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Jig to Install 4X8 Sheets to Ceiling

20K views 33 replies 21 participants last post by  Herb Stoops  
#1 ·
Hi Y'all,
I've been busy putting up 4' X 8' X 7/16" sheets of OSB for a ceiling in my shop. It's sturdy and cheap; and I don't mind the look for the application. But the stuff is HEAVY. About 50 pounds per sheet. My plan is to blow fiberglass installation over the ceiling when it's done. The install is complicated by several factors:
1. My foolish pride insisted that I use whole sheets. No cutting sheets into smaller pieces to make the job easier.
2. My workbench and machines are hard-wired, not mobile, and too heavy to move alone. I needed to work over the top of my machines.
3. The scissor truss roof construction means not even a crawl space will exist in the attic after the install. Light wiring and pneumatic plumbing must be installed through the ceiling as I go. This factor slows down the install too much to make renting a panel lift practical. Besides, the machines are in the way.

Necessity being the mother of invention, I built a hinged rack which I screwed to the underside of the trusses. I can lift the sheet on edge, place it onto the rack, and then swing the sheet up against the trusses by means of a rope and pulley. The sheet is held there just below the trusses while I slide it around into position and start the first screws.

I'm sure someone else already came up with this idea, but I've never seen it done this way. I thought a few pictures might help someone with their install.
 

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#3 ·
The ones I used to use when drywalling were called deadmen and not so elaborate. A couple 2X4s nailed in a "T" shape, get the sheet close then wedge the DM under it. Wiggle the sheet in place then set enough screws to keep it there and go on to the next sheet. I set shtrk in a couple rms at an inn with 10' ceilings by myself. A couple steps a plank 2 DMs and a holstered drywall drill driver and a mouthful of screws.
 
#7 ·
I've seen that method, but I couldn't figure out how to get the sheet up to the ceiling by myself. I'm not as strong as I used to be. Plus, starting screws in OSB one-handed while on a ladder in a strain isn't fun anymore. I did find a magnetic bit holder by Makita that works better than anything I've ever seen before. Instead of just magnetizing the bit, a magnetic washer holds the RIM of the screw head. Sucks it down tight and doesn't let it wobble. Highly recommend if you have to drive a lot of screws. Only 4 bucks at the big orange box store.
 
#4 ·
Andy that's a very unique way of addressing this . Question though , I thought you should have stapled up a layer of vapour barrior prior to covering the studs with this osb , same goes for drywall
 
#8 ·
I thought about installing a vapor barrier. Did some research and decided it's not necessary here.
1. Mild winter temps in the deep south mean the temperature differential isn't enough to cause condensation in the attic.
2. I have soffit vents and ridge vents to ventilate the attic.
3. I have no major producers of moisture inside the shop (shower, cook stove, humidifier, clothes dryer.
 
#6 ·
I usually temporarily screw a couple or three cleats along the edge that I'm working up to. Then I can pop the long edge onto the cleats before swing the othe side up to the ceiling...then the 'T' braces jammed in under the unsupported side.
But great solution, Andy.
Not clear on why you didn't use drywall, but to each their own. :)
 
#9 ·
1. I hate messing with drywall.
2. I hate messing with drywall.
3. I like to hang things (air hose, cord reel, etc.) from the ceiling. I can screw a hook into the OSB anywhere I want.
4. OSB is tougher when I hit the ceiling with the errant end of a board.

I guess that's why they make chocolate and vanilla.
 
#10 ·
Awesome solution and thank you for including the pics. I have a 1700 sqft shop I need to do something similar that has been languishing for 2 years as I can't find helpers. Fortunately it's only a 7' ceilng and I'm tall, so I won't need a ladder. Thanks for sharing this, I will be copying your clever solution-the pics are great. I also now will probably do osb. Being able to hang some things from above and attach anywhere is a significant advantage. I hadn't thought of that. I may now also do the walls in it too. I had thought about it there.

Great ideas in our forum-I am constantly learning to think differently and outside of the box-! Thanks
 
#18 ·
I'd kill for 1700 square feet. I've got 480 and bursting at the seams. I'm threatening to add on, but too many other projects ahead of it. I couldn't find any helpers either. Sure friends would be willing to drop in for a few hours, but the wiring and plumbing made it slow and tedious. I have 10 light fixtures and 2 air pipes in the ceiling.

Notice that the rack is as light as I could make it because I had to hold it up to the truss with one hand and drive the first screw with the other. That is, until I learned to use a quick-grip clamp as a hook and then ratcheted it up against the truss.

7/16 OSB is less than $8 per sheet at the big orange box, making for a cheap fix.
 
#23 ·
I guess you didn't read the part where I listed the reasons I elected not to use a drywall lift. Thanks for the offer though.
 
#15 ·
I've used the deadman too but as I've gotten older (and weaker) I would run down to the local rental shop and rent a lift made for such operations. All the modern stuff today's carpenters have spoils you. In my youth we didn't have lifts, stilts for Sheetrock, air nailer's and such. I always hated driving nails overhead. Your solution is a good idea and probably cheaper.
 
#20 ·
I had planned to do the garage with a lift, have someone else do it (too heavy for me), and use sheet rock. But your idea about using osb is really great! I think I'll put a hatch in for the blow in insulation and access for wiring. Great solution for some really heavy stock.
 
#27 ·
More Details

Someone PM'd me asking for more details. I couldn't figure out how to add attachments to PM's so I'm posting here. See the attachment if you're interested.
 

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#30 ·
Way Cool!
And built by none other than Rube Goldberg himself I'm sure. I wonder why he didn't use a simple scissor lift design?