood strip does. Glue thoroughly, I put 2 coats on the ply edge because it really soaks in. Clamp the strips in place same as you would glue up a panel. If I'm going for strength, the strip will be about 3/4 inch wide.
With iron on strips, you still have to trim the strips even with the ply. If the strips are solidly attached, then trimming can be done with a sharp block plane, or you can purchase a trimmer. I personally only have disasters trying to use a chisel or another blade. You can use a trim router as well. And as mentioned, I prefer to use a slightly rounded stick rather than a roller. Never tried applying glue first...I'd want to test that out on scrap first.
Man, you sure got that question answered thoroughly.
Oh yes, welcome to the Forum.
With iron on strips, you still have to trim the strips even with the ply. If the strips are solidly attached, then trimming can be done with a sharp block plane, or you can purchase a trimmer. I personally only have disasters trying to use a chisel or another blade. You can use a trim router as well. And as mentioned, I prefer to use a slightly rounded stick rather than a roller. Never tried applying glue first...I'd want to test that out on scrap first.
Man, you sure got that question answered thoroughly.
Oh yes, welcome to the Forum.
If you're going to do a lot of iron on edge banding, pick up one of these trimmers. They trim both sides of the banding at the same time and will save you a lot of time. I follow up the trimmer with a sanding sponge to knock the sharp edge off.
https://www.toolstoday.com/double-e..._ppc_id=229790000&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0q-2oLaV2QIVEgeGCh0OmQaAEAQYBSABEgI8IPD_BwE
https://www.toolstoday.com/double-e..._ppc_id=229790000&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0q-2oLaV2QIVEgeGCh0OmQaAEAQYBSABEgI8IPD_BwE
Full strength. Just spread it on reasonably smooth. If it doesn't look a little bit glossy then it needs another coat. Remember that both wood glue and hot melt are both plastics so heat will bond them together. Ply and mdf aren't usually a problem after one coat but particle board may need more. It's extremely porous. Porosity means voids and that means that there is noting for the hot melt glue to stick to unless you fill the voids. Or solid wood banding if you are doing that. When I put the solid wood banding on I usually put a coat of glue on then wait 5-10 minutes and add a another coat. I'd rather have excessive squeeze out than joint failure.
Glue on edge banding, properly applied, works just fine. I find a clothes iron to be too bulky and you can buy a small iron from a hobby supply shop for about $25. It's used by hobbyist for ironing on the covering for model airplanes. I've actually used it for applying Ceconite covering on GA planes that we rebuild. Works great for getting into tight spaces.
P.S The file trick works well once the banding is cut close to it's final size and to get it there I have an edge band cutting tool that has a razor blade built into it. A little yellow plastic device that you just push along the edge. If you use the file and the edge banding is larger than the underlayment it can split the banding.
P.S The file trick works well once the banding is cut close to it's final size and to get it there I have an edge band cutting tool that has a razor blade built into it. A little yellow plastic device that you just push along the edge. If you use the file and the edge banding is larger than the underlayment it can split the banding.
yes, miles of it, and with that said, you might consider the peel and stick type.
https://www.fastcap.com/product/fastedge-peel-and-stick-edgebanding
It costs more per LF but I have had my students do time studies and even with a moderate hourly rate, in the end the peel and stick is much more cost effective. It goes on in a fraction of the time. Hence, peel and stick.
You can work with it right away but do need to wait 24 for full cure of the moisture cure adhesive.
On another note, the Festool perfect edge hand held edgebandor is really the way to go. I had a chance to demo this in Vegas and in Scotland and it is a game changer. here is a video I posted on FB about it .
https://www.facebook.com/scott.grove.587/videos/10156112320188777/
good luck
https://www.fastcap.com/product/fastedge-peel-and-stick-edgebanding
It costs more per LF but I have had my students do time studies and even with a moderate hourly rate, in the end the peel and stick is much more cost effective. It goes on in a fraction of the time. Hence, peel and stick.
You can work with it right away but do need to wait 24 for full cure of the moisture cure adhesive.
On another note, the Festool perfect edge hand held edgebandor is really the way to go. I had a chance to demo this in Vegas and in Scotland and it is a game changer. here is a video I posted on FB about it .
https://www.facebook.com/scott.grove.587/videos/10156112320188777/
good luck
I strongly recommend using melamine glue for applying the banding. Titebond - Product
It's the only glue I use when applying to particle board. It will bond melamine to melamine over small areas as the water has to escape for it to set and it can't do that over large areas. When I made my cupboards some years ago I wanted slide out shelves so I took some 5/8" melamine and rimmed it with 3/4" birch to essentially make shallow boxes. I rabbeted the bottom edges of the birch to 3/8" thick and glued and held them with 4 or 5 brad nails per side. About 30 to 45 minutes later I realized I had made a measuring error and needed to take the frames apart. I split several of the rabbets off trying to do that and I've been sold on melamine glue ever since then.
It's the only glue I use when applying to particle board. It will bond melamine to melamine over small areas as the water has to escape for it to set and it can't do that over large areas. When I made my cupboards some years ago I wanted slide out shelves so I took some 5/8" melamine and rimmed it with 3/4" birch to essentially make shallow boxes. I rabbeted the bottom edges of the birch to 3/8" thick and glued and held them with 4 or 5 brad nails per side. About 30 to 45 minutes later I realized I had made a measuring error and needed to take the frames apart. I split several of the rabbets off trying to do that and I've been sold on melamine glue ever since then.
This thread is a couple years old now, but I remembered it when I saw the attached YouTube video showing how to trim the glue-on edge banding - exactly the way that I tried to describe it, except that I normally laid the part flat to keep the file almost horizontal as I feel that I have better control that way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMC8mFFrYlY&feature=youtu.be&utm_campaign=PWW%20Editorial%20Newsletters&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=94203490&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-8n738B_F2s381X6kdC7DDAp9c66BKZvN2Gj9w-3QS5rFVztA0HG54st5SoBsHW3XyG4D2xPQUKtcB1whWb3t0uqWZ2qQ&utm_content=94200640&utm_source=hs_email
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMC8mFFrYlY&feature=youtu.be&utm_campaign=PWW%20Editorial%20Newsletters&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=94203490&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-8n738B_F2s381X6kdC7DDAp9c66BKZvN2Gj9w-3QS5rFVztA0HG54st5SoBsHW3XyG4D2xPQUKtcB1whWb3t0uqWZ2qQ&utm_content=94200640&utm_source=hs_email
Wrap a layer of masking tape around the part of the file that you lay on the face of your work. That will give you a very slight bevel on the edge.
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