Hello, this is my first post. I need to cut 6 1inch x 1 inch groves in 14 4x4's that I am using as railing posts. I have a craftsman router (not the plunge type). I did one test cut but it will take forever to do all of the cuts if I set up the way I did for the test cut. Any ideas about a jig or template I could make or buy? Thanks
Al G.
Welcome to the forum.
A simple mortise jig should help...
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/45791-how-i-would-do.html
A simple mortise jig should help...
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/45791-how-i-would-do.html
Hello, glad you found us, it's great to have you as a member of the community, welcome to Router Forums.
you didn't say how deep nor if they were centerlined..
no jig method...
mark the outside position of the mortise. include the centerline.....
hog out the bulk of the mortise with a 7/8" spade bit...
set your router guide so that the bit cuts to the outside line of the mortise on one edge...
plunge the bit...
clean the roughed in mortise up one side... (push the router away from you)..
then turn the router around so that it's set to trim the opposing side and cut down.. (pull the router to you)..
the jig method...
you could make make a perfect rectangle to size in a piece of scrap, clamp it to your 4x4 and use a top bearing straight bit of 1/2" dia or so...
the time gain comes from hogging out the waste...
no jig method...
mark the outside position of the mortise. include the centerline.....
hog out the bulk of the mortise with a 7/8" spade bit...
set your router guide so that the bit cuts to the outside line of the mortise on one edge...
plunge the bit...
clean the roughed in mortise up one side... (push the router away from you)..
then turn the router around so that it's set to trim the opposing side and cut down.. (pull the router to you)..
the jig method...
you could make make a perfect rectangle to size in a piece of scrap, clamp it to your 4x4 and use a top bearing straight bit of 1/2" dia or so...
the time gain comes from hogging out the waste...
Do you mean a 1" wide groove x 1" long of undefined depth or do you mean a 1" wide groove x 1" deep the length of the post?
Hi Charles, I want to cut 6 horizontal groves or dado's into a 4x4 railing post (14 posts actually) the groves will be 4 inches apart. The depth is 3/4 of an inch and the height is 1.25 inch. I was working on it today using a 3/4 bit I guess using a 1.25 bit would get the job done quicker? With the 3/4 Bit I have to set up 2 guide rails, make 2 passes after each depth adj. Can you use that wide a bit? I am only adjusting the bit depth 3 times. But I did clamp 2 posts together to speed things up. I can't figure out how to make a jig with the cuts being so close together? Thanks
If you were going lengthways I would agree with Stick, use the TS and a dado stack but it's very hard to push a post sideways across a table without binding. I would probably use guide rails just like you are but I would cut some free hand grooves almost to depth with a circular saw first just a little short of full depth and inside the lines at least 1/8". Then I would take a chisel and snap off the pieces between the cuts. Then use the router to full depth to finish the groove. In the long run that way is just as fast or faster and much easier on the bit and router. You could use a 1.25 straight bit if you want, especially if you hog out the waste first as suggested.
There's no reason why you can't use multiple guide rails on your jig. Just attach them to a runner that sits on the side of the post(s) that is thick enough that you can cut the 3/4" deep groove in it and still have enough meat left to keep the guide rails stable. I'm just guessing, but I think you are using the guide rails to butt the router against. If you use a pattern bit instead you can make the jig with as many groove guides as you want. Template Bits - Lee Valley Tools The advantage of making your jig this way is that every set of grooves on each post will be identical.
There's no reason why you can't use multiple guide rails on your jig. Just attach them to a runner that sits on the side of the post(s) that is thick enough that you can cut the 3/4" deep groove in it and still have enough meat left to keep the guide rails stable. I'm just guessing, but I think you are using the guide rails to butt the router against. If you use a pattern bit instead you can make the jig with as many groove guides as you want. Template Bits - Lee Valley Tools The advantage of making your jig this way is that every set of grooves on each post will be identical.
Not sure I know what your up to but here what I would do
https://m.youtube.com/watch?autoplay=1&v=KNX9Y2cyRhk
https://m.youtube.com/watch?autoplay=1&v=KNX9Y2cyRhk
hog out the waste and then use one of these and the top bearing pilot bits...
a simple speed square and a circular saw and a little careful cutting should be all you need to for the initial... also there's the spade bit done with over lapping holes...
hog out enough material and you can finish the dado with your router with a single setting..
radial arm saw with a dado cutter is another plan...
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/204/adjustabledadojig.pdf
139 – Exact-Width Dado Jig | The Wood Whisperer
Exact-Width Dado Jig
Skill Builder: Dado Joinery on the Router | Articles | Woodworkers Journal
a simple speed square and a circular saw and a little careful cutting should be all you need to for the initial... also there's the spade bit done with over lapping holes...
hog out enough material and you can finish the dado with your router with a single setting..
radial arm saw with a dado cutter is another plan...
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/204/adjustabledadojig.pdf
139 – Exact-Width Dado Jig | The Wood Whisperer
Exact-Width Dado Jig
Skill Builder: Dado Joinery on the Router | Articles | Woodworkers Journal
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