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J.D. Wallace 8" jointer

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20K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  arekkosinski  
#1 ·
I've had a very well performing Grizzly 8" jointer for a while now. It's a long bed, and takes up a lot of room. Since I've been restoring old machinery, and replacing the newer stuff with them, I've been looking for another jointer.

Back in July I saw a CL ad for a J.D. Wallace 8" jointer. No age on it, and a couple crappy pictures. It was located 250 miles away in Traverse city. I sent an e-mail, and got a response a couple days later. The jointer is from the late 30s to early 40s.

It was taken apart because he had wanted to rebuild it, but decided other things were more important. I told him we were planning a trip north, and could stop by on the way up.

Trip time finally came up, and away we went. Took my pickup instead of the car, because Wifey didn't want a 400 pound machine in the trunk of her Taurus . Guess I can't fault her for that.

A pleasant drive to Traverse, through areas of the state we haven't seen in many years. Got to his home, and backed up to the barn. There it was, sitting on the floor in pieces, just like the pictures.

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Got everything loaded, transferred the dollars, and we left to meet with our Grandson, who is going to school at North Western in Traverse. Had a nice lunch and visit with him, and headed out to our final destination, Onaway.

This thing took up a bunch of room in the truck, especially with a Craftsman 6" jointer that I carry around for weight.

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Got it home and put it together to see what I had to work with. These were a very solidly built jointer. The cutter head has what is called Skewed knives. They are set with a slight angle, instead of being straight across. An early helical head.

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I've started on the restoration, and been busy the last couple weeks with it. I bought a pneumatic needle scaler at Harbor Freight to remove old paint and rust. It takes a lot of air to use it, but it does a great job. Sure beats sand blasting. Painting the parts as I get them done.

This jointer was originally a direct drive unit, but the motor and coupling had been removed and conversion to belt drive had been started by a previous owner. Not a bad idea really. I decided to not use the iron table top, and built a new one out of some 100 year old pine I have. Helps keep it period correct.

I cut a hole in the top for chip collection, and have so far gotten the motor and A frame mounted. Going to take a break this weekend and get back at it Monday.

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#5 ·
The tables need a good cleaning. Lots of surface rust on them. I'll work on those this week.
I use the link belt to measure for a final size belt. The motor is mounted to a pivoting mount so the motor weight will set the tension. When I determine final pulley sizes, I'll order a belt for it.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Hello Eben! Welcome to the forum! Do You see a rated amount needed to run? My guess, is that You will run that out of air very quickly. The normal cfm.per min. should be stated. A2.5hp. air compressor is a single stage. A 5 horse is not to big. Most DA sanders and small grinders will run down a 5 horse single stage. Thanks for joining the forum. I haven't used them before, and I hope that I am wrong, for Your sake, I was in the body shop business all My working years, and anything like that usually uses a lot.
 
#8 ·
#9 ·
All finished

A month after starting, and it's done. My new/old 1930s J.D. Wallace model 10.
Testing shows that the skewed knife cutter head leaves a very smooth surface.
I'm happy.
 

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#13 ·
Eben;
If you need to remove the knives, there are a couple things you need to know, if your head is like mine. There were a couple different types Wallace used.
Mine are held in by the 3 plugs that press against the gib when the hex set screws are tightened. To remove those plugs, I found a couple ways to do it.
If you are a member of OWWM, here is the write-up for the jointer. This will be easier than me doing it all over again here. The last page describes removing the knives.
Old Woodworking Machines • View topic - J.D. Wallace jointer skew head
If you aren't a OWWM member, I'll rehash it here for you if you like.
 
#14 ·
I bought a pneumatic needle scaler at Harbor Freight to remove old paint and rust. It takes a lot of air to use it, but it does a great job. Sure beats sand blasting. Painting the parts as I get them done.
Nice work and nice jointer. Hope you don't mind a couple of belated questions. Just stumbled on this today.

What makes the scaler better than sandblasting? Quicker to get down to raw metal? Less mess? I have a scaler but not a sandblaster; the scaler left my hands tingling and numb when I used it on some old wrought iron railings.

Also, what is the length of the tables and of the bottom of the a-frame? Looks fairly compact, which is what I'd hope to find, since I have no room for a long-bed jointer.

Is there any different technique required for setting the height of the slanted blades?
Thanks
TR